Hello there, I am trying to get my printer up and running. Little background I changed my magenta ink box out prob two weeks ago. Everything was running fine until about a week after. I started getting an error message saying my magenta printhead is empty. With a printhead error it won't allow you to print anything. So I started checking everything, I have checked the magenta ink lines, there is ink past both of the filters. I primed the ink pump and felt it running good. After that I saw it could be a bad thermistor, bought one of those and replaced it, making sure that the O-ring was installed correctly. I did notice a little ink in the reservoir when I did this. After this I figured it would work, I go to the fill printhead procedure, and it tells me again it can't fill the printhead. Specifically it tells me the magenta reservoir cannot be filled. At this point I'm not for sure what to do, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all
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HP Scitex FB550 Magenta Head wont fill
- Thread starter DJAvocado
- Start date
sonnyphoto
Premium Subscriber
Can you please post a video.
Lucid1303
New Member
It could also be a pressure issue. If there's a compromise anywhere in the system it could think its outputting more ink than it actually is due to the pressure seeping out somewhere. Also it could be a faulty pump. I know the FB500 uses one pump for all colors but you could be experiencing issues early with the magenta line bc it was lower than the others. But i'd verify that the line, sensors, and valves for the magenta track is all good before expanding outside of that. The 3 sensors I would test first would be the Ink Resevoir Pressure Sensor, System Pressure Sensor and the Resevoir Level Sensor.
Thank you for the response, I gave up on it for the moment just needed a break. Gonna check those three sensors once I start messing with it again.
Same exact thing happened to me recently on my FB700 with yellow ink. Replaced a pump, filters twice, thermistor, and it started working when we changed ink manufacturers. Tech I talk to thinks it’s bad ink, not viscous enough. Ink manufacturer claims “it’s all within tolerance” after we went back two partial boxes for testing. Hard to tell what the fix was because we did so many things but I feel like it was the ink. I spent so many hours trying to find/fix the issue. What ink are you using?
From everything I've done Im starting to think the ink is bad as well. Atm I am using budget inks, haven't ever had problems with it before but all this happened about a week after changing ink box. I've contacted them and they "assured" me that the batch was up to code. Couldn't get them to even send me one box to try, with me willing to send old box back. I've replaced the thermistors and ink pump.
Lucid1303
New Member
yeh i wanted to mention this before but forgot to lol. Just bc you ran the machine for a week after changing your ink to the new box doesnt mean it was running from the new box. Depending how low it was when you changed it out, what was in there could be residual ink in the res. and line from the previous box. So yeh bad ink is another good culprit. We've been using Nazdar 705 inks in our FB500 for about 3 years now and love it. Just remember if you swap manufacturers to double check your colors after printing.
I am having this problem with the Lt Cyan. I am having the same issue. Swapped printheads and it didn't fix the issue. I am ordering a new box of ink to try and fix it. I do have a question. We don't print with the Lt. Cyan or Lt Magenta. Is there a way that I don't even have to have the colors installed at all? Seems like with all the sensors, if I didn't have the ink loaded anyway, that the machine would not be happy and work.
Also, needing to replace the encoder strip soon. Has anyone done this before? I am being told by a tech that it is very difficult to get all the double stick tape off and to put the new one and get the strip totally flat and straight. Unfortunately, it is very expensive to get a tech to my location due to the travel so I do most replacement myself. Plus there seems to always be something to fix/replace and it is a minimum of $2K to get them here. Unfortunately, there are no instructions in the service manual for the encoder strip replacement. He gave me a few tips verbally, but mentioned that it is very difficult so thought I would ask the DIY crowd. I also wasn't clear if the tape removal is all after I get the metal strip out or if there is tape left in that small groove that I have to get out somehow. TIA
Also, needing to replace the encoder strip soon. Has anyone done this before? I am being told by a tech that it is very difficult to get all the double stick tape off and to put the new one and get the strip totally flat and straight. Unfortunately, it is very expensive to get a tech to my location due to the travel so I do most replacement myself. Plus there seems to always be something to fix/replace and it is a minimum of $2K to get them here. Unfortunately, there are no instructions in the service manual for the encoder strip replacement. He gave me a few tips verbally, but mentioned that it is very difficult so thought I would ask the DIY crowd. I also wasn't clear if the tape removal is all after I get the metal strip out or if there is tape left in that small groove that I have to get out somehow. TIA
I might be mistaken but I think you are printing with LM and LC whether you want to/think you are or not. If the machine is setup for LM/LC then it's going to take those inks into account when building a color. We run white so we don't use LM/LC but that just means my color gamut is narrower than machines using LM/LC. I guess if you built custom profiles for everything you could probably get around using it but why would you want to if all it's doing is widening your color gamut? If you are using canned profiles, then you are definitely using it (when needed to build a certain color).