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Need Help Need Advice Replacing Mimaki UJF-3042 HG Ink Damper

Discussion in 'Mimaki' started by SgPrint, Feb 4, 2020.

  1. SgPrint

    SgPrint New Member

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    Feb 3, 2020
    Singapore
    Hi Guys,

    I'm new to Uv Printing, only started about a month ago. It's been an interesting learning curve adjusting to Raster Link. Had to make a couple of mistakes, trial and error to learn quickly with the "live" jobs that had come in. Im enjoying it so far.

    I bought a 2nd hand 4-year old Mimaki ujf 3042 hg uv printer. We did a nozzle test print and the Cyan is misfiring. The technician also mentioned the same issue and asked to change the ink damper for the cyan. Ive done a couple of prints, auto cleaning, manual cleaning and the issue still persist.

    I'd like to attempt changing this on my own by purchasing a damper online.

    There are no instructions on changing this, well at least not that I can find any. I don't want to damage the carriage so could someone share instructions, videos etc on how to access and replace the damper.

    Thank you guys!
     
  2. What do you mean misfiring what does your test print look like for the Cyan ?
     
  3. SgPrint

    SgPrint New Member

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    1
    Feb 3, 2020
    Singapore
    Hi Tipgypsy,

    The "lines" or nozzle marks printed by the cyan have missing gaps when printed. So it still prints but not completely.
    Also when I did a simple printout of a solid cyan rectangle the output isn't a solid block, its a faded print - which brings me to think that the cyan is firing but not consistently due to depressurisation caused by the damper.

    What are your thoughts?

    Thanks
     
  4. SgPrint

    SgPrint New Member

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    Feb 3, 2020
    Singapore
    Pls see my reply made, didn't tag you in the previous answer. Thanks
     
  5. hand851

    hand851 Roland Mutoh & Mimaki inks digiprint-parts.com

    127
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    Nov 22, 2010
    Columbus, Ohio
  6. Put a mirror on the bed and see what the surface of the print head looks like, Gently clean it with maint fluid and a swab then do a head soak for 5 mins or so . Fill the cap with fluid and set the time . Then do two cleanings on the Cyan and check the output with a head test . If its the same or worse . Do an air purge on the cyan damper and another cleaning cycle and check the test again. You should also make sure the cap station is clean and the rubber seal is flexible and not distorted . Your Damper is probably fine if your getting ink at the head . A bad damper will either clog solid , leak or admit air - They are indeed tricky to replace - The head leads are easily damaged and if you get ink on your flex cable connectors it can eat the contacts off the flex cables .
     
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