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How can I make it stick???

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GypsyGraphics

New Member
Normally, I'd avoid putting graphics on fiberglass but ...
I'm getting ready to put a body kit on a car that I'll be wrapping and I'm concerned about the vinyl adhesion to the fiberglass bumpers. The vinyl is Oracal 970 RA, no printing, flat back, prelaminated.

Can I just use an adhesive primer or do I need to paint the fiberglass parts and also use an adhesive primer. Are some adhesive primers better on fiberglass than others?

My husband thinks I'm crazy for attempting to install the kit myself and he's probably right but I'm gonna have fun trying... anything that gives me an excuse to buy a cool tool. If it turns out to be more than I can handle, I'll take it to a body shop. At least I'll have this neat little contour gauge I bought to help me with getting the shape right.

I'm expecting the "you don't know what the hell your doing lady" comments but after you lay into me, I'd still be happy to hear your advise.
 
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LindyM

New Member
I dont see why sticking would be a problem. I have wrapped many drift cars with unpainted kits. the top is actually a gel coat not the fiberglass itself. The only time you would have sticking issues is with a urethane body kit since they use a releasing agent to pop out of the molds.
 
letterman7

letterman7

New Member
LindyM said:
I dont see why sticking would be a problem. I have wrapped many drift cars with unpainted kits. the top is actually a gel coat not the fiberglass itself. The only time you would have sticking issues is with a urethane body kit since they use a releasing agent to pop out of the molds.
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Not entirely correct, but the chances of the ricer's drift kits being in raw form are pretty low. My guess is that it's simply black gel (or white gel) in which case there's no issue - simply clean and apply. The issue would be if the car for some reason had raw fiberglass bumpers - no gelcoat. It would be readily apparent; the smooth resin top would look translucent and either a tan or a green colot. BUT, again, that rarely happens - most parts have a protective gel topcoat, so go for it! Gelled fiberglass parts still have some mold release on them - clean it with alcohol and a good degreaser before you start.
 
letterman7

letterman7

New Member
LindyM said:
Ricers ? I highly disagree with a professional drift team to be ricers.
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Around here drift cars = ricer. I guess it depends on what part of the country you deal with. Since you're in Florida, you actually may have pro teams there...but I have yet to view drifting as a sport. Now...back to the subject at hand....
 
letterman7

letterman7

New Member
Not too often, but I have seen them. Usually a quick splash job of an existing set. I'm not bashing your drifting circuits, I just don't personally see it as a "sport".
 
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LindyM

New Member
Not talking about drifting anymore meng, Just saying in 15 years in the automotive biz I have never seen a kit without a gel coat.
 
letterman7

letterman7

New Member
Seems I've offended enough today, I'm stepping out of the thread. Isign...you're taking an awful big offense to what amounts to nothing at all. Look it up on Urban Dictionary...the term certainly doesn't stack against the "N" word. Even the drifters here refer to themselves as that "R" word.

The only way to be sure what the original poster is working with is to see a close up photo of the kit, but I think the bottom line is there is nothing to worry about so long as the proper prep is applied. Any molded kit, whether it's fiberglass, carbon fiber or urethane all use some sort of mold release that must be removed from the part in question.
 
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GypsyGraphics

New Member
Brian, I took one photo that show a section from a distance and one close up with light behind it so you could kind of see it's make up. I can take one outside in the daylight in the morning if that would help.

Thanks, GG!!!
 

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klemgraphics

New Member
Looks to me like it it gel coated and probably sanded. I think they do this to get rid of the shine as to not see imperfections as easily. Pretty cheap kit, and they usually need quite a bit of work to make them right as far as fitment and straightness. I think I would definitely get them fitted & painted by a reputable bodyshop first. Of course we do also own a bodyshop so to me anything less than a perfect fit (which an amature usually cannot achieve) is unacceptable. Not trying to say your not capable, just take your time and prepare to get frustrated. A word of warning too, be careful when removing bolts, use some pb blaster to soak them first as them cheapo toyota bolts like snap off.

Oh and what exactly is a contour gauge, never heard of that before?
 
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GypsyGraphics

New Member
klemgraphics said:
Not trying to say your not capable, just take your time and prepare to get frustrated.
Oh and what exactly is a contour gauge, never heard of that before?
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If I were putting money on it, I'd say "not capable," but I think it'd be fun to say I did it myself. I'll take my time, my husband will get frustrated watching me and then I'll call a body shop.

Here's a picture of my plastic couture gauge. I have a metal one too but it's only 6 inches and the pins will scratch most surfaces. I just grabbed the curvest thing in my office to show you what it does... ain't it cool.
 

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GypsyGraphics

New Member
signage said:
From the photos those look like they are gel coated! Have you tried to stick any vinyl on them?
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I tired a piece of 3551 RA, and it stuck. And by "stuck" I mean is it didn't fall off, but it defiantly didn't have the bite it should and came off too easily. But that's without doing anything to the fiberglass yet, no decreaser or alcohol. I didn't want to start messing with it till I got some input from you guys.
 
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