How to glue coroplast together?

[wedosigns]

Does anyone have any suggestions on what to use to glue coroplast together?
Thanks Bruce

 

[parrott]

Use silicone 1 (or is it 2?). There is a specific one that works. I can tell you locktite does not work.

 

[oldgoatroper]

SignManiac would probably have some pretty good input on this subject....

 

[SignosaurusRex]

How are you using the coro and in what configuration are you needing to glue? Exposure and life expectancy is another consideration. In some cases we use Hot glue gun with a glue stick compound / heat setting compatible to the project needs, sometimes a D/S membrane tape, sometimes a liquid or gel base, sometimes a caulk gun / tube type.

 

[wedosigns]

Ok, what I am doing is making some a-frames out of 10 mil coro. At the top is where 2 pieces attach to form the handle and hinge.
I do appreciate the input on the silicone, but I do not trust silicone to last longer than the bank takes to clear the check.
I installed residential windows in the past life, lol. I am used to using thermoplastic caulking, which is like an elastic when dried, but will melt coro. Any silicone I have used will last 2-6 weeks before giving up.
I have read that I have to torch the coro to take off some layer of chemical that is applied at the factory. I have not tried to torch it yet, but need to know what type of glue to apply.
The area I am trying to fuse together is 3" tall by 24" wide.
I do need it to last as it is a very good customer, where I am able to use one of his two bays ANYTIME to apply wraps.
Thanks for the input!
Bruce

 

[SignManiac]

VHB tape between the hinge and face of your coro would be my suggestion

 

[SignProPlus-Chip]

Since coroplast is polypropylene it is difficult to glue. However Loctite has the answer for you.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/sg_plstc/overview/Loctite-Plastics-Bonding-System.htm

It works incredibly well. So much so that I'm pretty sure if you try it, you'll never use anything else to bond coroplast.

 

[Pat Whatley]

Any silicone I have used will last 2-6 weeks before giving up.

After gluing together thousands and thousands and thousands of real estate signs when we had our screenprinting shop open and we always used Silicone 1. Never had an order come back because the signs came apart and believe me, realtors dang sure would have let us know. I've never heard of torching coro....we'd just grab a stack, print them and glue them.

 

[FireSprint.com]

I have read that I have to torch the coro to take off some layer of chemical that is applied at the factory. I have not tried to torch it yet, but need to know what type of glue to apply.
Bruce

You're probably talking about corona treating the surface. It raises the dyne level (a way of measuring the surface tension of plastic).

We'll flame the surface of older plastic before we print on it if it has been sitting in the shop for a while. This helps with adhesion of ink and furthermore would probably help with the adhesion of adhesives in theory.

To answer your question, we always used double sided tape like VBH.

 

[GAC05]

Not tired it myself but one professional sticker maker recommended wheat glue in graphics production.......

 

[Gino]

Also, after gluing thousands of stands, easels and other Cor-X to Cor-X for whatever reason.... double sided tape works fine and so does the hot glue gun. Never had an issue, unless we put them on crooked.

 

[Signed Out]

never have tried it for coro but plumbers goop is some good ****

 

[Mosh]

+3M vhb tape

 

[wedosigns]

Thanks for the ideas!
I am going to go with the double sided tape, no smell, no drying times, and I got lots of it, lol.
Thanks guys!
Bruce

 

[slappy]

i've always used double sided banner tape with success

 

[Aero Signs]

3M's Scotch-Weld™ Structural Plastic Adhesive DP-8005Attach files

 

[Billct2]

Wow, zombie thread, lots of familiar and some long gone faces.
We use cheap dbl stick foam tape.

 

[d fleming]

Stack them before the ink is dry after printing, you'll never get them apart, lol