Mounting a 4x8 on laminator.....

[SameDay Signs]

Just pulled a trigger on a new RS 55" cold laminator with take up, LOVE IT! No issues using it as I am familiar with how to work them but am wondering the best bet to mount a 4x8 to a coro or max metal board. We tried the put the first couple inches then running it but it leaves a line near top and didnt know if there were any tips on maybe doing half of it at a time and so on? I have searched threads and havent found anything so please before I get a search the forums remark, I already have.

Thanks and appreciate the help in advance

 

[Sign Eagle]

Assuming your print is the full 4x8, we cut one of the 4ft edges of the print, aline it on the edge of the substrate an apply a strip of masking tape across the edge of the print with about a 1/4" of the tape on the print, fold the rest of tape down the edge of the substrate and onto the back. We use 3/4" tape, 1" is better. Our work table and laminator feed are the same height, we lay the substrate with the print across the table and pull it close to the feed roller, then pull the untapped end of the print across the top of the laminator, start to peal the backing paper from the taped edge back across the top of the laminator and pull or push the substrate into the rolls. Hold the backing paper so it peals from the print as it feed thru the machine. With our set up one person can mount 4x8 or even 5x10's very easily.

 

[phototec]

I use a sled for mounting sheets on our laminator.

1. Cut a strip of the same thickness material that you're mounting to. In your case, I'd use a piece 6" x 48".

2. Lay a strip of 1" or 2" painters tape with half of it exposed along the long edge of your sled.

3. Flip your sled upside down so that adhesive from painter's tape is exposed. (up)

4. Line up your board to your sled and tack it down firmly to the painter's tape.

5. Prep your board, then line up your print (which should have bleed and/or crop marks for th) and create a tape hinge to the sled using 1" or 2" painter's tape.

6. Flip the print over the laminator, make sure the pressure/speed is set correctly, and peel back the liner and let er rip.

Lining up the liner with the print as it feeds and only holding it in the center (to keep even tension) helps ensure that it doesn't walk over the length of the board.

Hope that all makes sense........it's been a long day! Enjoy the new toy.

Pat, do you have a photo of this method, I read this twice and not getting this?

 

[SignProPlus-Chip]

[video=youtube;d_f-c-uzgJE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=d_f-c-uzgJE[/video]

 

[Andriy]

Hi, had a minute so created this quick sketch.
I believe this is what Pat has described which is how we do it at our shop as well so I hope this helps! (It doesn't show the tape portion but I'm sure you will get it)

 

[phototec]

Hi, had a minute so created this quick sketch.
I believe this is what Pat has described which is how we do it at our shop as well so I hope this helps! (It doesn't show the tape portion but I'm sure you will get it)

^Yup that's pretty much all there is to it!

Other than the tape holding the sled to the board, and the tape hinge holding the print to the sled, that's all it is.

It's pretty much fool proof once you get the hang of it.

edited to add because I'm a stickler for detail: I do like to make sure the sled is 6" - 8" long so you can get it into the first set of rollers before you flip the print over the laminator.

Pat, ok I get it now (almost) thanks to Andriy's sketch, and I assume that you tape the sled (6-8") and the substraight together on the bottom, but where do you put the TAPE HINGE?

 

[SameDay Signs]

Did the above method today and worked like a charm so very appreciative for the help. My only question or concern is wondering how a smooth finished piece of max metal would go through the laminator? Full sheet nothing but factory cut. Let me know if you have this, again it would be through a 55" RS

 

[phototec]

Hi, had a minute so created this quick sketch.
I believe this is what Pat has described which is how we do it at our shop as well so I hope this helps! (It doesn't show the tape portion but I'm sure you will get it)

Andriy, Thanks so much for making the sketch, as Confucius said "a picture is worth a 1000 words". Many times people are very familiar with a process (they see the images in their head) however when they use words to describe the process, flip this, turn that, put tape on the edge, etc, and if you have never done it, just reading the words can be a bit confusing.

 

[petepaz]

we do it like the youtube vid chip posted. works 99.9% of the time

 

[phototec]

Is max metal the corrugated + aluminum stuff? Or just like dibond? Either way any flat sheet works great this way.

It's a good idea to check for burrs or sharp edges so you don't wreck your rollers. Another good thing is stringing these http://stopstatic.com/solutions/static-in-wide-format-printing/
in front of and behind the laminator because getting shocked by aluminum based sheets is NOT fun. I used to get mad at my sister for yelling and swearing until I got shocked so bad I almost peed a little. It REALLY hurts. You just need to string them across so the substrate just runs over it and discharges the static. We also have them on the back of our Roland printers.

Hey pat while you are taking photos of the sled, please take a photo of these on your Roland printer, ok?

The static electricity this time of year is really bad...