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Need some ideas for mounting 2 sided substrate between 2 PVC posts

hotboxdp

New Member
Need some ideas for mounting 2 sided substrate between 2 PVC posts. Pictured

Signs101.JPG
 

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Gino

Premium Subscriber
* what size are the posts ??
* What is the sign(s) materials ??
* what's the size(s) of the signs ??
* what is the thickness of the signs ??
 

hotboxdp

New Member
4 x 4 posts - wood filled pvc
Either 1/2" PVC, Wood or 1/4" MaxMetal
30" x 72" & 8" x 72"

Looking for a clean look.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Well, since you're profile says you're from the united states, I have no idea of the weather conditions, so it would really help to know. Also, it would be good to know what the substrate is, as that can have a real effect on how to mount it.

If you want a clean look....... think about at least 3/4" pvc.... if not 1". Make it 4" longer and rout your posts and slide the sign inside of the routed areas and drive 2 or 3 screws through the post, sign and almost out the other side, just not quite. Make a plug for the screws. 1/4" anything will not work. Too long of a span, especially for the little ones.
 

JBurton

Signtologist
I'd weld or glue .090" or .125" aluminum to a mitered square tube frame. Then let my guys load it face down so I have to travel to site to fix graphics/touch up, this way I can also find the pile of aluminum shavings where they trimmed the legs to save time digging a little deeper and tried to hide it.
 

White Haus

Not a Newbie
I'd weld or glue .090" or .125" aluminum to a mitered square tube frame. Then let my guys load it face down so I have to travel to site to fix graphics/touch up, this way I can also find the pile of aluminum shavings where they trimmed the legs to save time digging a little deeper and tried to hide it.

Sounds like a plan lmao....
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
This would be a much better way, but I got the impression the OP didn't have access to these methods. Also, I think it's a double sided sign.
 

JBurton

Signtologist
Also, I think it's a double sided sign.
I gathered, but I'd just use twice as much material and try to get the customer to ok placing faces over the poles instead of between. It's harder to get a clean look betwixt two poles without going to either a knock down kit or something else. Routing a groove like one would do in wood isn't as solid since the tube is hollow obviously.
 

Stacey K

I like making signs
Get a frame kit from 4ever and use 6mm acm.
I sold quite a few of these with ZERO issues at all.

The last guy that bought one didn't put the posts close enough and there was 1" on each side of open air! The top rail flew off a few times. It was embarrassing for me but it wasn't my fault. I had the entire sign put together in my shop to make sure it all worked out - and it did. The guy was an idiot and it made me look like an idiot also. I'll still sell them but I guess I'll need to explain each step and use that moron as an example.

Good products as long as the installer isn't a complete idiot.
 
Did something very similar 9 years ago and still standing. Two panels of 1/4" Max Metal (ACM), one for each face. Sandwiched some 1/8" alum that extend about 1.5" beyond each edge. (Alum was not continuous across panel, about 12" wide on each end and another in the middle for support. Panels were bonded to aluminum with VHB and construction adhesive.) Slotted wood posts to accept aluminum blades extending from edges. Screws through post and aluminum to secure in slot. Left gap approx thickness of PVC/Vinyl post cover. Then slotted post cover from top down the height of the panel(s). Slide post covers up from the bottom. Slots in post cover are hidden by thickness of ACM panels and top of slot covered by post cap. Result was a very strong sign with no visible fasteners or slot edges.
 

visual800

Active Member
if I were do this sign I would have a 1x1 aluminum frame built to mount between the posts and mount your signsage to the frame. You mount the frame first with lag bots going into the posts
 

hotboxdp

New Member
Did something very similar 9 years ago and still standing. Two panels of 1/4" Max Metal (ACM), one for each face. Sandwiched some 1/8" alum that extend about 1.5" beyond each edge. (Alum was not continuous across panel, about 12" wide on each end and another in the middle for support. Panels were bonded to aluminum with VHB and construction adhesive.) Slotted wood posts to accept aluminum blades extending from edges. Screws through post and aluminum to secure in slot. Left gap approx thickness of PVC/Vinyl post cover. Then slotted post cover from top down the height of the panel(s). Slide post covers up from the bottom. Slots in post cover are hidden by thickness of ACM panels and top of slot covered by post cap. Result was a very strong sign with no visible fasteners or slot edges.
I'd like to see a picture of that
 

hotboxdp

New Member
I sold quite a few of these with ZERO issues at all.

The last guy that bought one didn't put the posts close enough and there was 1" on each side of open air! The top rail flew off a few times. It was embarrassing for me but it wasn't my fault. I had the entire sign put together in my shop to make sure it all worked out - and it did. The guy was an idiot and it made me look like an idiot also. I'll still sell them but I guess I'll need to explain each step and use that moron as an example.

Good products as long as the installer isn't a complete idiot.
They're very nice but very expensive.
 
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