Mounting prints to yard signs, Lam or no?

we never lam coro signs.

 

That would depend on if you were able to charge for lam or not.

 

No lam here, just let them dry good before trimming

 

we do alot of these throught the year. no need to laminate them for bleed. print with bleed say a half inch over, mount and trim with a shape blade. they won't curl and you should have zero problems doing it that way as we do it all the time.

 

For full bleed coros I'd consider jobbing it out to someone with a flat bed UV machine.

 

if you have aload, yeah, job it out as jlarby says, but if you don't have aload......no sweat doing it yourself, its dead fast.....especially if you have a laminator, just put them through that to mount them and the job is done in no time.

 

I usually print all of them as a big sheet, mount them to coro with our laminator and then trim them to size, saves you having to cut the coro to size and then trim the prints. i don't laminate coro prints.

 

if its only 6.......get em printed, whack them onto the coro and get it out the door....easy job!

 

My shop usually tries to make it a point to lam everything we do that is full color digital. Just to protect it but if its a order that came in quick and they need it quick and it won't be up for an extended period of time.....I don't see a real need for lam its just one of those extra careful things.

 

We like to lam them. Since we aren't a UV flatbed shop we aren't chasing price. We make them to look great and last years.

 

i laminate pretty much anything i print on my mutoh. cost wise, it seems like its about the same to lam and mount as it is to tape and mount so i see it as 6 of one half dozen another...

ive tried to just mount the print alone and that was terrible...any tips for that

mark galoob

 

granted, laminating the print is easier to mount if your doing it by hand as its thicker.....we use our laminator to mount mostly though.

 

I print the coro signs on B-line cheap vinyl from Nglantz, then I use a big Squeegee to lay them down, B-line lays down perfect on a coro blank, I did 100 3 weeks ago & didn't mess any up. I would have struggled with that many 3651 prints. Made some cash on that job. They wanted them quick.
Here is how you use the BS
The material is 30" wide
The print is 24, (I weed it first, this is when I like having a print cut) weeds in seconds
Then I trim the bottom slicing just a fraction of the print, this gives me a straight line to work with
Then I trim both sides of the bottom print up about 3 inches on both sides (freehand cut with knife)
I use 2 clothes pins to hold the print while I tape it
I hit the tape on my pants leg so it doesn't stick as much (do it best painters grade is my favorite)
I tape it down with 2 inch masking, folding it over, pay attention to the bottom edge with the tape first then wrap around the back, trim the edges.
I flip it back, peel it & lay it down in like 3 seconds
done
peel the tape -on to the next one
I have a square long 1 x 1 I clamp on the table to jam against while I squeegee
Might seem like a lot of work but I do these so fast I don't even think about it now.
Good luck, I never lam a coor print by the way
T trim the bleed signs, I use a smaller breakaway razor knife & stick the blade out really far then trim like that.

 

We print, but don't laminate any Coroplast signs

 

Anything on Coro I print on 3621 and don't laminate. I laid down two 2' X 8' full bleed prints today, no issues at all with the yard tool big squeegee. I printed them on Tuesday and they sat Wed & Thurs, and no curling or anything today. The longer they can set the better.

 

I only laminate if the coro sign is fairly long term or double sided. No matter how much I tell the client that if they remove the backing paper that is between the DS signs, they will stick together, they never listen.

Of course, there's always the customer who needs DS signs yesterday, and there's not always time to do things the way you want to.