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Roll to Roll UV Printer Purchase

Goatshaver

Goatshaver

Shaving goats and eating bushes
To those that have a mimaki UCJV300. What do you use for blades? The OEM blades are pretty expensive ($130 for 3 blades). Hopefully my machine didn't get any damaged, lighting struck close as I was typing this and I got a shock through my keyboard on my laptop.
Was supposed to have my printer up and calibrating today but they gave me LUS-200 and the rest of the ink was 170 but with this being such a new machine there is not an option to do some ink (white) with the different LUS#.
 
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BenE

New Member
Our company just decided to pull the trigger on the UCJV330-130. Good to know about the blades and the ink.

Hoping things go smoothly as this will be our first printer and a new step in production for us. It's probably an overkill system for our needs, but looking forward to learning how to run it.

We're planning on running a CMYK+2W2C
 
White Haus

White Haus

Not a Newbie
Goatshaver said:
To those that have a mimaki UCJV300. What do you use for blades? The OEM blades are pretty expensive ($130 for 3 blades). Hopefully my machine didn't get any damaged, lighting struck close as I was typing this and I got a shock through my keyboard on my laptop.
Was supposed to have my printer up and calibrating today but they gave me LUS-200 and the rest of the ink was 170 but with this being such a new machine there is not an option to do some ink (white) with the different LUS#.
Click to expand...

We don't use the cutting feature, at all. I ran away from Rasterlink as fast as I could as soon as I used it, we strictly use it as a printer and cut everything through Onyx cutserver on Summa cutters.

So they sent you the wrong ink? We have LUS-170 CMYKLcLm and LUS-200 WW, is that the set up that you're going for?
 
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BenE

New Member
White Haus said:
We don't use the cutting feature, at all. I ran away from Rasterlink as fast as I could as soon as I used it, we strictly use it as a printer and cut everything through Onyx cutserver on Summa cutters.

So they sent you the wrong ink? We have LUS-170 CMYKLcLm and LUS-200 WW, is that the set up that you're going for?
Click to expand...

What are some of the reasons you ran from Rasterlink for cutting? Anything particular I should anticipate before we get our system up and running?
 
Goatshaver

Goatshaver

Shaving goats and eating bushes
White Haus said:
We don't use the cutting feature, at all. I ran away from Rasterlink as fast as I could as soon as I used it, we strictly use it as a printer and cut everything through Onyx cutserver on Summa cutters.

So they sent you the wrong ink? We have LUS-170 CMYKLcLm and LUS-200 WW, is that the set up that you're going for?
Click to expand...
Right now Onyx doesn't support the UCJV330, next update will have drivers so I'll have to learn to use Rasterlink for a short time.

Salesman said if I was going to do anything with wet applications they recommended LUS-200 for the white, but of course the 330s are very new and they all have to be the same LUS right now until some more updated firmware comes out. The 300 you can mix LUS-170 and have white LUS-200 and there is no issue. Not really the wrong ink but the salesman didn't just didn't know. My setup will be CMYK CL CL W W.
 
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Gary Wiant

New Member
We looked at the JV330 but with the only option for ink being 2 Liter "bags" we decided to go with the JV100 so far we are very happy with it. Also the wipers on the 330 are completely different than the past & when I went to look at the 330 I was told Mimaki was back ordered on wipers, I guess they are felt instead of rubber.
 
Goatshaver

Goatshaver

Shaving goats and eating bushes
Gary Wiant said:
We looked at the JV330 but with the only option for ink being 2 Liter "bags" we decided to go with the JV100 so far we are very happy with it. Also the wipers on the 330 are completely different than the past & when I went to look at the 330 I was told Mimaki was back ordered on wipers, I guess they are felt instead of rubber.
Click to expand...
I don't know about the 2 liter ink thing. The bottles are 1 liter and that's all I have the option for. Yeah the 330 series they have switched for a felt roll for the wiper portion, similar kind of system that Epson has for their SureColor printers. The rolls look small so I'm curious to see how long it will last.
 
