jgproducts
New Member
What can you use to clean up Naz-Dar GV Series ink? I had heard that Xylene or something similar would work.
Thanks
Thanks
-
I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...
Naz-Dar Question
- Thread starter jgproducts
- Start date
G-Artist
New Member
GV is NASTY stuff. It eats capillary film and softens squeegees.
LT works. May wish to add a bit of recommended screen wash to it.
We make a cocktail out of various chemicals for each line of ink we use using the MSDS sheets supplied by NazDar as a base point for making a solvent cleaner that costs less then what Naz Dar sells.
LT works. May wish to add a bit of recommended screen wash to it.
We make a cocktail out of various chemicals for each line of ink we use using the MSDS sheets supplied by NazDar as a base point for making a solvent cleaner that costs less then what Naz Dar sells.
jgproducts
New Member
GV-Ink
Hey Guys,
Thanks for the advice on cleaner. LT worked pretty good. And man is that GV a mess to use. First attempt today printing some deacls on clear vinyl. They were just one color but it was learning experience to say the least. I used a 230 mesh screen with just Ulano QTX emulsion. These were not to detailed and came out very good. I think I let the ink stay on to long and could not get it all out. May have to reclaim and try to scrub it out.
I am wanting to do some more detailed stuff and wondered if I should use Capillary file instead of emulsion?
Been doing t-shirts a long time and now I know when I ask other shops if the do decals they so NO!
Tis is a learning curve so please give me some advice.
Thanks,
Joe
Hey Guys,
Thanks for the advice on cleaner. LT worked pretty good. And man is that GV a mess to use. First attempt today printing some deacls on clear vinyl. They were just one color but it was learning experience to say the least. I used a 230 mesh screen with just Ulano QTX emulsion. These were not to detailed and came out very good. I think I let the ink stay on to long and could not get it all out. May have to reclaim and try to scrub it out.
I am wanting to do some more detailed stuff and wondered if I should use Capillary file instead of emulsion?
Been doing t-shirts a long time and now I know when I ask other shops if the do decals they so NO!
Tis is a learning curve so please give me some advice.
Thanks,
Joe
I have used acetone to clean out clogged areas, if it is a case of small characters, a q-tip dipped in whatever solvent you are using works well for me. Sometimes you will need to make a small pad of paper towel to hold on the back of the screen when using the q-tip, as this will absorb the solvent and aid in the cleaning. If Naz-Dar solvent is attacking your squeegees, you may be using the wrong squeegee material. I have found that neoprene squeegees cannot tolerate harsh solvents. Just my 2 pennies, Good Luck!
jgproducts
New Member
Naz-Dar
Thanks for the advice. Swinging without a net so will soak up all advice. I learned that you have to work fast. Had a bit of trouble with the material wanting to stick to the screen even though I was off contact. Guess it would not hurt to wipe print side every few strokes.
Thanks for the advice. Swinging without a net so will soak up all advice. I learned that you have to work fast. Had a bit of trouble with the material wanting to stick to the screen even though I was off contact. Guess it would not hurt to wipe print side every few strokes.
Bill Modzel
New Member
FYI, NazDar's 9700 "all purpose" ink works just fine on vinyl substrates and is a whole lot less caustic and smelly and cleans up allot easier too.
We're a long time flat stock screen shop and haven't used vinyl ink in 15 years at least.
We're a long time flat stock screen shop and haven't used vinyl ink in 15 years at least.
jgproducts
New Member
Thanks
I was trying to see how much detail I could get with the emulsion before having to use capillary film.
jgproducts
New Member
Does the 9700 airdary like the GV stuff? Do you do small stuff or big stuff? I am wanting to print decals for my RC car customers and a lot of it is small stuff.
G-Artist
New Member
About 95% of all our screen work is polypropylene (coro) or polypropylene coated paper stock we only use CDF-4 from Ulano. Naz Dar vinyl inks soften the hell out of it. I haven't tried an indirect stencil with that ink.
You DO need a vac. table to hold the vinyl.
We have stopped using vinyl inks and use enamel by Naz Dar for the few jobs we have. It works. If 9700 inks work then maybe give them a try. I don't have it as we don't need more chemistry and inks in inventory.
The 7900 series (coro) will work short-term on vinyl. After we print a run of signs for political candidates, we will slip a few magnets in using the same screen and inks. For the few weeks/months they will be in use it suffices.
Oh, give yourself an edge and ALWAYS thin with retarder.
You DO need a vac. table to hold the vinyl.
