Ok Here It Is!!
Here is your material list:
Go here for these :
http://www.tileheater.net/shop/order120.html
1-
Item: TT5-120
Quantity: 2
Description: 120V Radiant Floor Heating Mat covers 1.5 ft. X 5 ft.(7.5 S.f.); output 12 Watts per S.f.; 0.75 Amps
Price (each): $74.58
Item Total: $149.16
2-
Item: MTC-2991-TS
Quantity: 2
Description: 120V, 16 Amp, (Non-programmable), thermostat control with floor sensor.
Price (each): $69.00
Item Total: $138.00
3- I got these at Lowes : Approximate Cost $30.00
2- Rolls of the High Temp Duct Tape
1- Roll of Insulation
2- Plastic Switch Boxes
2- 6-foot 3 prong cords
1- Small box self taping screws
1- Small pack wire tie
The heating mat needs to be removed from it's plastic netting ( Be careful not to nick the cable or it will not work). Then you will need to make sure when you put the cable onto the front cover you don't get the cable to close to the groove that fits over the bottom piece (See Photo). Then all you have to do is run the cable and make sure you don't bend the cable too sharply and just thread it until it runs out (DO NOT TRY TO SHORTEN IT). Then all I did was tape it with the high temp tape so that the cable would stay against the cover and then when you add the temp sensor cable make sure it does not touch the heating cable (When you come to the end you may need to make a loop in the cable to exit the cover to keep it off of the heating cable, I did on the front cover but did not have to on the rear cover). When I insulated it I turned the insulation backwards (shiny side next to the heating cable just to make sure the insulation did not get too hot I did not know if the rubber side could take the heat directly so I did it to be safe). Just be sure not to cover the media sensor holes in the cover. You will have enough insulation for another project leftover. Feed the control cables through the hole that the wiring of the printer goes to the main circuit board and drill two holes in the bottom of the housing for the control cables to go to the switch boxes (In the pictures you will see these duct taped to the leg of the printer because I forgot my drill on that day, they, will be secured by self tapping screws later). You will have a lot of extra control cable from the heating cable left over so all I did was make a large loop of it and wire tie it together and tape it to the inside of the housing where the main board is (see photo). All you have to do then is wire it up per the instructions supplied with the heating cable and repeat this for the rear. I got this idea hunting around for different ways to come up with a way to heat the media other tan the over priced Roland heater add on and it did not even include the rear unit so after I got the specs of the Roland unit I started looking for alternatives and being a building contractor for over 20 years I have used this stuff quite a few times to heat tile floors so that is where this idea sprang from. So I hope this helps someone else out. I have let this heat up until the thermostat kicked in and it was quite hot to the touch, I have no way to make sure it does heat to 122 degrees other than the thermostat but it does heat which is more than I had which was nothing. Sorry for the quality of the pictures but all I had with me at the time I did this was a camera phone.
Also, switching over to solvent ink was no problem at all. I changed the capping station with a solvent resistant one, and the ink pump with a solvent resistant one, flushed out the ink lines, put in refillable cartridges, flushed out the dampers, flushed out the heads ( I used a cleaning solution I had bought from Ebay for Epson heads look up seller tinteiros ) All you need is a syringe to push the cleaning solution through and then use it to suck the ink through the lines. I bought all my change over parts from an Ebay seller ( Look Up solventinksonline ) I am using TechInk for the solvent ink so far the colors are not to far off but only time will tell about that after I have had time to play around with the profiles a little. I did buy the solvent ink lines but I wont change them until I see it is necessary to do so. I even bought new heads but I am not going to use them until I find it necessary also the heads are no different so until trouble starts I will use my old ones.
ALL OF THIS INFORMATION IS WHAT I HAVE DONE FOR MY SELF AND I NO WAY TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR WHAT YOU MAY DO WITH THIS INFORMATION !!
I Hope This Helps,
Richard
THE PICTURES OF THIS PROJECT:
