eahicks
Magna Cum Laude - School of Hard Knocks
The premask holds any pieces/holes/opening together....I thought you were plotting the vinyl as mentioned in original post. If it is a solid piece of vinyl, then you don't need it.
-
I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...
Need some out of the box thinking on vinyl cutting/application
- Thread starter czwalga
- Start date
The premask holds any pieces/holes/opening together....I thought you were plotting the vinyl as mentioned in original post. If it is a solid piece of vinyl, then you don't need it.
I am but only cutting out the numbers area that overlays the scoreboard. So it's still one piece. However the center section of the numbers loses a lot of strength since its only held together by a few narrow pieces.
printhog
New Member
Option 1 go to a thicker vinyl/ laminate construction so it's easier for staff to handle.
Option 2 make an application jig that holds the vinyl in place and aligns all the parts without error. (This is how car manufacturers put the decals on the cars they make and it's by far the best means.)
For option 2 I'd align the sign in a holding jig, then make a second floating frame to hold the decal above it.
Something like the way the speedpress kit does..
Www.speedpress.com
That frame should use clear application tape to hold the decal.
Graphic frame would have a means to register and align with the frame of the holder.
Press the decal down over the numbers first. Then squeegee the rest.
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
Option 2 make an application jig that holds the vinyl in place and aligns all the parts without error. (This is how car manufacturers put the decals on the cars they make and it's by far the best means.)
For option 2 I'd align the sign in a holding jig, then make a second floating frame to hold the decal above it.
Something like the way the speedpress kit does..
Www.speedpress.com
That frame should use clear application tape to hold the decal.
Graphic frame would have a means to register and align with the frame of the holder.
Press the decal down over the numbers first. Then squeegee the rest.
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
So not sure what kind of eco-solvent printer your using but if it were me I would look at doing this:
Using a cast vinyl and if you're rocking 3m try the 3m IJ180cv3 it will be more expensive but it won't shrink or pull away from the edges after a few weeks like the calendared vinyl will.
Again I'm not sure how you have your system set up, if you printing these off one at a time or your doing them in batches, but if your doing them in batches get a laminator this way you can do large batches to save on time and material. Again use cast material 3m has 8520- matte finish, 8519 luster finish 8518 gloss finish. For the purposes of what your doing I would say look at the 8519 luster, I believe it's a little less expensive than the 8518 gloss.
Once you have printed a batch of lets say 50, you can let them dry, over laminate them, cut them out, and apply them, trim, package and ship, than profit.
I see that your spraying clear coat on them after you apply the vinyl.... I'm not sure this is a good idea especially long term, will the clear coat protect against UV fading?
By laminating rather than clear coating you are also bypassing the extra drying time needed allowing you to get the product out the door more quickly.
if you are concerned that the vinyl will pull up on the edges, try using 3m's primer 94 in the surface first.
Have you tried to apply the graphics to solid piece and used the CNC to cut it out all as one piece? Does it damage the vinyl? If not that might be another way to streamline the process.
Using a cast vinyl and if you're rocking 3m try the 3m IJ180cv3 it will be more expensive but it won't shrink or pull away from the edges after a few weeks like the calendared vinyl will.
Again I'm not sure how you have your system set up, if you printing these off one at a time or your doing them in batches, but if your doing them in batches get a laminator this way you can do large batches to save on time and material. Again use cast material 3m has 8520- matte finish, 8519 luster finish 8518 gloss finish. For the purposes of what your doing I would say look at the 8519 luster, I believe it's a little less expensive than the 8518 gloss.
Once you have printed a batch of lets say 50, you can let them dry, over laminate them, cut them out, and apply them, trim, package and ship, than profit.
I see that your spraying clear coat on them after you apply the vinyl.... I'm not sure this is a good idea especially long term, will the clear coat protect against UV fading?
By laminating rather than clear coating you are also bypassing the extra drying time needed allowing you to get the product out the door more quickly.
if you are concerned that the vinyl will pull up on the edges, try using 3m's primer 94 in the surface first.
Have you tried to apply the graphics to solid piece and used the CNC to cut it out all as one piece? Does it damage the vinyl? If not that might be another way to streamline the process.
So you're printing out the graphic, than you run it through the plotter cutting out the number slots, than you're trying to apply the graphic to the board and it's getting deformed because the area between the numbers slots is to thin....
What everyone is saying is that after you run it through the plotter, weed the the number slots out, apply the pre-mask to the vinyl (just like you would apply regular vinyl you need good adhesion). You than line the graphic up however you need it, apply the the graphics just like normal, and than you remove the pre-mask and your done. The pre-mask will act an extra membrane to maintain the graphic with it's being applied.
eahicks
Magna Cum Laude - School of Hard Knocks
This is what I'm getting at.... I assumed this was common knowledge among sign makers.
GAC05
Quit buggin' me
This sounds like a good idea - if the base is white it should work fine.
Who knew that Corn Hole technology had advanced so far? Are they wireless Bluetooth too?
wayne k
guam usa
I'm pretty sure that he's not a sign maker or installer and has learned by doing it. He probably had a thought of 'I can make this better', either created the tech or re-purposed tech to create these and has found a nich market to cater towards, which is good for him as long as he's making money.
You would still have to trim them out, there would be a gap between the wood and clear that you would still have to trim. Right now he's using IJ35C which I believe is air-release where as a clear of the same price wouldn't have air-release and he would probably have to wet install which would be a whole other issue.
I've actually printed on clear before. It doesn't turn out nearly as nice as the other ones do. Originally that was my plan, but i switched because some customers where unhappy with the way it looked. This way I've had no complaints... just looking for an easier way to do it for others at my shop.
I took everyones suggestion and bought clear mask to just put over the number area.
I took everyones suggestion and bought clear mask to just put over the number area.