• I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...

heat transfer problem help!

Jackpine

New Member
Just a though do you have the heat turn off on the drier. it it might start the heat transfer proses.
good luck Dave
I printed by the steps recommended by Material Specialties and got terrible results. The ink puddled and the colors were dark. I set heaters at 35 and 35 and print high quality 720X720 and got excellent results using a gloss vinyl profile and reduced the ink limits 10%
 

Tony McD

New Member
Chopper...something similar happened to me a few weeks ago.
It printed ok, but wouldn't come off the backing paper.

Come to find out, they sent me the wrong material.
( think it was for a thermal resin printer )

Might not be your problem, but make sure you got the CPS2160 material.
 
Having the same problem. The backing would tear when removing, sometimes at the contour cut ( which means cutting to deep ) most of the time it would tear in the middle of the graphic.
I made the adjustments mentioned on this thread, heater settings and cutting depth.
Still would tear into shreds behind the graphic.
I contacted Siser and tech confirmed it was probably a bad roll and they would replace it.
I purchased a new roll and will be trying it this morning to see if it works.
As far as the transfer tape I was told the reason to use the "siser colorprint mask" was it won't leave any residue. I have only used regular high tack main tape and it worked ok and didn't leave any residue. It was a little difficult and sometimes would pull a small crease into the graphic but I am not sure if it was the the mask or just the colorprint II problem.
Hope this helps.
 

MITCHATEXOTIC

New Member
Surprise

We use a lot of that material. but the problem actually lies in the nature of your machine(my opinion based on experience),Since your machine is a print and cut the solvent from the inks are effecting your backing material..If you use a seperat printer and cutter you need to let the print "dry" a little before you cut it.underneath the silicone, if 'what it is, is just paper so when the paper gets wet with solvent it tends to break down easier.Hope this helps.This doesn't happen every time I think it depends on the satuation
 
From my testing so far I think it does appear to be the solvent ink breaking down the backing. I have tested seperate rolls, cooler settings on the printer heater and less force on contour cuts.
The only time I have got the backing to release cleanly is after letting the print sit as long as overnight. I tried four to six hours as recommended and still had problems.
I didn't seem to matter if I contour cut before or after dry time as long as I let it dry overnight.
I still believe the first roll was defective as it would still tear after drying, just not as bad.
Still have some more prints to try out but I am going with the extended dry time as the cure so far.

mutoh valujet with eco-solvent inks
 
Still getting some tears, tried drying overnight with heater settings at original temp.
Maybe it's a combination of too much heat and not enough dry time?
 

sghobbies

New Member
I have had problems with the same product. Probably more problems than not. I have even tried printing with the heater off and the ink turned down to 60 percent. The backing still seems to stick to the colorprint.
 

jfiscus

Rap Master
same problems here intermittently with bad rolls, was always able to get the stuck backer off with some determination though, not sure if the heater settings on the printer have anything to do with it or not.

I just did 4 shirts this morning with the heat on & no trouble releasing. it does not matter how the graphics are cut either, as it is not a problem with the edges for me but mostly in the middle of the image or random small 4" square areas.

Call your rep & tell them you got a bad roll.
 

flyinhawaiian968

New Member
Heh, their still having these issues, eh? Here's the problem with the material...

The solvent ink breaks down the backing paper and you end up with the backing paper shredding and most of it sticking to the backside of the transfer. Its usually more prominent where there's heavier ink laid down. Heat from your printer/cutter does not make it any better or worse, I've done it with no heat and max heat, there's zero difference in how the transfer peels off of the backing paper. Masks don't matter either, as I've tried clear, paper and Siser's own brand, they all still really well to the backing paper where you've contour-cut your design and weeded away the material. Even the depth of cutting doesn't matter, as I had an 11" round transfer to do and it weeded just fine, the edges peeled up nicely, but as I got to the center of the decal it started getting stuck to the backing paper.



The only (and I mean ONLY!!!) way to salvage your transfers is to let them dry for 3 to 10 days. I had well over 50 transfers that would not come off the backing paper for the first 3 days, but a week later they almost fell off with no problem!

I was so desperate to get these to work (of course this always happens on a weekend when my supplier is closed!), I tried using alcohol to remove the backing paper shreds from the transfer-that didn't work. I tried water, soapy water, even orange peel, nothing took it off. Amazing enough though, the pile of damaged transfers were easily removed from the damaged backing paper just a week or so later! Just used a weeding tool to get an edge started and it peeled right off in one piece!

I found that the 24" rolls were much worse than the 15" rolls, and I tried working with Siser on this issue last summer, I got every excuse they could come up with, of course none of their own fault! They finally, after a bit of badgering by my local sign supply warehouse and me, credited us the cost of the 24" roll. I then bought 2 15" rolls and had much less of a problem. There were no differences in the way I printed the transfers on my XC-540 machine (always with genuine Roland ink, perhaps that's the problem?), both the 24" file and the 15" file were identical except for spacing between the logos printed.

I mentioned to the lady I talked to that maybe they should try using the clear acetate backing for this material that they use for the easyweed material, guess that fell on deaf ears. I don't know if that would prevent the transfer from outgassing, which is definitely the issue here, but as it stands now, waiting a week to do transfers is really not a fix to the problem.

Hope y'all have better luck with their materials now. Its a great product and transfers well with a long life, but their backing paper sucks horribly! I've discontinued doing any more colored transfers this way until I see some positive responses on this issue.

Chris
 

Precision Eng

New Member
Try the Express Print from Stahls and I think you'll be amazed. Did some testing with it the other day and it looks just like screen printing...and on a black shirt. Super soft hand feel.

Mike
 

Attachments

  • mikeytee_expressprint_small.jpg
    mikeytee_expressprint_small.jpg
    235.9 KB · Views: 115
A new shape blade is key to getting the stuff to cut.


A HEAD UP.. I have issues with clear mask. The adhesive wanted to also transfer to the shirt. Which made quite a mess..

PAPER MASK WORKS BEST
 
Top