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New router build CRP4848 4x4 Kit

luehrslogistics

New Member
I've been debating the 4x8 myself.... how easy is it to take the 4x4 to 4x8?


I'm not sure. Before purchasing I asked if it could be done but I haven't seem anybody document an upgrade to a 4x8. Ideally one could just couple the rack and extrusion components (rather than replacing them with longer ones) but I'm not sure if its feasible to have everything line up properly.

For now I've done what I could by building the bigger table and getting longer cables and I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
 

luehrslogistics

New Member
Installing the gantry...
 

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CES020

New Member
You might want to rethink that wood frame. We have rigidity issues with a angle iron frame. Just thought I'd throw that out there early on to give you something to think about. I took my entire table off and thought I'd machine the angle iron base nice and flat before putting a new table on. I was shocked at how weak the supports were, even though they are pretty beefy angle iron. So weak I couldn't machine it because the vibration was too bad. I'd also put some support under the middle of the table as well.

I think you've got a great start, but consider a stronger frame. The problem it's going to cause is that you'll be using carbide tooling and carbide is very hard and brittle. It doesn't like to flex or have any vibration. Those two things will make it chip or break more easily than it would if you were more rigid. None of it's going to be an issue when you're cutting Sintra, it's not going to be an issue.

Just depends on what you plan to use it for.
 

skyhigh

New Member
You might want to rethink that wood frame. We have rigidity issues with a angle iron frame. Just thought I'd throw that out there early on to give you something to think about. I took my entire table off and thought I'd machine the angle iron base nice and flat before putting a new table on. I was shocked at how weak the supports were, even though they are pretty beefy angle iron. So weak I couldn't machine it because the vibration was too bad. I'd also put some support under the middle of the table as well.

I think you've got a great start, but consider a stronger frame. The problem it's going to cause is that you'll be using carbide tooling and carbide is very hard and brittle. It doesn't like to flex or have any vibration. Those two things will make it chip or break more easily than it would if you were more rigid. None of it's going to be an issue when you're cutting Sintra, it's not going to be an issue.

Just depends on what you plan to use it for.

+1 to your entire post. Was thinking the same when I first saw this thread a while back. It wasn't until I saw the metal rails & gantry, that it reminded me of building a brick home on a wooden pole building foundation.

I may eat my words after you've had a chance to use it....but.....I think you are going to be very disappointed in the performance on that 2x4 frame.

Just my 2 cents. Good luck, and I hope I'm wrong. Dudos on the DIY.
 

luehrslogistics

New Member
You might want to rethink that wood frame. We have rigidity issues with a angle iron frame. Just thought I'd throw that out there early on to give you something to think about. I took my entire table off and thought I'd machine the angle iron base nice and flat before putting a new table on. I was shocked at how weak the supports were, even though they are pretty beefy angle iron. So weak I couldn't machine it because the vibration was too bad. I'd also put some support under the middle of the table as well.

I think you've got a great start, but consider a stronger frame. The problem it's going to cause is that you'll be using carbide tooling and carbide is very hard and brittle. It doesn't like to flex or have any vibration. Those two things will make it chip or break more easily than it would if you were more rigid. None of it's going to be an issue when you're cutting Sintra, it's not going to be an issue.

Just depends on what you plan to use it for.

I'm hoping the wood base will work out as many of the documented builds on these kits:

http://www.cncrouterparts.com/cnc-router-parts-kit-builds-c-23_33.html

used a wood base. I should probably read those threads more thoroughly, including their use of the cnc after assembly; maybe people are having more problems with vibration than I realize. There's plenty of room for more cross bracing once I figure how all my electronics and ductwork will be routed so I can beef it up accordingly. Of course if it seems that's just a band-aid I'll just bite the bullet and go metal.

Back to assembly later today...
 

CES020

New Member
I'm not suggesting you can't use it, but just throwing it out there in case you have issues in the future.

The problem we have, is that we cut on a spoilboard that starts off at 3/4" thick. It's a light weight "MDF" (the L is for light, the M for medium). What happens is that just pulling a vacuum through that material pulls humidity out and it moves all over the place. The goal is always to just barely cut through the work, but you can surface the table, put work on it immediately and over an hour, the table won't be flat any longer because it's compressing the table and drying it out. If my table is doing that with humidity, I wouldn't want my frame doing it too (not to mention the torque of the motors on the frame). Although, there is no vacuum being pulled through the frame, but it's wood, so it would still move around with moisture.

I'm very unsatisfied with our frame, and it's steel. The frame is a very important part of consistency. Again, it might not be an issue for what you plan to do with it. I'm only saying this for informational purposes, not to suggest you're doing anything incorrect.

None of what I said is going to keep the machine from cutting, but it's the small things like that, that will make the quality of your cuts better. It's easy for people to post examples online, but if you see the examples of the edge quality on something like you posted compared to a MultiCam, it's probably going to be quite different. Yes, they both cut the shape out, but one will have a better quality edge, which may or may not matter for your application.
 

rjssigns

Active Member
After looking at the wood frame I got to thinking. A torsion box on top of a wooden frame would give you more than enough rigidity.
 

Out There

New Member
Have you got that thing up and running?

Thinking about picking up the CRP2448 this next month and was wondering how yours was working out.
 
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