Installing a 4x6ft wood sign

[Texas_Signmaker]

cordless is that my problem?

 

[Fozkat]

In almost all cases, you'll need a permit. Many times the municipality will tell you what is needed.

For what you're describing, we'd go about 38" to 42" deep and if it's to be there more than 6 months, it gets cemented into the ground with about a 12" diameter hole. Many other things should be taken into consideration, but we don't have all your details.

42" is usually spec around my parts too. Our preferred method is to pour pilings and use plates to attach the timber.

 

[Moze]

I've tried a hammer drill in dry clay and it's like concrete...doesn't break up. I have a breaker bar on the truck and that's the only way I found

I use a cordless 1-9/16" rotary hammer with a Hilti clay spade bit (part number is pictured if interested). Works pretty well on the rocky stuff.

Also have the 1-7/8" rotary hammer that I may switch to. Bought it for a project and wound up not needing it and haven't decided whether to keep it or sell it. Here's the whole fam:

 

[netsol]

There's a great thread on here somewhere about the drill auger for post hole boring. I think it was started by Tex? Like others here I have to contend with extremely rocky soil. Digging two post holes is usually not an easy feat.

i think that post was moze
he and i had a disagreement about the 60volt cordless earth augers

that's because our part of new jersey was filled with rocks the size you used to see the lone ranger shooting from behind...

i realize some parts of the country have normal soil, i just never experienced it myself

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

I use a cordless 1-9/16" rotary hammer with a Hilti clay spade bit (part number is pictured if interested). Works pretty well on the rocky stuff.

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Also have the 1-7/8" rotary hammer that I may switch to. Bought it for a project and wound up not needing it and haven't decided whether to keep it or sell it. Here's the whole fam:

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I have the second one from the bottom .maybe that's why it's weak? The one on the top looks like an animal.

 

[Moze]

I have the second one from the bottom .maybe that's why it's weak? The one on the top looks like an animal.

Second one from the bottom is great for holes in concrete. How exactly are you using it to dig holes in dirt? With chisel bits or something?

The top two are more meant for dirt work, light demo work, etc.

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

Chizel bit. It's like pissin in the wind with that drill The top one looks like it could get the job done though.

 

[Moze]

Chizel bit. It's like pissin in the wind with that drill The top one looks like it could get the job done though.

Oh gees. I wouldn't dream of using that smaller one for any dirt work. The top two are meant for it though. I'd give you a good deal on one of the top two if interested. I would just need to figure out which one I want to part with.

 

[Pideas]

Here in VA we go 24" to 30" deep, depending on the height of the sign. It sounds like it will be relatively low to the ground. If you feel the need, use sonotubes, but a hole with concrete will suffice. This is just my opinion.

We went down about 30” and it worked fine.

 

[Moze]

These things run forever on batteries. I've drilled a few hundred holes with just a couple of batteries. Cords are dead. Just invest in a few good batteries.

I bought the small 20v one for more delicate materials like quartzite. There's also a 12v version which is slightly weaker that I'll likely get before the next quartzite/stacked stone install.

 

[Moze]

My problem is figuring out how hard to you have to beat your underlings to get them to keep batteries charged?

Ah....yeah, if you have employees, that could factor in to just staying with corded.

 

[Gino]

Just a thought, but if you're on a job and you have the generating already running, what's wrong using electric tools. I seriously believe in all cases the electric ones are stronger and last MUCH longer than batteries, so why waste your generator on charging batteries ?? We have a nice arsonal of battery powered tools, but they're primarily for smaller jobs. I have quite a few extra batteries, so I should never run dry, but for the most part, I tend to think the electric tools get the job done faster.

 

[Moze]

Just a thought, but if you're on a job and you have the generating already running, what's wrong using electric tools. I seriously believe in all cases the electric ones are stronger and last MUCH longer than batteries, so why waste your generator on charging batteries ?? We have a nice arsonal of battery powered tools, but they're primarily for smaller jobs. I have quite a few extra batteries, so I should never run dry, but for the most part, I tend to think the electric tools get the job done faster.

For my needs, I can't think of any install situation where I'd rather drag a cord around and have a generator running than having the portability of a cordless tool.

They may be stronger, but if they are, it's marginal and corded tools are typically heavier and more cumbersome than cordless. That factors in to which will truly be faster in completing the job.

