Need Help Mounting help w/ PVC panels

[White Haus]

We've got a project coming up soon w/ a bunch of PVC panels throughout a higher end office.

This portion will be up on a bulkhead and will essentially have (4) panels @ approximately 34" x 34". (mockup attached)

I'll be using 12mm PVC for these.

For some of the smaller (not overhead) panels we'll probably just use some VHB tape, but I don't think that's a great idea for these ones due to the weight and size, and the location.

Would drilling/tapping the backs of these and adding studs be a good approach? We would cut the blanks on our CNC so could easily pre-drill holes at the same time, but I've never drilled/tapped mounting holes before so a little thrown off by the whole process.

Not looking to use standoffs or visible mechanical fasteners for this one.

Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Signstein]

You could use hanger screws. Just use your CNC to put pilot holes where you want them and then screw them in. Those plus adhesive/tape would hold your panels securely.

 

[unclebun]

We did a museum project many years ago with printed PVC panels that we used 3/4" MDF boards sized smaller than the print painted black on the edges that were mounted to the wall with countersunk fasteners and then used 6mm PVC for the prints, attached to the MDF with a Lord adhesive that came in a two part mixing syringe. Unless you are wrapping your print around the edges of the thick PVC it would work and give a very similar look.

 

[Humble PM]

I'd go for z-bars with something like Tecbond 248, assuming 12mm PVC won't be affected by the 195ºC melt point, but UBun's solution would be even more solid.

 

[OmegaSpecter]

Does it need to be mounted flush to the wall? By PVC I'm assuming expanded PVC, you can likely get away with 6-8 10/24 pins around the perimeter (I wouldn't bother with a center pin, nightmare to line up at install) and silicone on the fasteners and back of the sign (this is obviously permanent and removal will require patch and paint). If it doesn't need to be flush, why not a French cleat (it's essentially a z-bar as mentioned by Humble PM)? You can route it from the same PVC since you're only getting 2 panels per sheet and reduce your waste. 4 x 3" x 30" with a 45° angle on one side per panel, pre drill holes w/ countersink on the router. Pattern for cleat install on wall, doable from ladder, safest using a small interior lift

 

[pro-UP]

Will the pvc be exposed to any sunlight? They tend to warp.

 

[visual800]

.5" is a little too thin to be placing screw anchors in, not enuff meat on that size grab anything. I would think small finishing nails with vhb maybe 4 nails per square or a french cleat

 

[GaSouthpaw]

Studs or pin mounts should be fine. I usually do 3/8" deep on 1/2 (12mm) PVC. And make sure to put a piece of tape on the tap as a stopper so you don't go too deep.

 

[Johnny Best]

French cleats from Broklyn Hardware. E.asy to install and line up for a cleaner look.

 

[Gino]

Did ya ever consider doing it on 1/2" gatorboard ?? At that height, no one will ever notice a difference. I don't mean not telling them, but offering the substrate.