JV33 Black Misfires, Drop Out Help!!!

[moyica]

Hi Guys, I'm started a new thread since I was babbling back in forth in a similar thread about a similar issue I had at first.

In short... I had my magenta's giving me problems and dropping out half way on me and I step by step went about getting them back my replacing the cap top and dampers etc.
Keep in mind only the magenta's were giving me issues. So a week later I got all my parts in replaced them and did some tweaking and got every color firing back EXCEPT BLACK that I never had an issue with.

After doing some suggested cleaning etc I still cannot get the black back. It was randomly firing a different pattern but always less than 25% of the entire test pattern.

Aside from taking the head off and letting it soak for a few days I think I have done everything.

HELP!!!!

 

[J Hill Designs]

so you replaced the black cap top as well? might have dropped it in wrong?

 

[moyica]

so you replaced the black cap top as well? might have dropped it in wrong?

There's only 1 capping stations/cap top on the JV33 so I know its on there correctly.

 

[SightLine]

There is only one cap top on a single DX5 head machine. Have you tried a nozzle soak? Give it a good 30 minute soak and see if that brings it back some. I'd also check the fittings on the top connector for the 2 black dampers to make sure neither came loose at all and are sucking any air in. Also possible you got a bad damper. Seems like most of these woudl only affect one black channel or the other though.

Another thing to check is that the new captop is sealing good and both of the little tubes are connected to it.

so you replaced the black cap top as well? might have dropped it in wrong?

 

[moyica]

There is only one cap top on a single DX5 head machine. Have you tried a nozzle soak? Give it a good 30 minute soak and see if that brings it back some. I'd also check the fittings on the top connector for the 2 black dampers to make sure neither came loose at all and are sucking any air in. Also possible you got a bad damper. Seems like most of these woudl only affect one black channel or the other though.

I'm going to do a good 30min soak right now.I just rechecked the pump tube connections and they look good.
I have replaced the black damper twice now because I thought it was the damper as well but it made no difference.
The strangest thing to me is with all that done its only affected the black channel. I have done the manual cap top adjustment as well to no avail.
I would believe that if it were the cap top it would effect the other channels as well and it hasn't.

 

[Masseria]

There is only one cap top on a single DX5 head machine. Have you tried a nozzle soak? Give it a good 30 minute soak and see if that brings it back some. I'd also check the fittings on the top connector for the 2 black dampers to make sure neither came loose at all and are sucking any air in. Also possible you got a bad damper. Seems like most of these woudl only affect one black channel or the other though.

I'm going to do a good 30min soak right now.I just rechecked the pump tube connections and they look good.
I have replaced the black damper twice now because I thought it was the damper as well but it made no difference.
The strangest thing to me is with all that done its only affected the black channel. I have done the manual cap top adjustment as well to no avail.
I would believe that if it were the cap top it would effect the other channels as well and it hasn't.

have you tried absorbing through the cap? and check if there is a good seal?

 

[mustafade]

What kind of ink are you using. OEM or third party?

 

[4R Graphics]

I had my Black drop out like yours the other day I replaced the dampners and got some of it back then it went away again.

Long story short I replaced the dampners on both black channels 2 times before the problem went away was very stressful.

If you are not using OEM dampners you may have some bad ones just my experience.

Look at the dampner end that connects to the head if the rubber seal inside is grey colored those are the ones I replaced several times before I got it all to work.

 

[moyica]

I have gotten ink to absorb through the bottom of the cap so it doesn't show any issue there.
I am using all OEM ink.
I have another set of non OEM dampers coming in. If they don't work I'll look into some OEM ones.
I'll keep you guys updated as I will most likely be replacing them tomorrow.

 

[moyica]

Just a quick update for those who may wonder or care. I got in the new dampers (generic) and have replaced them all. After 2 ink fill ups and a soft clean I got most of the black back (that's the one I have the most problem with) but now I lost one of my cyan's completely just like I had lost my black. CRAZY....
So I'm going to throw the damper that was working on there back to see if it comes back. OMG. How crazy is this.
At least my black is almost back.