Goatshaver

Goatshaver

Shaving goats and eating bushes
330 is installed now after the ink mix-up was fixed. However it only ended up leaving me with about 2.5hrs for him to show me how to operate the machine, which is very little. I'm pretty much on my own with the manuals for figuring this out and unless I can get someone else here to help speed up the learning process.
Rasterlink is very confusing, I already can't wait to get back to Onyx.

There is a lot of waiting for these machines. (warming up, switching between print and cut) Definitely not used to it, but the more I get comfortable with using it the better I'll feel about it.
If anyone has any helpful resources on Rasterlink 7 they use or anything related to the UCJV machines for setting up files, printing and cutting, please send it my way. (I've got all the manuals I can get from Mimaki's site, so no need to send that stuff.)
 
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RonnyCrack

New Member
parrott said:
Put the canon Colorado on your list. The new one has white and gloss/matte finish. We have had ours about a year and it has been great.
Click to expand...
Are you able to emboss the gloss/matte finish? Whether through laying down thicker ink or just multiple passes? I've heard pullback/multiple passes on the colorado is not super accurate.
 
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RonnyCrack

New Member
Goatshaver said:
To those that have a mimaki UCJV300. What do you use for blades? The OEM blades are pretty expensive ($130 for 3 blades). Hopefully my machine didn't get any damaged, lighting struck close as I was typing this and I got a shock through my keyboard on my laptop.
Was supposed to have my printer up and calibrating today but they gave me LUS-200 and the rest of the ink was 170 but with this being such a new machine there is not an option to do some ink (white) with the different LUS#.
Click to expand...
Amazon china blades, I got 3 for $15 and with one pack, they've lasted longer than 3 packs of OEM blades combined.
 
Pauly

Pauly

Printrade.com.au
RonnyCrack said:
Sheesh I guess it was 15 blades for $13.99 lol I don't think I've gone through a full pack yet.

15Pcs Replacement Blades for mimaki Cutter Plotter Vinyl 30 Degree 45 Degree 60 Degree Cutting Plotter Blades https://a.co/d/00geekSp
Click to expand...
Difference between OEM blades & chinese is that the OEM are heat treated & will last a lot longer than the chinese which are not heat treated.
 
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RonnyCrack

New Member
Pauly said:
Difference between OEM blades & chinese is that the OEM are heat treated & will last a lot longer than the chinese which are not heat treated.
Click to expand...
I have the exact opposite experience, with the Chinese blades both lasting longer and being 10-20x cheaper
 
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RonnyCrack

New Member
Pauly said:
How long are they lasting ?
Click to expand...
On OEM, usually a month or two before I have to turn the cut pressure to a ridiculous level like 110g~ for kiss cuts, 250g~ on perf

Think I've had the same china blade in the cutting arm for easily the last 6 months, and I haven't changed cut pressure in the last 4 months topping out at 70-80g for kiss cuts depending on how thick the ink is, and 210g for perf which is probably still overkill but works well for me.

For reference I start a new blade at 40-50g for kiss cuts on my gloss white and holographic, and 100-150g for perf. I only swap em out when they stop working/continue to degrade to a point where it hurts output.

I've cut out thousands of pages/sqft of stickers/labels on these blades without switching, or changing cut pressure, which I can't say for the OEMs that cost $100-150 for a 3 pack.
 
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PeteDuMond

New Member
Goatshaver said:
330 is installed now after the ink mix-up was fixed. However it only ended up leaving me with about 2.5hrs for him to show me how to operate the machine, which is very little. I'm pretty much on my own with the manuals for figuring this out and unless I can get someone else here to help speed up the learning process.
Rasterlink is very confusing, I already can't wait to get back to Onyx.

There is a lot of waiting for these machines. (warming up, switching between print and cut) Definitely not used to it, but the more I get comfortable with using it the better I'll feel about it.
If anyone has any helpful resources on Rasterlink 7 they use or anything related to the UCJV machines for setting up files, printing and cutting, please send it my way. (I've got all the manuals I can get from Mimaki's site, so no need to send that stuff.)
Click to expand...
Did you have any luck finding good resources for Rasterlink 7. We just had our UCJV330 installed last week.
 
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