JV33 damper installation ( compression damper ) help!

[DigitalBBQ]

Hi there, anyone know how to fill the compression damper using on the JV33 so that there is no air inside the damper ?
Many attempts still got little air in top of the circular compartment! Thanks

 

[DigitalBBQ]

After the much research, a few damper wasted, and even calling Tech to come over and waiting for the secret to reveal, and then nothing!!!!

May be someone know but not talking......

Obviously the trick isn't there, the tech rely on suction from the Mimaki to do the compression. He doesn't even know how to prime these dampers!!!!

Here is my own experiment I like to share with the forum, on JV33 dampers, to prime it completely without air inside of it, and take less than 1 minute to do. Once this information got out from this forum, it should help save some cost for JV33 owners , and perhaps teaching some of those tech some new moves :

1 ) get the syringe ready-filled with the color you need to prime it connect the tube and enough ink in the syringe. You will need syringe with correct type of tubing, only need like 4-5 inches so you can have some distance between the syringe and the damper when you filling it, you need to make sure that the damper and syringe forming smiling face ( that is just my prefer on this but it doesn't have to be smiling face)

2 ) hold the compression damper upside down ( circular compartment need to be on the top, and facing away from you ) You will not be able to see the circular disc since you will be looking at the side that showing rectangular filter compartment facing you. While holding at this position, on the circular disc on the other; you will need to use one of your finger may be index finger and PRESS down the disc so when you filled the ink from the bottom to the top, when circular disc is pressing ink can flow to the top.

3 ) Tilting while filling the filter compartment first, right before ink reach to top compartment, this is where tilting is critical. Too much tilt the fluid will go too fast before the air. Tilt just enough for the fluid to push the air out of filter compartment completely. If you let go of the disc while doing this the air get juggle between the two compartments and the fluid will be splatter all over inside and you losing the 1 time easy fill opportunity once the fluid has adhere to surface inside damper the liquid seal forming and there is no easy way to get the air out!!!

See attach gif image of my quick diagram for this, and anyone has better ideas please do share, thanks.

 

[COREYAARON]

Here is the secret..shhhh....

boot the printer up, at the home screen press func-maint-st maint-carriage out. This will move the head to the left end of the printer...at this point you can remove the cover at the end of the printer on the front side and manually push the head to "maintenance bay". take a q tip or something soft and slim and press against the ink damper near the bottom on the round pouch. If your ink is flowing freely you will see it drip out the bottom of the head where the nozzles are.

 

[Robert M]

Dampers

I had a Mimaki Factory tech install my Mimaki last week and all he did was press the white circle on the side of the lower chamber on the damper. this allowed some ink to flow from the damber. I am not sure if this is enough of a release to drawn ink down the lines but it quickly filled the damper

 

[DigitalBBQ]

boot the printer up, at the home screen press func-maint-st maint-carriage out. This will move the head to the left end of the printer...at this point you can remove the cover at the end of the printer on the front side and manually push the head to "maintenance bay". take a q tip or something soft and slim and press against the ink damper near the bottom on the round pouch. If your ink is flowing freely you will see it drip out the bottom of the head where the nozzles are.

The ink line at any particular damper will not flow FREELY, due to the fact that the jv5 or jv33 has two valves that normally closing. One sitting at the end of the ink cartridge which control ON/OFF or OPEN/CLOSE by the reading of the ink chip, and the firmware respond to the open/close by the command send by the firmware. By moving carriage out to the left bay, with empty damper in the ink line, pushing that circular disc actually making the ink from the line flowing into the damper compression chamber, but the ink actually never flowing out from the cartridge since the valve is still on CLOSE position. So by doing the process as quoted above, you actually making your ink line compromising the pressure which already established prior within the line from the end of the cartridge to the nip tip top of the damper connection, and when compression chamber filled with ink from the wrong doing; the re-compression process will need to be re-establish, and often or sometime if you LUCKY, the ink line compression may get back to operational but never normal and never to peak performance or imperfection but under goes unnotice; until you have a high speed printing and that when the ink compression start to give you the not-so-tight compression and dripping inks all over from the printhead at later time. At the slow speed, this compression problem may be just o.k. to get by. The Mimaki original tech do have this sequences in the process of changing the damper properly without loosing the compression; but they won't tell you since they want $$$$ in service calls. Most tech doesn't even understand this compression method in the ink system completely so they installed it with the compromising compression level; which is o.k. to print time to time, but Mimaki JV5 and JV33 can print at the Stunning Speed with quality using a particular 3rd party inks with a bit more vehicle in the ink fluid. Original OEM ink tend to be more glueey and more sticky of the ink fluid so that would work with some damper install incorrectly for a while until the ink dropping in/out then became significant a the later time.

The secret, there is not secret; You can do whatever you want, but NEVER compromise the fluid compression between the back-end of the cartridge valve (on-closed position) to the nip tip of the damper.

This nipple tip of the damper also acting as a valve to lock the fluid until is push in and twist, that when the ink can flow out freely but that also already compromise the pressure within the line from 1st valve (back of cartridge) to the 2nd valve (that nipple tip of the damper)

This is why is it important to do a little TRICK, to prime the damper correctly by using personal method , and you have that 1 chance to push the NIPPLE TIP and locking it in place otherwise, the air get trap in the circular compression chamber and you have also compromise the pressure again.

All dampers as we know it today, have to be PRIMED, and they have to be PRIMED correctly. Ink delivery system should be no air in all lines. Some printer can take care of the air trapped inside the damper better than another, some printer can work with losing compression for a while.

