I print similar materials, head crashed are very rare, most of the time the lamp hits before the head carriage. I had maybe 1-2 times when the material touches the actual heads, the other times the machine stops as soon as the carriage touches
Yes we understand that, the reason why we bring this up is cos we had a 315 and 310... and those printer were like tanks... how many ever times we had media crashes, the ph keep running with no visible color inconsistencies. It was like nothing even happened to them.I would say that this depends a lot on the print speed and, generaly said, any media crash, no matter what the print media is, can potentially damage the ph. But this question is a bit like how bad you will be injured if a car hits you when you cross the street. And whatever answer you get you will still cross the streets
In my experience the media crashes I have with the 1650 for a year I can easily achieve in less than a week with the Latex 800. The print carriage is build so that there are mirors on both sides, then comes the metal plate arround the ph and this gives you about 150mm (hello form Europe
) on each side from far left/right edge of the carriage to the nearest located ph. I remember only one really bad crash which left me some white hair (on my beard), but eventually all the nozzles were back after some time with intensive printing. So it is not among the things that really bother me when talking about 1650.did u mean colorado color consistency is better than hp latex as i have one latex L570. sometimes got color matching problem while printing same design that require more than 100pcs. when i complaint to technicians, they always ask me to change printhead,change this change that in order to keep color consistent . they would suggest me to change all printhead when we star to print a big job with same design.
Yes you get the same exact colors on the colorado. Disposable thermal heads on hp latex vs much longer life piezoelectric on colorado
it prints a great black in gloss mode.... and if you use the most recent profile for more difficult media like cast you should get a great black in matte mode. they published a new profile a few weeks ago and several of my customers are thrilledHi Shariff.
I don't think you should bother about the ph, especially if you are buying a new machine. This thing is build to last. I believe that when the time for ph replacement comes they will have paid off. One thing you should consider is that every time you put fresh ink in the machine it takes its date of expire plus the one of the ink you have in the system and calculates another one that differs from what you have on the ink label. My advice is not to overstock with ink because you might end up with ink containters which you can't use.
I am operating with both, Latex 800W and Colorado 1650, for a bit over 2 years and I am facing the machines' differences on a daily basis. I would describe the HP's build quality as mediocre. But it works...somehow. The 1650, on the other hand, might easily outlive this and probably the next two Latex generations
Regarding the mismatch you talk about, you will not have that problem with the 1650. When we talk about large prints splitted in several places the size match is astonishing. Also not to forget - no color distortions thanks to the stable environment under the hood.
So, for wallprints, I think, the 1650 would be a very good choise.
yes the heads are more expensive but they are dramatically more consistent and they may for years. most of my customers are well past 1M sf before any heads die of natural causes. By consistent color I mean that the red you printed 6 months ago and the one you print today pretty much match. lastly the ink savings are significant
We just sold our 800W and all of our wraps are printed on our 1650's. I posted pics of 1 piece semi fender wraps we did with them.
I don't have a 570, but I have other HP Latexs. You shouldn't have to constantly change heads on the latex to get consistent colors. You should only need to calibrate on the Latex every time you do change a head. As long as all your heads are in warranty and firing well, running calibrations should be all you need. We usually run them every time we change a head, before we run vehicle wraps, and before we run a big job (more than a roll).
I have a 700w and a 365. What fixed the panel problems was to print one panel at a time and let it finish curing, then send over the next panel. If I print them all in a row I get up to 1" difference. This way they are almost perfect. FYI, I just bought an Epson S80600L because I have other issues with my HP printers. But this fixed the panel problem for me.