Need to remove spray paint from clear acrylic

[Hillmann]

I need some suggestions on what I could use to remove spray paint from clear acrylic that won't melt or scratch the acrylic. I sprayed the second coat a little to heavy and in a few places it caused the first color to crack and lift and the second color got under the first. (the sign is painted on the back side of the acrylic so you are looking through it and the paint on the back side is what makes up the image of the sign, so I can't just sand it down to smooth it out and touch it up)

 

[CS-SignSupply-TT]

hhhmmm!!! Have you tried mayonnaise to remove?

 

[J Hill Designs]

define "spray paint"

 

[Hillmann]

hhhmmm!!! Have you tried mayonnaise to remove?

I can't tell if you are joking or not. But, no, I have not tried mayo. The only thing I have tried is alcohol but that didn't do anything to the paint. All the other chemicals I have on hand I know will eat up the acrylic.

 

[Hillmann]

define "spray paint"

Spray paint from a spray can. It is Rust-oleum painters touch.

 

[signmeup]

I smell an experiment!
Try a citrus based stripper.

 

[J Hill Designs]

Im surprised the paint itself isn't crazing the acrylic...not sure what will take it off, maybe spray on a sample and start testing...naptha, xylene, turps, etc

 

[ChicagoGraphics]

Xlene will eat the plastic right up, maybe try easy-off oven cleaner works great on truck doors.
I never heard of mayo taking paint off, lol

 

[CS-SignSupply-TT]

Remember, mayo is used to remove scratches on woodwork finishes. REAL mayo, not the fake stuff

 

[Charlie J]

Citrusol....try in a small area first

 

[Maxphobia]

Not sure if this will work but you may want to try soaking it in hot water if it'll fit in a container you can soak it in then use a abrasive towel to wipe it clean. I did something similar with a project I did once.

 

[Gino]

Is it possible to post a picture ??

What you're describing doesn't make sense..... anyway, not to me. How did overspary get onto an area if you had it covered with a prior coat ??

Does the acrylic have to remain clear and free of scratches or are you trying to take overspray off of another coat of paint ??

Please, my head hurts from trying to figure this thing out. ​

 

[Hillmann]

I would like to thank everyone for there suggestions, through experimenting I found that if I laid a piece of paper over the area I want the paint removed then slowly drip mineral spirits onto the paper until it is saturated after letting it sit a couple minutes the paint under the paper can easily be wiped up and the area around it isn't touched, but I think that in the end I might just end up making a new sign due to the fact that I think it will take more time to repair the sign I have now than to make another.

 

[Hillmann]

Is it possible to post a picture ??

What you're describing doesn't make sense..... anyway, not to me. How did overspary get onto an area if you had it covered with a prior coat ??

Does the acrylic have to remain clear and free of scratches or are you trying to take overspray off of another coat of paint ??

Please, my head hurts from trying to figure this thing out. ​

I'll try and post a picture on Monday (left my camera at home)

The sign is made by taking a clear piece of plexiglass, painting the back side of it white. Then running it through a laser to remove the white paint in the area I want the design along with a little of the plexi. Then spraying over the engraved area with whatever color I want the design to be. The sign is viewed from the other side so you are looking through the plexiglass . The color you put on first looks like it is on top and the color you put on last looks like it is behind.

The problem is that when I sprayed the second color the solvent in it dissolved the white paint and seeped under it and cracked it.


EDIT: This method it the exact opposite of using a stencil.

 

[Gino]

Okay, now I know what you're doing.

Wouldn't it be easier to put down a vinyl knockout template, spray the lettering on first. After that dries, just spray your background color on and you're done. No, engraving needed. Be sure not to use such a heavy coat of paint. Rustoleum is usually an oil-based paint and will lift the first coat if you saturate your surface too much. A few dry coats or mists is all you need. Once that sets up, then use a slightly heavier coat.

I think you'd get a much crispier edge this way and you won't have jaggedness from the engraver messing with colors.

 

[J Hill Designs]

methinks the engraving adds depth to the lettering...

 

[Sign Works]

The laser sounds like a lot of unnecessary work as well as painting primary copy with a mask. I just lay reversed/mirrored vinyl on back then paint background color.

Either way get a new piece of acrylic and start over.

 

[Hillmann]

It definitely isn't an ideal way to make signs this large. Cut vinyl would, without a doubt be the way to go, but this started as an experiment on acrylic awards to add depth to the image. On the small signs (like 8" x 8") it really makes a distinct look. On this one (32" x 36) the depth didn't show up nearly as well as I had wanted to, but it still has a unique look to it since it has depth and you are looking at it through the plexi.

 

[John L]

We make door signs just the way you are describing (cnc router here though) but we use either the Rustoleum Plastic Paint -or- if we cannot get the correct color in that, we will use the lacryl paints made for plastic mixed in custom match colors. But any of the above, once it's on clear acrylic, it's on for good. Any attempt to remove is gonna make a visual hott mess.

 

[TyrantDesigner]

When I do back sprayed acrylic panels, if any of the paint gets to the front I just use a little wd-40 that I spray on a work rag ... rubs right off.