Mounting Channel Letters to Brick

[SqueeGee]

We're quoting a set of fabricated metal Gemini letters that will be LED lit to provide a halo effect. They will be installed on the exterior of a brick building that has has block behind it. On the other side of the wall where the sign will be installed is a stairwell.

The copy is 4, 18" tall letters centered over top of 14, 10" tall letters, centered over top of 6, 10" tall letters. The letters will be 2" deep using Gemini's "Removable Can" mounting option.

The letters will be approximately 20' above grade and the closest viewing distance will be a parking lot at the bottom of the sign.

UL listing is not required in this locality.

They will not be on a raceway.

I'm wondering about connecting the wiring for the letters - from letter to letter. Do they all need to be run through the brick/block wall? OR, could the letters be connected to each other outside the wall and the wire disguised enough so that it isn't noticeable?

I recognize that the we'll need to penetrate the wall for how ever many times we need to take power through it. My question is only in regard to letter to letter connections.

On the inside, will we just need to build an access panel that covers everything?

***Edit - Just got the quote from Gemini. Yikes - spendy! I'm going to have another trade supplier take a look at it.

 

[J Hill Designs]

Do they all need to be run through the brick/block wall? OR, could the letters be connected to each other outside the wall and the wire disguised enough so that it isn't noticeable?

only you know if the wiring can be disguised enough to not be seen...

if its brick, you can see if it is feasible to run it along the mortar joints and paint it grey...

 

[letterman7]

That's a whole lotta drilling. Personally, I'd break each line down and put them on a raceway wider and taller than the letters. Mount each raceway snug to each other. Make sure the raceways are painted close to the brick color (or, digital print a brick pattern). Yes, you won't get quite the same effect as surface mounted, but you'll be able to better contain the wires and far fewer holes to be drilled.

 

[SqueeGee]

only you know if the wiring can be disguised enough to not be seen...

10-4

Is it a viable plan? Have others done so successfully? Or is my judgement being impaired by the strong desire not to drill through that wall 20+ times?

 

[J Hill Designs]

I personally would pull the wires through...at least its not neon with an in-out for each letter @ 1.25" diam.

single hole @ 3/8" diam aint too bad of a drill, cept it sounds like you need to drill 13" or so to get through the CMU's behind the brick

 

[SqueeGee]

*sigh* In my gut, I guess I knew. I'd probably spend as much or more time trying to conceal the wire versus just drilling.

What about the cabinet/access panel inside. Any tips there?

 

[J Hill Designs]

does it need to be concealed? build a wireway if not...if so, I have no guess as I haven't seen the location

 

[SqueeGee]

It's in a public stairwell, approximately 6' off the inside floor height. In this instance, I think it's less about being concealed and more about just securing everything from being screwed with.

 

[J Hill Designs]

well, with LED PSU's you only need to make a box about 3" deep...maybe put a graphic on it to make it look like an architectural element...IDK

 

[jayhawksigns]

If you drill, think about a rotary hammer.

We had a Verizon job, individual letters mounted on a brick wall, power had to be run in Sealtite, big hole for each letter. We already had the rotary, but I wouldn't of wanted to try the job without it.

 

[J Hill Designs]

yeah hammer drill is a must have

 

[Gino]

I don't think I've ever seen a professional installation where the wires were exposed. If they were hidden in a raceway and you paint the raceway to match the facade... but individually, they should go through the wall.

Tell me more about a 2" deep can for channel letters that won't show hot spots.

 

[J Hill Designs]

its reverse pan channel for halo effect only Gino...should be fairly even

 

[Gino]

its reverse pan channel for halo effect only Gino...should be fairly even

:Oops:.... I missed that part. So sorry.

 

[SqueeGee]

Thanks for keeping me straight!

Any suggested wholesale fabricators for a job like this? I've used SBI in AL and US Signs in FL before but I'm open to suggestions.

 

[J Hill Designs]

I would just use gemini, mark it up and quote, and not be too sad if someone undercut it...these jobs always include PITA tax in my book

 

[SqueeGee]

Yeah, but it's part of an overall package that includes interior signs and other less PITA signs. And it's in my backyard so it'd be tough to watch another company come in to do it.

 

[J Hill Designs]

10-4

 

[sar bossier]

I have ordered from Matthews in the past - high quality, MUCH less expensive than Gemini ... http://www.matthewsbronze.net/techinfo/LET-sizes.htm

 

[J Hill Designs]

I dont think matthews does the pan fab letters