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Need Help Need Advice Replacing Mimaki UJF-3042 HG Ink Damper

SgPrint

New Member
Hi Guys,

I'm new to Uv Printing, only started about a month ago. It's been an interesting learning curve adjusting to Raster Link. Had to make a couple of mistakes, trial and error to learn quickly with the "live" jobs that had come in. Im enjoying it so far.

I bought a 2nd hand 4-year old Mimaki ujf 3042 hg uv printer. We did a nozzle test print and the Cyan is misfiring. The technician also mentioned the same issue and asked to change the ink damper for the cyan. Ive done a couple of prints, auto cleaning, manual cleaning and the issue still persist.

I'd like to attempt changing this on my own by purchasing a damper online.

There are no instructions on changing this, well at least not that I can find any. I don't want to damage the carriage so could someone share instructions, videos etc on how to access and replace the damper.

Thank you guys!
 

Tipgypsy

New Member
Hi Guys,

I'm new to Uv Printing, only started about a month ago. It's been an interesting learning curve adjusting to Raster Link. Had to make a couple of mistakes, trial and error to learn quickly with the "live" jobs that had come in. Im enjoying it so far.

I bought a 2nd hand 4-year old Mimaki ujf 3042 hg uv printer. We did a nozzle test print and the Cyan is misfiring. The technician also mentioned the same issue and asked to change the ink damper for the cyan. Ive done a couple of prints, auto cleaning, manual cleaning and the issue still persist.

I'd like to attempt changing this on my own by purchasing a damper online.

There are no instructions on changing this, well at least not that I can find any. I don't want to damage the carriage so could someone share instructions, videos etc on how to access and replace the damper.

Thank you guys!
What do you mean misfiring what does your test print look like for the Cyan ?
 

SgPrint

New Member
Hi Tipgypsy,

The "lines" or nozzle marks printed by the cyan have missing gaps when printed. So it still prints but not completely.
Also when I did a simple printout of a solid cyan rectangle the output isn't a solid block, its a faded print - which brings me to think that the cyan is firing but not consistently due to depressurisation caused by the damper.

What are your thoughts?

Thanks
 

Tipgypsy

New Member
Put a mirror on the bed and see what the surface of the print head looks like, Gently clean it with maint fluid and a swab then do a head soak for 5 mins or so . Fill the cap with fluid and set the time . Then do two cleanings on the Cyan and check the output with a head test . If its the same or worse . Do an air purge on the cyan damper and another cleaning cycle and check the test again. You should also make sure the cap station is clean and the rubber seal is flexible and not distorted . Your Damper is probably fine if your getting ink at the head . A bad damper will either clog solid , leak or admit air - They are indeed tricky to replace - The head leads are easily damaged and if you get ink on your flex cable connectors it can eat the contacts off the flex cables .
 

TD Digital

New Member
When you do a nozzle test does the print look identical each time or do the missing nozzles fluctuate?

By the way damper replacement is super easy and I have walked our most novice customers through this process very easily don't let these people scare you.
 

abrham melese

New Member
When you do a nozzle test does the print look identical each time or do the missing nozzles fluctuate?

By the way damper replacement is super easy and I have walked our most novice customers through this process very easily don't let these people scare you.
hello, guys it is interesting conversation u guys having i do have mimaki ujf 3042 mkII it been one year since i bought and i am the one whose working was and i need asst operator train him but unfortunately he changed the white ink bottles with the black one after many cleaning the black is fine but the white is light gray now please i need suggestion please
 

TD Digital

New Member
hello, guys it is interesting conversation u guys having i do have mimaki ujf 3042 mkII it been one year since i bought and i am the one whose working was and i need asst operator train him but unfortunately he changed the white ink bottles with the black one after many cleaning the black is fine but the white is light gray now please i need suggestion please
Hello Abrham,

I recommend purchasing two flushing cartridges and that you flush the white system completely. You may also need to change the dampers because that black pigment is extremely difficult to get rid of completely.
 

Headstrike

Mimaki Wide Format Printer Services
hello, guys it is interesting conversation u guys having i do have mimaki ujf 3042 mkII it been one year since i bought and i am the one whose working was and i need asst operator train him but unfortunately he changed the white ink bottles with the black one after many cleaning the black is fine but the white is light gray now please i need suggestion please
Discharge the white line and flush it very well with 07. Not much else to do since it's black into white. Other colors, you might be lucky running few fillups, but this would take forever and you wouldn't probably get an acceptable result at the end anyway.
Don't forget to wash the recirculation line as well.
I would wash it manually with a syringe. To be honest, using the capgoms on MKII is a nightmare.
 

vsdesigner

New Member
When you do a nozzle test does the print look identical each time or do the missing nozzles fluctuate?

By the way damper replacement is super easy and I have walked our most novice customers through this process very easily don't let these people scare you.
Hello TD Digital, I have the same problem, I believe that changing the shock will solve it, but I can't find any video or tutorial that can help, can you help me, thanks in advance.
 
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