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Printing on Reflective

Patentagosse

New Member
Printing with Roland printers since 2004, I have a long-term experience with this ink / vinyl film combo. My profile is tweaked to be generous (saturated... just enough) so it build-up a considerable coat of ink when I'm printing (traffic signs, vehicle wraps...) Sure a proper drying time is required but my jobs are standing out for color vibrancy and even more passed the 5 years expected. Some of other local shops use the same printer but their prints turns dull after like 3 years. Maybe they convert their ink system to 3rd party, maybe they cheap on material quality or don't laminate, I don't know but one thing is sure, my black will last for 7-10 years no problem.

There's also a difference in printing 0 0 0 100K and 30 30 30 100K to boost black density...

Just saying...
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Printing with Roland printers since 2004, I have a long-term experience with this ink / vinyl film combo. My profile is tweaked to be generous (saturated... just enough) so it build-up a considerable coat of ink when I'm printing (traffic signs, vehicle wraps...) Sure a proper drying time is required but my jobs are standing out for color vibrancy and even more passed the 5 years expected. Some of other local shops use the same printer but their prints turns dull after like 3 years. Maybe they convert their ink system to 3rd party, maybe they cheap on material quality or don't laminate, I don't know but one thing is sure, my black will last for 7-10 years no problem.

There's also a difference in printing 0 0 0 100K and 30 30 30 100K to boost black density...

Just saying...


There's also the consideration of which direction the signs are facing. Another factor is how far North you are compared to most shops on this forum. Many natural factors must be taken into the equation, as well as inks, materials, substrates and other incidentals.
 

Patentagosse

New Member
There's also the consideration of which direction the signs are facing. Another factor is how far North you are compared to most shops on this forum. Many natural factors must be taken into the equation, as well as inks, materials, substrates and other incidentals.

You're right Gino
 

Gary Wiant

New Member
Pennsylvania is crazy particular they even tell you how fast the saw needs to be to cut out the aluminum.

It's not bad to be authorized / certified you just need to file an application (it's been around 15 or 20 years since I did this so I can't remember the cost) and send them 2 full sized signs for them to evaluate. 1 must be a legend sign and 1 must be a text sign. If I remember correctly I did a deer crossing for my legend sign and a no passing zone sign for my sign with text. You don't get your signs back either, at least we didn't years ago
 

SALVATORE

New Member
I'm aware of the Regulation, thanks to bring them up anyway! and Yes, Pennsylvania is very particular with it.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Ya know, PA is even like that with their food and local growing of produce and such.

I wanted to sell tomatoes to the state and they said they would not accept any tomatoes under 8 pounds. I told them, I ain't cutting my tomatoes in half for anyone, not even you. :rolleyes:
 

boxerbay

New Member
for general reflective signs we use 3MIJ5100 with GF231 laminate. If it is for municipal street signs you need to look at the specs. Here in Miami they must be diamond grade.
 

Megagrafix

President
First off I see your in Pa if you are doing street signs you need to obtain a PDT# (PENNSYLVANIA DEPT of TRANSPORTATION) this is absolutely required for all state roads and by most townships and cities. When you sign up you have to get approval based on your equipment, I seriously doubt an eco solvent will be on their list. And substraights and vinyls are HIGHLY regulated.

On a side note, I cannot figure out why people try to find cheaper alternatives or shortcuts for outdoor products. You aren't the one paying for the material your customer is & I'd bet if you asked them if they want their perminant sign to be constructed with the best product that will definately last the longest or a cheaper product that will fail years prior for a couple dollars less, I'd be shocked if they would pick the cheaper.
Going to a lower priced substrate rarely reduces the overall pricing. Use the best!
 

Gary Wiant

New Member
I agree the costs difference in the end isn't really much at all. Then add the extra cost of installing inferior products to the realism that the product won't last as long and the cost of replacing the job if or when it fails.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 
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