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Suggestions Is there a choice............ ??

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Have a customer bringing in a truck next week and wants to hide the ghosting of the old graphics. It's really bad and other than painting it, it has to be covered. The lettering going on this truck is small for being a 24' box truck. It's not worth wrapping and such, as the graphics are only going to be about 3' × 4.5'. Painting would be alright, but they're in a hurry and don't wanna wait for the paint to dry properly, before putting on the small logo.

So, I was thinking of just using the color change stuff, but that's kind of expensive. They'll only be using this for traveling between locations in a 2 or 3 state area in the midwest. Would ij35 or ij40 work for covering up the ghosting. No rivets, just those big fat 2" buttons, which we'll remove and then put back on.

Thanks for any input as we don't use the color wrap all that much.
Gene
 

Starter

New Member
IJ40 or 40C as they now call it...is for slight curves. Use some 94 primer around the buttons....good to go.
 

papabud

Lone Wolf
is this something that giving it a good buffing would help hide.
we do that to most of our older vehicles with decent success i also have a product called ghost-off which also helps a bit.
its a spray on and wipe off type product
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
is this something that giving it a good buffing would help hide.
we do that to most of our older vehicles with decent success i also have a product called ghost-off which also helps a bit.
its a spray on and wipe off type product


Not in my opinion or anyone else's around here. This is after being washed.
image002 (7).jpg
 

ikarasu

Active Member
Either would work. IJ35 is a 5 year, IJ 40 is a 7 year vinyl. Putting it on a flat surface is quick and easy. As others mentioned... I'd probably laminate it first, it'd protect the vinyl from tears when they wash it, and removing your lettering would be easier if they plan on changing it later.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
These guys generally run their trucks into the ground. I highly doubt these graphics will ever come off.

My thoughts now are.... should we run 50" panels up & down or 24' panels lengthwise ?? :popcorn: We've run plenty of them horizontally, but never 24' long, just on vans and stuff where it's only like 10' to 12' long. This stuff might get kinda heavy and be a little difficult to go sideways.

Around here, not many people get things wrapped anymore. It's a very depressed area.​
 

2B

Active Member
since there are no buying a full wrap, does their budget allow for a full vinyl coverage?

if you are looking for sectional, than all you need to run a few pieces horizontal, avoid the rivet and then apply their info as needed

either way, sectional vinyl or sectional paint is going to leave the job looking like a scab
 

HulkSmash

New Member
Gino, Ij 40c would work, but you will have edge shrinking by the end of the year, especially if you use some type of calendar lamination. We'd just sell them on the full wrap with ij180 cv3 and wouldn't even mess with the cheap stuff.... just my 2 cents....
 

HulkSmash

New Member
As for which direction to install, i suggest vertical panels, at 48-50" wide per panel. Doing Horizontal installs could cause waves in the seam..and would look "amateur" especially over rivets that big.
 

AKwrapguy

New Member
Have a customer bringing in a truck next week and wants to hide the ghosting of the old graphics. It's really bad and other than painting it, it has to be covered. The lettering going on this truck is small for being a 24' box truck. It's not worth wrapping and such, as the graphics are only going to be about 3' × 4.5'. Painting would be alright, but they're in a hurry and don't wanna wait for the paint to dry properly, before putting on the small logo.

So, I was thinking of just using the color change stuff, but that's kind of expensive. They'll only be using this for traveling between locations in a 2 or 3 state area in the midwest. Would ij35 or ij40 work for covering up the ghosting. No rivets, just those big fat 2" buttons, which we'll remove and then put back on.

Thanks for any input as we don't use the color wrap all that much.
Gene

I wouldn't use IJ35 since it's a calendared material it will shrink and pull back.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
since there are no buying a full wrap, does their budget allow for a full vinyl coverage?
if you are looking for sectional, than all you need to run a few pieces horizontal, avoid the rivet and then apply their info as needed

either way, sectional vinyl or sectional paint is going to leave the job looking like a scab

I don't understand what you are getting at ??

As for which direction to install, i suggest vertical panels, at 48-50" wide per panel. Doing Horizontal installs could cause waves in the seam..and would look "amateur" especially over rivets that big.

I was thinking along those same lines, but I hear so many people suggesting horizontals, I wanted to weigh my choices. I'll take your advice. I trust you. We will be removing those buttons before putting the vinyl down and then putting them back on at the end. Those are the big 2" plastic covers for through bolts.
 

HulkSmash

New Member
I don't understand what you are getting at ??



I was thinking along those same lines, but I hear so many people suggesting horizontals, I wanted to weigh my choices. I'll take your advice. I trust you. We will be removing those buttons before putting the vinyl down and then putting them back on at the end. Those are the big 2" plastic covers for through bolts.


Just do me a favor and slap anyone who suggest horizontal installs to you. Worse thing ever. Literally.
 

Texas_Signmaker

Very Active Signmaker
I do these all day long,. Vertical panels are easiest. 50" won't be a problem. I don't use a bleed around the edges but I use a 1" where you overlap.
 

sardocs

New Member
I've done many trucks in that condition. Most trucks I get look like that. I scuff the surface with a 3m abrasive pad clipped onto a square palm sander. Wipe it down with wax and grease remover and paint it with a foam roller. I use General Paint Marine Enamel, and I put a bit of acrylic automotive enamel hardener in it. Cut in the edges with your favorite lettering flat. Painting it out should only take a couple hours. Letter it the next day if it's in a warm area.
 

ikarasu

Active Member
Your eyes see horizontal splices much easier than vertical. Generally if possible, you always want to do vertical. Though there are some circumstances where horizontal will look better... but not many!

One thing to keep in mind... the old lettering might show through the vinyl. Odds are it wont since it's just a stain, but we've had some trucks where after we put the vinyl on, it left an impression. So I'd take a small 12" x 12" sample of whatever white you have laying around, apply it over and see what it does.

It took us countless hours sanding one of these down because it wasnt just residue, but some sort of glue/very thin layer of dirt, so all the text showed right through... It's only happened once, but my arms are still soar from all the sanding to fix it.

[Edit] Just to add, we usually use 180 - But we're not just trying to cover in white, it's usually a printed file / design. And 180 is a bit thinner...so it may not be a problem with IJ40 as much.
 
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