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Installing into Stucco...HELP!

Moze

Active Member
Check for an access hatch or get access behind the fascia and see what's behind it. A little more time intensive maybe but you'll have a definite answer as to what you're attaching to.

If you are bringing a second person and there's access behind the fascia, toggle bolts are a nice option because your penetrations will be minimal (rather than drilling larger holes for embedded anchors, you only need a 3/16" hole for the bolts).



Just another idea - definiteky not saying the other recommendations are wrong.
 
anyone who installs should have a variety of installation hardware in their 'kit' , visit www.toggler.com & they have a variety of solutions for hollow walls. The toggle bolts with 'zip ties' have saved me on many occasions & they have solutions that are rated to suport that individually exceed the weight of most 4X8 signs (multiply that by 4 wall anchors & you can sleep easy on even the windiest/stormy night).

I am not a 'fan' of using chemical fasteners (glues/silicone/etc) on most signs installed to stucco unless it is absolutely a permanent sign (not a tenant sign even if they swear they are never going to move) just because of the potential damage should it need to be removed,additionally I sleep much better utilizing mechanical fasteners. If using chemical fasteners make sure the customer knows the potential risk of damage.
 

visual800

Active Member
If this were my job i would place two gemini studs in rear of plaque drill only 2 holes in the stucco and dabs of silicone on the sign itself it will hold and it will last. the studs in back will deter you from screwing thru the face of the sign

the studs will secure the sign while the cilicone sets up. This method you will not have to spend your time investigating whats behind the stucco and all that jazz. just drill two holes slap it up and go

dont be wasting money on damn lord adhesives its uncalled for.
 

charleskowen

New Member
+1 on not using just glue. I have seen the finish on stucco pull off when a small lexan sheet was siliconed to the surface.


patriot_hall_airport2.jpg

We had to go back and add some hollow wall anchors to make sure they were secure.


On larger signs like neon lit letters with a raceway, we use all thread and drill holes all the way through the wall. I relocated a sign like this that had been up for three years.

sprint_lenoir_city.jpg


For your sign, I would recommend the hollow wall anchors backed up with silicone. Make sure you silicone the top of the sign to keep water from getting behind and freezing or from rusting out your anchors and making a mess on the wall.
 
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Moze

Active Member
If this were my job i would place two gemini studs in rear of plaque drill only 2 holes in the stucco and dabs of silicone on the sign itself it will hold and it will last. the studs in back will deter you from screwing thru the face of the sign

the studs will secure the sign while the cilicone sets up. This method you will not have to spend your time investigating whats behind the stucco and all that jazz. just drill two holes slap it up and go

dont be wasting money on damn lord adhesives its uncalled for.

I don't think Dibond/Alucobond/etc. is thick enough to hold a stud, is it?
 

tsgstl

New Member
I love how some people just assume they know your installation. These are obvious people with little experience. stucco or stucco type walls can be a problem. If you have a sign that needs to be PERMANENT and other sign guys come and use 2 cent anchors and kids yank them off the wall creating big holes in the stucco then yes you need better anchors and you need to "waste your money on adhesive" then you silicone the edges so fingers can't get behind it. Every instalation is different.
There are tons of great advice in this thread with anchors and silicone. Until you drill that first hole your not going to know what's going to work. This sign is over a door I believe, if it just has some cheap anchors holding it into some of the very thin walls of some of the walls I have run in to it could fail and fall on someone's head.

Expect the unknown and don't rush it, make your decisions wisely just like with any good installation.
 

ddarlak

Go Bills!
If this were my job i would place two gemini studs in rear of plaque drill only 2 holes in the stucco and dabs of silicone on the sign itself it will hold and it will last. the studs in back will deter you from screwing thru the face of the sign

the studs will secure the sign while the cilicone sets up. This method you will not have to spend your time investigating whats behind the stucco and all that jazz. just drill two holes slap it up and go

+1, have done this a few times, works well

I don't think Dibond/Alucobond/etc. is thick enough to hold a stud, is it?

one of the signs i did this for was a subsurface, 1/4" plexi, 3' x 3'.

i used four studs. put the sign where i wanted it, pushed into the stuck to give me marks. drilled and glued....
 

Moze

Active Member
Sounds like that would work really well.

I don't see where you said anything about pads though lol :)

In all seriousness, what do you attach the pads to the Dibond with?
 

signage

New Member
gemini studs typically have larger pads by default..
See quote below and show me pads?
If this were my job i would place two gemini studs in rear of plaque drill only 2 holes in the stucco and dabs of silicone on the sign itself it will hold and it will last. the studs in back will deter you from screwing thru the face of the sign

the studs will secure the sign while the cilicone sets up. This method you will not have to spend your time investigating whats behind the stucco and all that jazz. just drill two holes slap it up and go

dont be wasting money on damn lord adhesives its uncalled for.

Nothing said about pad mounted studs just studs!
 

visual800

Active Member
Hey easy folks I assumed we all knew that the gemini studs would have pads. and since this was on dibond I figured all would know it is too thin for aluminum studs only and it would require the studs with pad mounts.
 

Moze

Active Member
I think what threw me was the use of the word "plaque" and then "studs" without the use of the word "pad". I'm in no way trying to pick words or anyone's posts apart, I just got the impression that maybe the original post was misread and someone thought a plaque (ie: thicker material capable of being threaded for studs) was being installed rather than a panel that's less than .250" thick. I totally missed the Gemini reference.

Anyway, to the OP: There are plenty of good ideas in this thread on how to mount the panel - it should be a simple install.

This would complicate things but it would give it more dimension: you could also make a pan panel out of the Dibond and then mount it on 1" aluminum angle. Just an idea.
 

ddarlak

Go Bills!
i assumed you would use the pads, never occurred to me that someone else would think otherwise....
 

tsgstl

New Member
That is a great idea with the pads. I have done this with a rectangular custom acrylic logo matched with gemini letters in stucco and felt safe. Not to be stupid but how would you mount the pads to the aluminum back of the sign? Acrylic glue aint gonna hold. You could go through the face but nuts on the front of a sign face always look hokey.
 

Moze

Active Member
The part that complicates things, is the use of dibond. Pan a piece of .063
Other than the use of dibond......this was the best advice so far.

Yeah, I just really like the looks of Dibond/Alucobond pan panels...they're really clean.

(hey - you edited your post lol)
 

FS-Keith

New Member
That is a great idea with the pads. I have done this with a rectangular custom acrylic logo matched with gemini letters in stucco and felt safe. Not to be stupid but how would you mount the pads to the aluminum back of the sign? Acrylic glue aint gonna hold. You could go through the face but nuts on the front of a sign face always look hokey.

to answer your question, this is a case where you would use a two part epoxy system such as 3m weld on 45 or lord... dont want to use that suff to hold things against walls where it will eventually just crack because it has no give. thats where silicone comes into play
 
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