Perferated reversve print and stick is it possible?

[webguy]

I have a customer who wants me to install the perforated vinyl with print but wants it stuck on the inside. With regular vinyl I can just cut in reverse and stick it on the inside of the window. I didn't know if there was a way I can do it with the perforated material. Can someone advise?
They basically want the printed perforated material stuck on the inside of the window so no one on the outside can rip it off or vandalize the sign.

Thanks.

 

[ProColorGraphics]

Fellers has a material called PanoFilm. It is a perforated film without adhesive. You print it like normal, then use a optically clear 2-sided tape, similar to banner hem tape, to mount it on the inside.

It is on P.27 of there 2014 catalog.

 

[Graphic Destruction]

There was a reverse perf product that I saw at the Orlando show in April. I didn't pay too much attention to it because it's not latex friendly, but I think it was Neschen that came out with it. Try searching their products.

 

[jfiscus]

Fellers sells it, I have had issues with Mimaki solvent ink not drying on it and transferring to the window.
I have printed on it with an Epson GS6000 without ink transfer/drying issues. It could just be a profile issue, but wanted to throw it out there.

 

[niksagkram]

GeckoGrip. Printed some with my Roland EcoSolvent, didn't have any issues, but haven't sold any yet so.......................


Made by DAF http://www.dafproducts.com/Inside Mount Window Film.htm


Mark

 

[SignMeUpGraphics]

http://www.contravision.com/product-finder/products/contra-vision-sprint/

 

[shoresigns]

Does anyone have experience with this type of material? I would think the exposed adhesive in the perforated holes would become a problem.

 

[J Hill Designs]

Does anyone have experience with this type of material? I would think the exposed adhesive in the perforated holes would become a problem.

laminate it

 

[guitarguy69]

Panofilm for the win. Use 2-3 rolls per month, and apply a thin strip of permanent/re-useable tape on the edges.
Pano-tape is also a viable option, but it does not adhere as well.

 

[petepaz]

my sales rep from N. Glantz told me they have a perf material that you front print for inside window cling. the surface has like little suction cups and you print right on it then stick it to the window. haven't used it nor do i know the pricing but that sounds like it would work for your application.

 

[J Hill Designs]

my sales rep from N. Glantz told me they have a perf material that you front print for inside window cling. the surface has like little suction cups and you print right on it then stick it to the window. haven't used it nor do i know the pricing but that sounds like it would work for your application.

probably Glass Adhere

 

[OADesign]

Print on clear.

What I have done is this:

Busted out the micrometer and measured the holes and spacing.
Used these measurements to design a pattern that matched the perf hole size/density I needed.
Printed the image, face down on clear (Flatbed).
Then printed another pass in black only. Has the same impact/function as normal first surface perf.

The only issue: Designing the image.
My panels were 4'x6'. Even though it was all vector graphics, because of all the little shapes, my files were massive. Took a long time to layout and a very long time to save (every time, every mouse click).
And before you say it, the machine I design on at the shop: 32GB ram, solid state drives, i7-3770k @ 3.5GHz. So the horse power is there. Just created really complex files. I designed the per pattern in Illustrator.
I guess I could have done the same in flexisign, but I had to turn this quick and I couldn't think through a good process for flexi fast enough.
God bless you if you have to do this with any raster images.

Check out the pics of the process and the end result. It came out pretty good I think.

 

[niksagkram]

Does anyone have experience with this type of material? I would think the exposed adhesive in the perforated holes would become a problem.

The GeckoGrip perforated vinyl does NOT have adhesive. Apparently it is made up of thousands of little "suction cup" type material. It can be re-applied many times, just have to keep the printed side as clean as possible. No laminating is needed.

Mark

 

[niksagkram]

my sales rep from N. Glantz told me they have a perf material that you front print for inside window cling. the surface has like little suction cups and you print right on it then stick it to the window. haven't used it nor do i know the pricing but that sounds like it would work for your application.