Add to that, there are some installs where a corded tool and generator isn't practical. Example, new construction in a hospital, office building, high rise, etc. without live outlets.....I'd much rather bring a cordless rotary hammer up to the 34th floor than lug a generator and heavier corded tool up to install a set of stud-mounted letters.

Saying "cords are dead" was obviously a bit tongue-in-cheek, but that's where things are headed. California is on the verge of outlawing gasoline powered outdoor power equipment. So the push for battery powered is huge right now. There are battery powered options now for riding lawn mowers, edges, blowers chainsaws, etc. that are far quieter but perform nearly as well as their gasoline counterparts. They require virtually zero maintenance, no gas, no oil. The initial investment is more, but long term, it's a no-brainer.

Battery powered tool technology is getting crazy. Look at the recent World of Concrete showings. Battery powered concrete trowels, tampers, concrete saws, chipping hammers.....these are all "full size" tools. No one running one of these on an appropriate sized job is ever going to wish for gas or a cord and generator. There are obviously some instances where they'll still be required, but for the most part, most would prefer cordless if given the option.

 

[Gino]

See, that's where I said..... we have battery powered tools and use them accordingly, but for the most part, 85% or 90% of our jobs are outside and we need power, like tim allen says.....MORE POWER !!!

Actually moze, most of the jobs you described here, would probably be better with battery tools, but When we're on site, we many times have one of our generators already there, whether we want to or not.

Electric tools as I'm describing will one day cease to exist, but not in my lifetime. I have many of those battery tools for around the house and believe me, they're great. However, e-v-e-r-y one of them needs a charge and guess what that takes ?? Not so much the amount you're using, but how it's produced for you easy use and times that times millions and millions of tools, vehicles and whatever else..... electric will still be the common denominator for quite some time to come.

I wanna help the earth remain wholesome for us, but not to the tune of getting rid of everyone on earth to make it safe. That's a different subject, but totally connected to this one in the long run.

 

[Moze]

I completely agree with your last paragraph. Every source of power (electric, gas, coal, nuclear, hydro, solar) has a downside and I don't think any human can accurately predict which is best long term. I try to do the best I can environmentally with what I have but there are still negative impacts, regardless.

Cordless tools can't exist without the electricity to charge the batteries, so yes, electricity is going to be involved somehow whether the tools are corded or cordless. I can't really imagine any sign install where a cordless tool wouldn't be preferred over corded though. But maybe you're saying you don't want to invest in additional cordless tools because you don't want the generator just sitting there unused? ‍

 

[Gino]

Would you cut or burn it down ?? We cut the sign off and it took about an hour. After that, we did it in 3 sections and we burned it. All total, from cutting to loading in the truck, about 3.5 hours.

 

[Moze]

Would you cut or burn it down ?? We cut the sign off and it took about an hour. After that, we did it in 3 sections and we burned it. All total, from cutting to loading in the truck, about 3.5 hours.

I'd use a cordless recip and a Diablo Steel Demon blade. It would blow through the stub pipe and the square tube like butter. No generator, no cords, no torches, no tanks.....a cordless recip and a blade.

 

[Notarealsignguy]

You're not beating electric. Don't care what anyone says. We just re-decked 3 trailers, even the largest battery powered drill can't hack much more than a few cross members. Yes they're great for onsie twosie convenience but production, not in a million years. Even the cheapest electric drill will drive a screw faster and deeper than the best 4ah drill out there.

 

[Notarealsignguy]

I'd use a cordless recip and a Diablo Steel Demon blade. It would blow through the stub pipe and the square tube like butter. No generator, no cords, no torches, no tanks.....a cordless recip and a blade.

Yeah once or twice. That's the problem. I bought an electric sawzall because I got sick of battery swapping when I was reskinning our shop.

 

[Moze]

You're not beating electric. Don't care what anyone says. We just re-decked 3 trailers, even the largest battery powered drill can't hack much more than a few cross members. Yes they're great for onsie twosie convenience but production, not in a million years. Even the cheapest electric drill will drive a screw faster and deeper than the best 4ah drill out there.

I'm genuinely curious. What are these trailers for that you build? What are you using a drill for - are you driving self-drilling screws through lumber then through steel cross members?