Well order 3 more heads at $660 each $100. more than digi, But the one I order from this guy working good after I got vapor lock squared away.Thanks for that tip...really started to worry about printer being all screwed after the new head was on and loosing the right channel . I know Iam working you on infomation ,but how do you get the rank numbers to stay dial in. The manual say put all the numbers in then press end, but it want let me go to the next rank number unless I press end and it set the old rank back in.Lot of people say not to worry about rank and Iam sure the head Iam getting will not have rank on them because the one he sent me did not.Just would like to know because I spent about 2 hour on that with no success.Really had me going nuts, so decided I didn't need no rank at this time.What do you think about the rank numbers.The ones from digi had 3 stickers too with rank numbers but all 3 stickers had the same numbers on it.
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jv3 160sp heads not firing
- Thread starter humpsigns
- Start date
artbot
New Member
with the ranks (i'm not a print head changing expert. there are some really experienced guys on this board that are. so if i'm not completely right on this bare with me) just keep hitting the "go right" arrow button and it will introduce the new fields all the way down to the one that is just a letter or two. then hit end. that is what i do and the ranks stay. or maybe you hit the left arrow one more time which goes to the beginning field with the new numbers and then hit end? something like that.
the printer will print just fine with or without the ranks. sometimes the firmware can reject a head with the wrong ranks entered. i've heard that over time if the voltage is seriously off, the head will not last as long and develop some issues.
as far as the stickers... are they identical? epson, roland, and mimaki stickers are very similar in the first two fields (just one or two different characters) so if you were to read the first line, it would look very much like the other two. upon closer observation, i'll bet they are minutely different. did yours have a rectangular plate over the top of the head, below the manifold? or after the manifold was it a tiny figure 8 gasket then pcb?
the printer will print just fine with or without the ranks. sometimes the firmware can reject a head with the wrong ranks entered. i've heard that over time if the voltage is seriously off, the head will not last as long and develop some issues.
as far as the stickers... are they identical? epson, roland, and mimaki stickers are very similar in the first two fields (just one or two different characters) so if you were to read the first line, it would look very much like the other two. upon closer observation, i'll bet they are minutely different. did yours have a rectangular plate over the top of the head, below the manifold? or after the manifold was it a tiny figure 8 gasket then pcb?
artbot
New Member
then there's no doubt that digi is taking apart epson 10000 head assemblies and parting them out. there must have been a batch of secret heads that went out that accidently had the roland mimaki with the epson. several turned up shedding light on the myth of "authentic OEM heads".
Just got back from my sons soccer, going to try rank numbers after I get hood on boat wrapped and see if that will do anything, if not Iam done with these head. Maybe Ill nail them on the wall just to remind me not to go with the best deal next time.Just like the sign business... you get what you pay for,but dang that was a lot of clams.They did email me about rattled head and said they would except package and send to tech to check it out.Hummmm just have to wait and see.You know all the dealers want a service tech to put them in to give you any kind of warranty on them.
SightLine
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If it's not a Mimaki head rank # the printer might not accept it. If thats the case just leave the old head rank in and it will run. As mentioned though - it could have a slight impact but generally it works just fine. Worst case is if the voltage is too far off it coudl cause nozzle deflection.
Definitley purge the shipping solution out of the head with solvent solution before trying to print with it but do it slowly and with little pressure. As pretty as that razor edge line of spray from the nozzles is - as artbot mentioned - that is generally way too much pressure and is potentially causing damage. I've also discovered this the hard way... lol
Definitley purge the shipping solution out of the head with solvent solution before trying to print with it but do it slowly and with little pressure. As pretty as that razor edge line of spray from the nozzles is - as artbot mentioned - that is generally way too much pressure and is potentially causing damage. I've also discovered this the hard way... lol
ok sorry if this a resurrected thred but we have a JV3 160 SP2 and ive been away on holiday and had a new encoder strip delivered. all heads were working yesterday. i changed encoder and cleaned encoder sensor all seems to be fine but none of th eheads will print a test draw now, anyone have any idea why it wonjt print anything. cable problem or something simple
Alan
Alan
Now I've heard it all.
Solventinkjet
DIY Printer Fixing Guide
Encoders do come with a film sometimes for sure. In my experience with the JV3 it's usually the sensor being bad that causes the heads not to fire at all. When you cleaned it, it may have become damaged in some way.
sorted it out, the new genuine mimaki encoder had a protective film on one side, removed and heads are firing now, nows the time to get them all back, out comes the big syringe and new capping station and dampers. this thing nearly had me beat,, haha im gonna give it a couple of kicks to the old bugger!