We have stopped using vinyl inks and use enamel by Naz Dar for the few jobs we have. It works. If 9700 inks work then maybe give them a try. I don't have it as we don't need more chemistry and inks in inventory.
The 7900 series (coro) will work short-term on vinyl. After we print a run of signs for political candidates, we will slip a few magnets in using the same screen and inks. For the few weeks/months they will be in use it suffices.
Oh, give yourself an edge and ALWAYS thin with retarder.
jgproducts
New Member
naz-dar
Thanks G-Artist for the advice. Do you have to use the Naz-Dar retarder or can you use somethig else?
I am modifying my table to have a vacum on it. The tape was a pain.
Thanks G-Artist for the advice. Do you have to use the Naz-Dar retarder or can you use somethig else?
I am modifying my table to have a vacum on it. The tape was a pain.
jgproducts
New Member
Do you know how much they use or a ratio to thin?
I am just experimenting trying to find a happy medium that works for me and what I am doing.
Thanks
I am just experimenting trying to find a happy medium that works for me and what I am doing.
Thanks
Bill Modzel
New Member
It's pretty easy to build a vacuum table. Our large "hand pull" tables were built with cabinet grade chip board. Mark a grid and run your router across both directions and than a few diagonal cuts to where your vacuum fitting will mount.
Vacuum the board well and roll with contact cement along with the top which will be formica. Apply when tacky like any countertop.
Backing up a bit. Make sure the you mark where your vacuum cuts are on the side of
the chip board. Than use those marks to snap chalk lines on the surface of the formica so you know where to drill the holes.
I've found that a dremel tool with a rheostat control to slow it down is the best way to drill them out. At full speed it will burn and dull the drill bit very quickly.
Addressing the 7900 corogloss ink. Even with retarder that ink series is almost impossible to keep the screen working by hand. It's a challenge using a press even.
I switched to the 9800 series poly plus ink for my coro and polybanner jobs. It's thin enough to run right out of the can and is much more forgivable in the screen. No static webbing at all.
. . . and yes, the 9700 is air dry. It doesn't carry a lot of gloss in itself but will print glossy on glossy vinyl and satin on matt vinyl.
Vacuum the board well and roll with contact cement along with the top which will be formica. Apply when tacky like any countertop.
Backing up a bit. Make sure the you mark where your vacuum cuts are on the side of
the chip board. Than use those marks to snap chalk lines on the surface of the formica so you know where to drill the holes.
I've found that a dremel tool with a rheostat control to slow it down is the best way to drill them out. At full speed it will burn and dull the drill bit very quickly.
Addressing the 7900 corogloss ink. Even with retarder that ink series is almost impossible to keep the screen working by hand. It's a challenge using a press even.
I switched to the 9800 series poly plus ink for my coro and polybanner jobs. It's thin enough to run right out of the can and is much more forgivable in the screen. No static webbing at all.
. . . and yes, the 9700 is air dry. It doesn't carry a lot of gloss in itself but will print glossy on glossy vinyl and satin on matt vinyl.
G-Artist
New Member
I always use the factory retarder. Better safe than sorry.
Since we use 100% retarder as our thinner with the 79 series ink we really have no drying problems and I am in Florida where summer temps get high and we virtually print outdoors. I have a seriously long extension cord on the office phone so if I have a long conversation with a customer I print a board or two every few minutes while talking to keep the screen wet.
Since we use 100% retarder as our thinner with the 79 series ink we really have no drying problems and I am in Florida where summer temps get high and we virtually print outdoors. I have a seriously long extension cord on the office phone so if I have a long conversation with a customer I print a board or two every few minutes while talking to keep the screen wet.
jgproducts
New Member
Thanks for the help. I will order up some factory retarder to try. I used iot out of the can and it did seem a bit thick but went on pretty good. Just trying to learn a new trick or two.
Chris Lovelady
New Member
ok everything said here is good...we stopped using the Gloss Vinyl inks and switched to the 9700 and use it on all material including decals, aluminum, wood..but the coro, though you can add an additive to the 9700 to stick to coro but there is a pot life to it...we always use the retarder not the thinner.
i called one time to find out the formula for the screen wash at NazDar and got them to tell me it is equal parts xylene/xylol and acetone I buy them from the paint store and mix they my self. cheeper and you don't have to pay the hazard shipping from UPS
i called one time to find out the formula for the screen wash at NazDar and got them to tell me it is equal parts xylene/xylol and acetone I buy them from the paint store and mix they my self. cheeper and you don't have to pay the hazard shipping from UPS
Last edited: