Routing grooves in 4x4 wood post

[Texas_Signmaker]

I have an order to make a site sign, and the specs look like they're from the 1980's. I have to cut a groove in two wood posts so the MDO sign board can fit in them w/ lag bolts. What kind of tool should I get to cut the groove?

 

[Scotchbrite]

I have an order to make a site sign, and the specs look like they're from the 1980's. I have to cut a groove in two wood posts so the MDO sign board can fit in them w/ lag bolts. What kind of tool should I get to cut the groove?

You can get a "dado" blade for a circular saw. We have a table mounted saw we use for that.

 

[Gino]

Get yourself a nice hand-held router with a little oomph. You might need to take 2 or 3 psses. To do one post in treated lumber, it will take about 10 minutes.

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

Are those clamps on the sides to keep it straight on the 4x4?

Scotchbrite.. nice tip, I don't have a table saw though.

 

[Gino]

Oh, and I don't use lags. 3" deck screws are more than fine.

 

[Gino]

If that's directed towards me, the metal one is a fence. The wooden one is on on there to keep it level while in storage and keep the bit from hitting anything.

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

ok thanks. a router is what I thought I needed. I figured the cost of the tool when bidding this job... adding to my dewalt collection

 

[Notarealsignguy]

They have edge guides or just clamp a straight edge to it if using a router. You won't be able to freehand it. Use a flute bit

 

[Gino]

Get a big enough one. Don't try and go through in one swipe. Mine's old, but something nice is to have a step gauge on it. That way, you can pre-set your 3 heights for each pass. Use a 5/8" bit. 9/16" won't do it.They're loud, too and make a lotta dirt. One last thing, be sure there are no splinters sticking up for 2 reasons. You don't want your guide hitting it and throwing ya off, but more so..... I always straddle the post for added weight and those splitters could hurt if they go into ya. Ask me how I know.

 

[Adam Vreeke]

... adding to my dewalt collection

Pretty soon they will need to give you a ride in their racecar or helicopter or something, seeing as how you probably paid for it

 

[Gino]

Oh yeah, make it a plunge router..... and get a plunge straight router bit. Get several bits and be prepared.

 

[Stacey K]

I do the same thing Gino does and I have the DeWalt one but the smaller version. I have used the table saw but I'm scared of it so I prefer the router.

 

[2B]

Agreed, a DADO blade in a Table Saw is best.

A router will also work, either with a router table or a guide rail for handheld

 

[signage]

If you have circular saw you can do it, no reason to make the customer buy you a tool!

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

If you have circular saw you can do it, no reason to make the customer buy you a tool!

Ok...how do you do it with a circular saw?

 

[signage]

Use your fence or whatever and make sever cut inside the area you want removed! then use a screw drive to brake away the thin pieces left!

What you are basically making is a mortise and the sign would be the tenon.

 

[signage]

Hey Gino I have done this many times This is the way it was done before routes came along, you can also use a drill and a chisel! I thought you were in this business for a long time. You should have know this

 

[Gino]

The customer doesn't hafta buy it. We're talking $250 or $300. Why not buy a router ?? It'll come in handy for so many things. Be a great investment, regardless of who buys it.

His method is making an outside cut, then, an inside cut and a few more and then you chisel the middle out. That is silly, unless you just bought a saw yesterday and wanna find things ya never wanna do again. Ya might as well use your teeth or buy a beaver.

And no, you are not making a mortise joint. This is not furniture 101. He's making a 48" rout down a treated wooden post. Your method will eventually work, but you'll need half a morning, and then it still won't be right. Either a dado or router are the only real ways to do this. Even a CNC machine would be difficult.Get out of the 1800s and step into the 21st century, sparky.

 

[Notarealsignguy]

I have a router and table saw, I used the table saw for things like this and no dado blade. With a table saw set your depth and just run back and forth moving the fence little by little. If its a circular saw, use a guide on the 2 outside cuts and then freehand cuts in between. A chisel is helpful to pop out the middle and make the passes a little wider. The router is nice but hogging that out makes a big ass mess and covers you in fine dust. It's nice to have a trim router and then a horse like Ginos. Mine could take that out in 1-2 passes
Another thing tex, don't let that router jump out of your hand. They have a lot of power, it might spin you around in circles.

 

[Gino]

I have 3 routers. All for doing different things, but the big one would do that in 3 passes, and maybe 2, but why tax the motor to save 2 minutes per post ?? Seriously, if time is yur thing, it takes a few seonds to make a mark to where your flange is gonna go. You turn on the router and go down in about a minute...... unless the wood is super wet. About a minute for each pass.

As for a table saw, I have a lotta respect for them and maybe it's me or I just don't trust my table, but running a 10' or 12' post through with the weight distribution isn't something I'm always comfortable with, so the router it is.

I'd like to see someone rout a 5/8" x 1.5" deep rout in two 10' treated posts with a table saw or as some here thought a circular saw in 10 or 12 minutes and have a decent product in the end.