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Install Large Graphics Solo

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schlimmerkerl

New Member
Looking for tips to install large (54˝ x 36˝) calendared vinyl graphics, bubble/wrinkle-free, on windows. Sometimes I'm without an assistant (it ain't that easy, even then). I usually peel back the first inch or so of backing, adhere that (dry), and peel the rest of the backing about a foot at a time and soak the material and window, burnishing as we go.

The assistant is holding the material up while I squirt/peel/burnish. Even with help, I've still gotten some wrinkles— especially at the end. Tips for doing this solo, or even a better job with help, much appreciated.
 
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signguy 55

New Member
I recently installed Oracal 651 vinyl on some storefront windows. Vinyl panels that I applied were 24" x 96". Customer wanted to black out the windows.

I used soapy water. Laid the vinyl face down on a board across two sawhorses, pulled the release liner off as I soaked the vinyl every foot or so. Even if the wind blows and the vinyl touches itself it won't stick together.

I also soaked the glass. I laid the vinyl on the glass and used a felt squeeqee, I had no wrinkles. Vinyl went on easy and smooth. It's the same principal as window tinters use, just squeegee out all the liquid. I couldn't imagine doing that job dry.
 
HulkSmash

HulkSmash

New Member
Line up, measure, make sure it's even and straight, Tape in all 4 corners, then one across the middle, to make a "Hinge." The peel the top half first, cut the backing paper, and apply using horizontal even strokes. Remove the center "Hinge" that's taped, and do the same for the bottom half. Why people install graphics wet is beyond me.
 
bob

bob

It's better to have two hands than one glove.
schlimmerkerl said:
Looking for tips to install large (54˝ x 36˝) calendared vinyl graphics, bubble/wrinkle-free, on windows. Sometimes I'm without an assistant (it ain't that easy, even then). I usually peel back the first inch or so of backing, adhere that (dry), and peel the rest of the backing about a foot at a time and soak the material and window, burnishing as we go.

The assistant is holding the material up while I squirt/peel/burnish. Even with help, I've still gotten some wrinkles— especially at the end. Tips for doing this solo, or even a better job with help, much appreciated.
Click to expand...

This sounds very much like you're trying to install the vinyl unmasked. While you might get away with it, perhaps the vaudvillesque wetting and peeling you describe might do something for you, you're still just getting away with it.

Mask it, hinge it, apply it. Dry. All by yourself. If you can't do that without wrinkles and bubbles you're probably not ready to hang out your shingle.

While the tool can be handy doing flat work, Leave the big squeegee at home when you're doing vertical installations, it's far more trouble than it's worth in these situations.

Just this Tuesday I did an ~4'x5' image on window for a local business. Masked it, hinged it, applied it. All by myself, dry, in the wind, with no bubbles, no wrinkles.
 
wildside

wildside

New Member
Coloradosigns said:
Line up, measure, make sure it's even and straight, Tape in all 4 corners, then one across the middle, to make a "Hinge." The peel the top half first, cut the backing paper, and apply using horizontal even strokes. Remove the center "Hinge" that's taped, and do the same for the bottom half. Why people install graphics wet is beyond me.
Click to expand...

:goodpost:

the graphic size you are describing is not "large" by any means and like bob just said, it sounds like you are laying vinyl without premask, that would be the first issue here....
 
C

CanuckSigns

Active Member
If the thought of doing this dry makes you nervous, look into using a vinyl with air release, it makes these things much easier.
 
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signguy 55

New Member
I love it when people tell me the way I've been doing for 20+ years is wrong and I need to be in another business.

As long as the end result is the same, what's the difference?
 
Gino

Gino

Premium Subscriber
signguy 55 said:
I love it when people tell me the way I've been doing for 20+ years is wrong and I need to be in another business.

As long as the end result is the same, what's the difference?
Click to expand...

Pretty much my theory.

Dry, wet, premask or not..... practice will make you better. Use all the tools you can and start eliminating the ones you find cumbersome. As long as it goes down without a wrinkle..... you're fine.

Agreed, this isn't large, but everyone has to start somewhere........ :rolleyes:
​
 
Circleville Signs

Circleville Signs

New Member
signguy 55 said:
I love it when people tell me the way I've been doing for 20+ years is wrong and I need to be in another business.

As long as the end result is the same, what's the difference?
Click to expand...

There is no difference to the customer - just to your pocketbook and quality of life. If you are happy with both of those, knowing you could do the job faster and more efficiently in a different manner, then more power to ya!
 
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Sign Up Graphics

New Member
Sign Up Graphics

Just installed dry Oracal 651 vinyl on 10 windows 45'' x 90''

Practice + Practice + Fun :thumb:
 

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2B

2B

Active Member
Sign Up Graphics said:
Just installed dry Oracal 651 vinyl on 10 windows 45'' x 90''

Practice + Practice + Fun :thumb:
Click to expand...

correct me if I'm wrong but 651 is cut vinyl, did you print onto it?

If so why? was there that much of a price difference for you not to use a printable media?
 
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Sign Up Graphics

New Member
Sign Up Graphics

2B said:
correct me if I'm wrong but 651 is cut vinyl, did you print onto it?

If so why? was there that much of a price difference for you not to use a printable media?
Click to expand...


Hey 2B,

I'm sorry for the wrong info.
Was printed on 2.5 mil Oracal orajet 3651 includes matching laminate. :thumb:
 
Sticky Signs

Sticky Signs

New Member
+1 what Colorado said.
here's a couple tricks that might make it even easier.
If the vinyl is very thin, run a piece of masking tape across the top edge. This will make it a little thicker and a little easier to handle.
Instead of running your hinge down the centre, run it about 1' below the top of the print. Peel back about the vinyl and cut off the top 4 or 5" of the liner. Carefully install that section making sure everything remains in place. Once you get that down, remove all the tape you used to secure the print. Now you can roll the print up (image side out) nice and tight. This gives you easy access to the release liner. Hold the roll in your left hand and squeegee with the right. Now you can pull back on the liner (about 1-2' at time) while sqeegeeing.
Hope that makes sense.
 
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