• I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...

How do I cut Max Metal?

Dr. Decal

New Member
I have recently started using MAX METAL from Grimco for outdoor signage. The first few signs were 4x8 so I didn't have to worry about cutting it down.

Idk if this MAX METAL product name is widely used as I can't find any previous posts about it here, but it is two sides of .15mm Aluminum bonded to a solid polyethylene core.

I usually cut my aluminum with a pair of electric shears, but these sheets are much thicker and won't cut well with that method. What the best way to cut this stuff to size?
 

DerbyCitySignGuy

New Member
I have recently started using MAX METAL from Grimco for outdoor signage. The first few signs were 4x8 so I didn't have to worry about cutting it down.

Idk if this MAX METAL product name is widely used as I can't find any previous posts about it here, but it is two sides of .15mm Aluminum bonded to a solid polyethylene core.

I usually cut my aluminum with a pair of electric shears, but these sheets are much thicker and won't cut well with that method. What the best way to cut this stuff to size?

It's ACM? Just score it with a razor knife and break it, run it through a panel saw, cut it with a track saw, there are a lot of ways to cut this stuff.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
It comes in various thicknesses so just about anyway you can cut a piece of wood, you can cut this substrate. Just be sure to let the saw do the cutting and don't force it through too fast. Also, wear eye protection as it's one thing to get a splinter or something from a piece of wood in your eye, but a metal splinter or shard is a whole nother story.
 
Last edited:

bob

It's better to have two hands than one glove.
Just treat the materiel as if it were wood. Or you can score it on one side then snap it over an edge like the edge of a table.

The former always works while the latter depends on how securely the material is held down and how briskly it is snapped.
 

Johnny Best

Active Member
As others have said, any woodworking tool such as a tablesaw, Skillsaw and jigsaw. I use a tracksaw that leaves a clean edge and is very accurate.
 

Dr. Decal

New Member
Thanks for the information everyone. I tried the score/break method, and while it works it was pretty tough to get through, especially for large orders of small signs. I will try a saw later today.

I think I am definitely going to offer this substrate over the .40 aluminum panels we have used in the past. Seems to be a superior product.
 

dubhcaora

New Member
+1 for a Table Saw. If your shop does not have one you need one or will need one soon. If you do not have the funds for it you can get by with a good old skill saw with a board and clamps. If you get a bit of a jagged edge you can always file them down and go get your blades sharpened/replaced.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Our supplier will cut them down to any size we want for an extra $5 a panel, whether you have 1 cut or 50 cuts. It comes in handy as we just put it right on the flatbed and we're done in minutes. Even though were have several saws, cutting machines and whatnot, we can't cut them all for $5. Check into your supplier or find one that offers this service.
 

Bradley Signs

Bradley Signs
I get a product from Reese Supply called Compbond, about $38 duckies for a 4x8. It does scratch, nick and bend very easily...
 

10sacer

New Member
Keencut SteelTrak Vertical Substrate Cutters

I have one of these. Has twin roller blades that cut aluminum composite panel like butter.
Well worth the investment. Mine is freestanding, but you can also do wall mount.
Cuts PVC, coroplast, foambaord - anything you can cut with a knife. Also scores acrylic and glass.
 

Attachments

  • keencut-steeltrak-vertical-substrate-cutters-4eb.jpg
    keencut-steeltrak-vertical-substrate-cutters-4eb.jpg
    18.9 KB · Views: 528

gabagoo

New Member
Not trying to thread hijack, but curious about all these different composite aluminum suppliers. Some have a 10 year warranty others have a 5 year...Max Metal I have no idea but because it is cheap I have my suspicions. But more out of curiousity has anyone ever seen this stuff fail? What happens to it?
 

2B

Active Member
ACM is a great material and we use it on a daily bases for a WIDE range of uses.

the scoring and break is easy to do with practice, you will need to go back and clean the edges though.

the track saw leave a finished edge when you use a fine finishing blade.
we also use a track attachment for our saw
Kreg Rip-Cut Circular Saw Guide (KMA2675) | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware
be aware this method sends debris EVERYWHERE and that black core statically charged so it stick

recently we got a Keencut SteelTrak Vertical Substrate Cutters from Grimco, the rep was Jason Pfeffer got a great price and it has been very helpful

we get our ACM from N Glantz, think it is called BeBond Premium it has a thicker skin of aluminum so it is more rigid than the Max Metal
 

DerbyCitySignGuy

New Member
Not trying to thread hijack, but curious about all these different composite aluminum suppliers. Some have a 10 year warranty others have a 5 year...Max Metal I have no idea but because it is cheap I have my suspicions. But more out of curiousity has anyone ever seen this stuff fail? What happens to it?

Most of my experience has been with Dibond and I've never seen it catastrophically fail. The worst I've seen is the PE center fade to a grayish color.
 

10sacer

New Member
Not trying to thread hijack, but curious about all these different composite aluminum suppliers. Some have a 10 year warranty others have a 5 year...Max Metal I have no idea but because it is cheap I have my suspicions. But more out of curiousity has anyone ever seen this stuff fail? What happens to it?


You have to test the stuff with your printer/ink combo and depends on your end use. i have gotten some cheap Chinese stuff that printed fine, but when you went to cut it - it would flake the actual aluminum off. Have also had some that when you bend it would crack the aluminum instead of bending it cleanly. I assume thats just the coating over the aluminum that is cracking but not sure. Have also had some that uses a cheaper PVC core and if used outside will warp beyond all get out.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Not trying to thread hijack, but curious about all these different composite aluminum suppliers. Some have a 10 year warranty others have a 5 year...Max Metal I have no idea but because it is cheap I have my suspicions. But more out of curiousity has anyone ever seen this stuff fail? What happens to it?


10 year warranty as to/for what ??
  • Against delaminating ??
  • Against discoloration ??
  • Against defects ??
  • Against deterioration ??
  • Against all weather conditions ??

That's a rather broad statement on their part, if ya ask me.
 

eahicks

Magna Cum Laude - School of Hard Knocks
Max Metal is cheap...and I mean quality wise too. We quit using it because running through a laminator to mount prints, or even moving it around, it would bend and the bend would not straighten out. We do not have this issue with actual Di-Bond brand. Yes it costs a little more, but worth not having to mess with warped sheets.
 
Last edited:
Top