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Oxidised surfaces

FireSprint.com

Trade Only Screen & Digital Sign Printing
For years I've used fans to keep toxic and hazardous chemicals and airborne pollutants away from my face. Hundreds of times I have been working and realized that I suddenly started to inhaled something that I shouldn't have, and every time...

Scott

Why doesn't anyone use a respirator? Not to mention long gloves and chemical eye protection.

I feel like sign guys in general have some kind of death wish. :banghead:
 

ICeMAnAbk

New Member
Tell them of the risks, if it's something pricey, have them sign a paper agreeing that it "may" cause a problem with their paint but they are aware of the risks and will not hold you accountable.

Soap and water.... wipe the surface dry. feel wit your fingers if the surface has a grainy feel. if anything use a promotion cal and see how well a sample strip sticks. Sticks good, peel off sideways (not away from the surface), then apply your graphic.

I've lettered a lot of oxidized surfaces, I've lettered on freshly painted surfaces a few hours after coming out of a paint booth. Never tracked a vehicle, never ripped a chunck of paint off, and sure the heck, never wiped any type of paint thinner products on soft paint or oxidized paint. it's suicide. You may have gotten away with it in the past but that's probably because whomever painted it did a thick coat. I wouldn't push my luck with all these other crazy options either. I saw Windex mentioned, if it's worked, you're lucky, because Windex & other glass cleaners usually contain ammonia which causes issues with vinyl adhesives.
 

MikeD

New Member
chemicals or abrasive

I think the safest method would be to use a pressure washer, or even a sandblaster with walnut abrasive. On the other hand, I am wondering why the customer wants to put vinyl on a degraded piece of metal without having a body shop repaint it first. If there is visible rust, there are most likely other spots that are hidden; could even be rusted on the other side. If the rust isn't totally taken care of, it will eventually come back.
How about a little stainless steel- steel wool to get the big chunks off and then spray a little bit of rust converter on the rest. After that dries, apply the vinyl.
Good Luck!
 

visual800

Active Member
I think the safest method would be to use a pressure washer, or even a sandblaster with walnut abrasive. On the other hand, I am wondering why the customer wants to put vinyl on a degraded piece of metal without having a body shop repaint it first. If there is visible rust, there are most likely other spots that are hidden; could even be rusted on the other side. If the rust isn't totally taken care of, it will eventually come back.
How about a little stainless steel- steel wool to get the big chunks off and then spray a little bit of rust converter on the rest. After that dries, apply the vinyl.
Good Luck!

pressure washer does nothing to oxidation and as far as sandblasting with walnut shells I can only imagine how the client would freak out after you you explain we need to do that before we letter vehicle.

I tell you what instaed of all these ludacris "non-happening" ideas why dont you just suggest to client you will have the whole body replaced from the factory, hows that sound:ROFLMAO:
 
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