GECKO GRIP!!!! :Big Laugh

 

[shoresigns]

The only issue: Designing the image.
My panels were 4'x6'. Even though it was all vector graphics, because of all the little shapes, my files were massive. Took a long time to layout and a very long time to save (every time, every mouse click).
And before you say it, the machine I design on at the shop: 32GB ram, solid state drives, i7-3770k @ 3.5GHz. So the horse power is there. Just created really complex files. I designed the per pattern in Illustrator.
I guess I could have done the same in flexisign, but I had to turn this quick and I couldn't think through a good process for flexi fast enough.
God bless you if you have to do this with any raster images.

What, did you copy and paste all the dots to make a pattern? You could have saved yourself a lot of time if you made use of Illustrator's Pattern function to create your pattern. There's no noticeable delay in rendering it or editing your artwork, unless you expand the fill, then in my case Illustrator runs out of memory and crashes.

 

[OADesign]

What, did you copy and paste all the dots to make a pattern? You could have saved yourself a lot of time if you made use of Illustrator's Pattern function to create your pattern. There's no noticeable delay in rendering it or editing your artwork, unless you expand the fill, then in my case Illustrator runs out of memory and crashes.

This is exactly what I did. Built a custom pattern with illustrator (CS6). It still moved slow. Even before I expanded the fill. Which I had to do. I had to do it this way to make a mask out of the dot pattern. I had to make sure the dots were voids and not just white. Because the image contained white also, I didn't want the white dots to print.

 

[what the]

amazing

What I have done is this:

Busted out the micrometer and measured the holes and spacing.
Used these measurements to design a pattern that matched the perf hole size/density I needed.
Printed the image, face down on clear (Flatbed).
Then printed another pass in black only. Has the same impact/function as normal first surface perf.

The only issue: Designing the image.
My panels were 4'x6'. Even though it was all vector graphics, because of all the little shapes, my files were massive. Took a long time to layout and a very long time to save (every time, every mouse click).
And before you say it, the machine I design on at the shop: 32GB ram, solid state drives, i7-3770k @ 3.5GHz. So the horse power is there. Just created really complex files. I designed the per pattern in Illustrator.
I guess I could have done the same in flexisign, but I had to turn this quick and I couldn't think through a good process for flexi fast enough.
God bless you if you have to do this with any raster images.

Check out the pics of the process and the end result. It came out pretty good I think.

Pretty cool!! I thought of this a while ago but never thought I could have patience...Awesome job!!!
Thanks for the post!
Amber

 

[Andy D]

What I have done is this:


The only issue: Designing the image.
My panels were 4'x6'. Even though it was all vector graphics, because of all the little shapes, my files were massive. Took a long time to layout and a very long time to save (every time, every mouse click).
And before you say it, the machine I design on at the shop: 32GB ram, solid state drives, i7-3770k @ 3.5GHz. So the horse power is there. Just created really complex files. I designed the per pattern in Illustrator.
.

I would think the thing to do is create a photo shop master file with just a layer of white dots and create your prints via Photoshop so you don't have all those vector nodes...

 

[OADesign]

I would think the thing to do is create a photo shop master file with just a layer of white dots and create your prints via Photoshop so you don't have all those vector nodes...

Right...
But the image it self has white. So the dots need to be voids. Zero color. Remember that the goal was to print on clear with white inks. So a file with white dots would defeat the purpose. Plus at the size the dots would need to be it would not produce a clean result.

 

[Andy D]

Right...
But the image it self has white. So the dots need to be voids. Zero color. Remember that the goal was to print on clear with white inks. So a file with white dots would defeat the purpose. Plus at the size the dots would need to be it would not produce a clean result.

I'm not sure what rip program you use but when I have to set up something with clear spot on a print
with white in it I set the clear up as a another color like magenta and then change it in the rip program...

I would think if the resolution was set high enough you would be good....