 

[Vital Designs]

I have been having a similar problem. It started out mainly with yellow. After changing cap top, dampers and damper connectors I had a similar issue just a little more erratic (Cyan and black would occasional drop). It turned out to be a defective new cap top. There was a slight flat spot on one side of the rubber seal which was barely noticeable.

The dropouts were on the left side of the test draw which was the area of the flat spot.

 

[WI]

I had a problem kind of like this with our JV33. The Cyan kept dropping out (as printing the same half of the pattern or not printing at all) in the middle of a very large job that was mostly blue. What a lovely week that was.

The issue was ultimately fixed by replacing the printhead, but that's a $3000 repair on this particular machine, so if you explore other options I don't think anyone would blame you.

 

[Robert M]

pump

My want to change the pump, random drop out could be the pump is failing.

 

[4R Graphics]

I said it before and I will say it again if you are using NON OEM dampers and they have the grey rubber seal in them I have had to change several of these before getting them to seal well.

As a test I tried an old damper that had the blue rubber seal and the generic one with the grey rubber seal and I noticed that the blue ones are a lot tighter fitting on the manifold nipples than the grey ones.

Just my 2 cents I know the generics are cheaper but when I have t replace a brand new damper 3 times to get a good one well for a few dollars more I could have put OEM ones on so OEM for me now ( I never had problems with non oem until this last order). I like to replace the dampers 2 or 3 times a year just to keep everything running optimal.

 

[MarkH42]

I had a similar issue, but mine was only the CYAN. The problem was I had crimped the ink line when putting a cover back on after some maintenance. The line ended up getting cut at that point and was leaking ink. It would work for a while, then drop out when it lost it's "prime". You may have crimped or damaged the ink lines. It is a long shot, but very easy to inspect and rule that out.

 

[moyica]

I said it before and I will say it again if you are using NON OEM dampers and they have the grey rubber seal in them I have had to change several of these before getting them to seal well.

As a test I tried an old damper that had the blue rubber seal and the generic one with the grey rubber seal and I noticed that the blue ones are a lot tighter fitting on the manifold nipples than the grey ones.

Just my 2 cents I know the generics are cheaper but when I have t replace a brand new damper 3 times to get a good one well for a few dollars more I could have put OEM ones on so OEM for me now ( I never had problems with non oem until this last order). I like to replace the dampers 2 or 3 times a year just to keep everything running optimal.

Ok so I bit the bullet and got all OEM dampers ($46 x 8) and OEM data cable at the same time only ($10) . Replaced them all and STILL have the same issue. Barely and Black channel and NO 1st CYAN.

I actually spoke with the Mimaki Lead field tech for the entire east coast on the phone and he said I have done absolutely everything he would do + some and he would replace the head.
I cant believe it has come to this. The machine didn't even have much use.

Any final thoughts?

Before I replaced the dampers I let the head soak in solvent for the weekend and was sure to check every valve, socket, o-ring etc and no dice.

I'm so defeated

 

[Tekkie1]

Have you tried pushing some cleaning fluid through the heads via a syringe and new damper and use a push ..pull effect?
This has worked for me in the past.
What are the oem inks you have?
es3 ss21 hs ecohs1 ss22.. Ts.. bs1 bs2 bs3?
Have you connected the syringe to one of the pump lines underneath (while blocking the other) and opened the cartridge valves on the black and cyan and sucked from underneath the head while it is capped? In other words you are acting as the pump?

Tekkie1

 

[4R Graphics]

That sucks sorry to hear it.

Bright side you will have a new head with perfect test prints and if taken care of should last you a long time.

 

[romichoux]

You can try to test your printhead and slider board with a voltmeter. If you need help to do this, send me a mail and i will send you the process.

I have already fix this process by changing the slider board but you need a voltmeter to know if this board is damaged. and you can also test your head to know if the electrical part is damage or not.

 

[moyica]

@Tekkie1 I have done what you have suggested with the push pull and it has had any effect on the outcome. I am using all OEM SS21 ink.

@bearwen I now do have a new head to look forward to but now my only fear is that its a board and not the head.

@romichoux message will be on its way to you