Suggestions re-installing stud mounted acrylic lettering

[petepaz]

have a customer that moved in to a new location and they took their old stud mounted acrylic lettering with them for the new location and i have to re-install it but i did not do the first install and apparently no one there has any info on who did it.
any tips on marking and drilling the holes correctly or perhaps making a new template

 

[TimToad]

have a customer that moved in to a new location and they took their old stud mounted acrylic lettering with them for the new location and i have to re-install it but i did not do the first install and apparently no one there has any info on who did it.
any tips on marking and drilling the holes correctly or perhaps making a new template

If it's not a custom font, I would recreate the layout on the computer and space it the way it should be and then pen plot or print just the outlines of the letters.

After that, take a really short set of studs and letter by letter, thread them into the backs, lay them over the pattern and gently press to make an impression where the holes should go. The shorter the studs you use, the more accurate it will be.`

 

[Johnny Best]

Layout all of your letters on paper with spacing just the way you want it, trace around each letter. Cut some of the studs down where just 1/4" stick out, place them into the holes in back of letters and place over traced letter. You can put a lenght of cardboard under paper. Press down letter so as holes penetrate paper. Remove letter and pencil a "x" mark where drill hole will go. Repeat for all letters.
Note: I also draw a strait line on the paper for laying out the letters and use that for your level line when taped to wall.

 

[Billct2]

Are they on blocks or threaded directly into letters? If they are flay we trace them (or plot a pattern) and dab the hole with a paint marker and lay in place and push.
If they are blocks we use the shorty stud method.

 

[petepaz]

great thanks for the ideas

 

[TimToad]

Are they on blocks or threaded directly into letters? If they are flay we trace them (or plot a pattern) and dab the hole with a paint marker and lay in place and push.
If they are blocks we use the shorty stud method.

A paint marker is brilliant! I've done it that way with a red Stabilo too and enough wax comes off to show where the hole is.

 

[Malkin]

If on blocks (like Gemini style) you can press them onto an ink pad, then transfer that to your paper pattern.
This tip brought to you by an article I saw in SignCraft.

 

[ChaseO]

Depending on how old the letters are, sometimes it can be difficult to remove them without breaking them, especially if the studs are glued very well. I try to save the customers money whenever possible, but I would warn them that if things don't go smoothly, they may end up needing a new set of letters. If you do get them off cleanly, I think you will have better luck making a new pattern in your shop using the above methods, but if the previous installer did a good job drilling holes, making a pattern from their holes may work well. I'd just pay attention to any studs that fight you coming out so you can adjust your new hole(s).

 

[WhiskeyDreamer]

Make sure if you multiples of the same letter that you mark them somehow because the studs may not be identical.

 

[unclebun]

Of course, when you make your pattern, be sure to set the bottom of every letter on a baseline, even the round ones. That way your installation will match most of the ones I see around here, like inside Wal-Marts.

 

[gnubler]

I'm about to deal with a job like this, except the letters look more like painted brushed aluminum and I have no idea if they are stud mounted or taped on the wall. Any tips on removing without destroying the wall? Wedge a strong pry tool under the letter like a lever to push it up?

 

[JBurton]

Hotel room key cards. Lots of them. I used to collect them to scrape vinyl on site, but the true potential is for pulling rigid letters off a wall that you're afraid to pry on too much. Just start jamming them behind a letter, put one against the wall, and each new one goes between that card and the letters, it only takes about 5 to get around a quarter inch off the wall, breaking the adhesive. It works exceptionally well on thick panels mounting to glass with way too much doublestick.

 

[Scotchbrite]

If you get painted letters from Gemini, they paint over their natural brushed letters so you will see the brushed texture in the paint finish. Whether they are taped or stud mounted will depend on how big they are.

We've used band saw blades cut apart to lay flat to "saw" behind the letters.

 

[JBurton]

We've used band saw blades cut apart to lay flat to "saw" behind the letters.

Now there's a thought. I probably have 150' of used blades hanging up... I don't think I'd recommend this on an interior wall, but for brick with silicone...

 

[Scotchbrite]

Now there's a thought. I probably have 150' of used blades hanging up... I don't think I'd recommend this on an interior wall, but for brick with silicone...

We have a vertical band saw that uses narrow 1/4" wide blades that work really well.

 

[Gino]

Piano wire. Just wear gloves if there are no studs. Studs.... tell them to remove them, cause you don't have insurance t destroy their wall.

 

[JBurton]

Studs.... tell them to remove them, cause you don't have insurance t destroy their wall.

Really? I mean I tell folks all the time their wall will have holes in it, if it's something fancy enough that I'm concerned, I'll jot down on the work order 'customer approved potential damages during removal' and have the sign it. Not a lot to be done about holes that are already there, just hiding behind the letters...

 

[Gino]

I meant if you're gonna use saw blades and whatnot and really mess up the wall.

 

[Moze]

If it's painted drywall, the wall is going to need patch and paint regardless. If they're stud-mounted, it's going to leave holes. If they're tape-mounted, it's going to pull paint and likely some of the drywall facing. It's extremely rare that tape-mounted letters are just going to come off and not damage the wall. Your customer should plan on patch and paint after removal.

I carry a few putty knives and scrapers. One is super thin and flexible. One is a bit thicker and stiffer. One is even thicker and isn't flexible at all. If letters are stud-mounted, I usually use the middle one since it gets behind the letters easier. But if they're stubborn (studs went through metal wall studs, etc.), I use the thickest one and just pry them out. If letters are tape-mounted, I use the thinnest one and try to push through the tape to try not to minimize the damage but often have to move up to one of the other putty knives/scrapers to just pry them off.

 

[gnubler]

Great tips, guys. The letters I'm dealing with are 1/4" thick mounted on drywall, so I'm guessing tape mounted. To find out for sure should I first try what Gino mentioned and run piano wire or something behind a letter to see if it releases? How about fishing line? I don't have piano wire laying around like Gino does (I'm not Italian).