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Optically Clear Laminate for Window Perf?

eahicks

Magna Cum Laude - School of Hard Knocks
3M 8518 has a synthetic liner like Oracal's 290 so basically it could be fine to use it ('never tried)

290G and 290GF is the same film except the release liner. If it's good for Oracal, chances are 3M figured out the same formula...

Wow no... the liner doesn't make it optically clear. Hold up a peeled off piece of 290 and 290GF and you'll see the difference. 290GF is clear. 8518 is super murky when you look through it.


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CSOCSO

I don't hate paint, I just overlay it.
8518 is murky???? 8518 is just as clear as 1360z (avery)
8518 is a cast material with synthetic liner. It is clear.
8508 is a calendered lam with paper liner and it is murcy.
there is NOTHING wrong with 8518. you can perfectly see through it
look at these pictures. attaching an inside view and proof that it is indeed laminated!
you can count the leafs on the palm tree!
laminated perf also needs to set. this was a fresh install. It looks a lot better days later. All the squeegee marks will go away too. ( can't really see that on these pictures)

for some reason, i cant upload a file no matter how small i make it

20170518_141628_HDR.jpg

20170518_141628_HDR.jpg
 

Bly

New Member
We just went through a roll of 8518 for one way vision laminate.
It is clear but a little too stiff to apply to windows with compound curves for our liking.
I might try an avery wrap lam like 1460 next time.
 

Patentagosse

New Member
Wow no... the liner doesn't make it optically clear. Hold up a peeled off piece of 290 and 290GF and you'll see the difference. 290GF is clear. 8518 is super murky when you look through it.


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Oracal rep told me it's the exact same film otherwise it would has been called differently. The glossy synthetic liner probably smooth the adhesive better than the paper-backed one.

I'm not scientist...
 

CSOCSO

I don't hate paint, I just overlay it.
Just saw this window perf today. this is what the froggy juice does exactly. dirty lines
I don't use them no more since i got my own shop but when i used it we waited till it dries but the dirt builds up in weeks anyway.

20170927_082358_Burst01.jpg
 

boxerbay

New Member
Oracal 290GF is what you want to use. its optically clear and has the best price point @ .77. Clear Focus Clear lam is .30 cheaper but its horrible. CF its a polyester so its hard and brittle so it creases easily and the adhesion is crappy. Also, you cant hit it with heat or else it will shrivel quicker than a polar plunge swimmers pee pee. not worth the hassle.
 

juan.runnells

Production Manager Wide Format
why would you clear perf? even IF it is optically clear its not like your going to work it into every small hold on the print...I just dont see the point (not being snarky)
When you laminate perf, the laminator will push it into the holes.

Even with optically clear, right after install it will not look perfectly clear. This is because the laminate has not had a chance to settle.

Once you give the laminate a day or two, it will actually flatten out and pop back from the perforation holes which enhance the optics of the laminate.

I use DOL1360Z but that's because we do vehicle wraps every day and I like my laminate shade to match my vehicle prints. So I use the same for wrap vinyl as for perforated.

Obviously if I'm doing flat business windows I will use a more affordable optically clear option.

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Corwin Steeves

Large format printer to the stars
We just had a vehicle come back yesterday for repairs on the back window. The perf holes are "popping". I guess the air is trapped between the glass and the lamination (8518). Hot air expands and then they pop.

kia.jpg


So you don't laminate the perf, it's easy to scratch and the holes fill with dirt. You do laminate and you get these types of issues. What's the right answer??
 

CSOCSO

I don't hate paint, I just overlay it.
Never even seen anything like that before. It looks like the perf also coming up and it was also trimmed wrong....
 

Corwin Steeves

Large format printer to the stars
Never even seen anything like that before. It looks like the perf also coming up and it was also trimmed wrong....

Yea, our installer didn't use tape around the edges, but this wrap will be 5 years come November, so all in all I'm not that irritated with them, but now I check that it was done correctly every time.
 

boxerbay

New Member
there is no way the heat will expand the air enough to pop 8518 vinyl. the installer poked holes in it the get the air bubbles out. 8518 is not optically clear.
 

Stacey K

I like making signs
I spray mine with automotive clear. Been doing it for years. YMMV
It's been a while since you responded to this post LOL So, are you just using a spray can of clear auto sealer such as Rustoleum? Taping the window off and spraying or do you use an auto sprayer? Just curious. Thanks!
 

rjssigns

Active Member
It's been a while since you responded to this post LOL So, are you just using a spray can of clear auto sealer such as Rustoleum? Taping the window off and spraying or do you use an auto sprayer? Just curious. Thanks!

Lately I've been using 8887 Cut-In Clear in a spray can. It's a NAPA/Martin Senour product. Before that it was Sherwin-Williams Kut-In Klear.

After the ink dries I thumbtack the print to a wall and spray two light coats. Just enough so you can see a wet shine. I apply next day. Never had any call backs and we sent graphics all over the US, Virgin Islands, and spots in the Caribbean.

I always ask the client if vision is a priority. Those get optically clear lam. Got one to do this week as a matter of fact.

If you have more questions just ask.
 

GaSouthpaw

Profane and profane accessories.
3M 8518 has a synthetic liner like Oracal's 290 so basically it could be fine to use it ('never tried)

290G and 290GF is the same film except the release liner. If it's good for Oracal, chances are 3M figured out the same formula...
8518 may be gloss laminate, but it is not promoted as optically clear. There's a difference. 3M's optically clear laminate is 8914.
 

Stacey K

I like making signs
Lately I've been using 8887 Cut-In Clear in a spray can. It's a NAPA/Martin Senour product. Before that it was Sherwin-Williams Kut-In Klear.

After the ink dries I thumbtack the print to a wall and spray two light coats. Just enough so you can see a wet shine. I apply next day. Never had any call backs and we sent graphics all over the US, Virgin Islands, and spots in the Caribbean.

I always ask the client if vision is a priority. Those get optically clear lam. Got one to do this week as a matter of fact.

If you have more questions just ask.
Thank you! We have a Napa store a couple miles away, just ordered some for ship-to-store.
 
Another reason to laminated, in Florida the Western sun is BRUTAL, we laminate graphics that are west facing so that they will last longer, it makes a big difference.
 

JBurton

Signtologist
Another reason to laminated, in Florida the Western sun is BRUTAL, we laminate graphics that are west facing so that they will last longer, it makes a big difference.
Have you figured out how to get the customer to keep the rear of the vehicle facing North?
 
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