laminate flatbed print?

[bigben]

Hi!,

I've got a job that I need to print on coroplast then apply dry erase laminate. My supplier said I can not laminate a flatbed prints. Is it true? My logic can't tell me why it would be true...

 

[Sticky Signs]

I think the issue has something to do with adhesive and UV ink not being very compatible. I'm not entirely sure so hopefully someone has some better input.

 

[housemusikid]

We laminate flatbed stuff here and if there is not a solid white edge, it gets printed on the Mimaki. I have learned that the laminate does not stick to flatbed inks very well over time.

There is a halo effect of bubbles around the letters and it looks like cut vinyl is laminated on a flat surface. I HATE IT!

 

[Mspec]

I have several customers that apply laminates to thier flatbed work, thinner laminates like AccuShield go on very nicely, and if you are using PS, give it a little heat and extra pressure to eliminate the halo of bubbles. With full bleed work, there is always a chance of the lam pulling the print off of the surface of the substrate, so I always tell people to leave a little margin around the print, so it will be encapsulated. I say laminate your heart away, it makes the colors pop, and provides abrasion resistance.

 

[bigben]

ok, thank you all. I will say safe and print it on vinyl then put it on coroplast.

Thanks again.

 

[particleman]

Liquid coater is the way to go, I know that isn't really an option for you but we've found that regular laminate doesn't stick very well at all to uv prints.