 

[signswi]

Pull ink through the damper with a syringe.

This forum should have an auto-responder which posts the above sentence.

 

[baumanb]

After the much research, a few damper wasted, and even calling Tech to come over and waiting for the secret to reveal, and then nothing!!!!

May be someone know but not talking......

Obviously the trick isn't there, the tech rely on suction from the Mimaki to do the compression. He doesn't even know how to prime these dampers!!!!

Here is my own experiment I like to share with the forum, on JV33 dampers, to prime it completely without air inside of it, and take less than 1 minute to do. Once this information got out from this forum, it should help save some cost for JV33 owners , and perhaps teaching some of those tech some new moves :

1 ) get the syringe ready-filled with the color you need to prime it connect the tube and enough ink in the syringe. You will need syringe with correct type of tubing, only need like 4-5 inches so you can have some distance between the syringe and the damper when you filling it, you need to make sure that the damper and syringe forming smiling face ( that is just my prefer on this but it doesn't have to be smiling face)

2 ) hold the compression damper upside down ( circular compartment need to be on the top, and facing away from you ) You will not be able to see the circular disc since you will be looking at the side that showing rectangular filter compartment facing you. While holding at this position, on the circular disc on the other; you will need to use one of your finger may be index finger and PRESS down the disc so when you filled the ink from the bottom to the top, when circular disc is pressing ink can flow to the top.

3 ) Tilting while filling the filter compartment first, right before ink reach to top compartment, this is where tilting is critical. Too much tilt the fluid will go too fast before the air. Tilt just enough for the fluid to push the air out of filter compartment completely. If you let go of the disc while doing this the air get juggle between the two compartments and the fluid will be splatter all over inside and you losing the 1 time easy fill opportunity once the fluid has adhere to surface inside damper the liquid seal forming and there is no easy way to get the air out!!!

See attach gif image of my quick diagram for this, and anyone has better ideas please do share, thanks.

Digital BBQ, your post is great, so is the drawing.
I would prefer if possible to get it in higher resolution. It's 20kB in size and I really can't read it....

thanks a lot for your nice description and work you put in preparing the drawing.


Boris

 

[SightLine]

Digital BBQ, your post is great, so is the drawing.
I would prefer if possible to get it in higher resolution. It's 20kB in size and I really can't read it....

thanks a lot for your nice description and work you put in preparing the drawing.


Boris

If you click his name - his profile shows he was last logged in on this site about two and half years ago. I doubt he is going to get your message....

 

[baumanb]

If you click his name - his profile shows he was last logged in on this site about two and half years ago. I doubt he is going to get your message....

It's even better to get your reply. I noticed in another thread you stated you never needed syringe for JV33 dampers. I would like to do it without syringe as well. Just install and open valve behind cartridges? but how you open them?


thank you in advance

Boris

 

[SightLine]

Search on here, download and read the service manual. Open the cartridge valves in the service menus opening one as you need to while installing the dampers. Pretty much remove the old damper, connect the new damper to the line, open the ink valve for that color in the service menu, then while holding the damper connected to the line upside down lightly press in the side of the damper to open it and ink will then flow into the damper. Keep letting it fill until ink just starts to come out. Make sure to have paper towels handy to clean up any ink that spills. Ideally you will have NO air in the dampers on these type dampers.

 

[Solventinkjet]

Ideally you will have NO air in the dampers on these type dampers.

I have always been under the impression that the rectangle in the back of the dampers should be full with no air and the circle part should be about half full. I'm pretty sure that's what they taught me at Mimaki school but I can't remember 100% now. In my experience the circle has always been half full but then after a long time of use becomes full. I know you know your stuff on these machines. Just wondering what your experience has been.

 

[SightLine]

As far as I know the compression dampers used on the JV33/CJV/JV5 machines should not have air in them at all. On the older basic filter dampers used on the DX4 head machines those should always be half full. That being said - I honestly do not know if it makes a big difference or not. On our JV33 I have always made sure they are completely full and have never had any issues. It is quite possible that maybe things would work just as well with them half full like the older style dampers though...... really cannot remember having seen it documented though but I know I learned it somewhere at some point.

 

[Myster Enigma]

As far as I know the compression dampers used on the JV33/CJV/JV5 machines should not have air in them at all. On the older basic filter dampers used on the DX4 head machines those should always be half full. That being said - I honestly do not know if it makes a big difference or not. On our JV33 I have always made sure they are completely full and have never had any issues. It is quite possible that maybe things would work just as well with them half full like the older style dampers though...... really cannot remember having seen it documented though but I know I learned it somewhere at some point.

Hi Sightline. I'm not so technically gifted when it comes to self service on these machines. I have a CJV30 60 and need to replace the dampers. With my Roland there's a ton of videos on Youtube so visually watching a video gives me so much more confidence. However there's hardly any videos on how to remove the cover on a Mimaki CJV series. Are there any videos which you are aware of which shows how to prime a damper? Thanks

 

[holmeswake]

Hi Sightline. I'm not so technically gifted when it comes to self service on these machines. I have a CJV30 60 and need to replace the dampers. With my Roland there's a ton of videos on Youtube so visually watching a video gives me so much more confidence. However there's hardly any videos on how to remove the cover on a Mimaki CJV series. Are there any videos which you are aware of which shows how to prime a damper? Thanks

I'm right there with you. I need to change mine as well but can't find any information or videos showing the process. Did you figure it out?

Were you having problems that made you need to or want to change the dampers?