Texas_Signmaker
Very Active Signmaker
Seems to be OK. I did three passes and was able to keep kind of straight.
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Routing grooves in 4x4 wood post
- Thread starter Texas_Signmaker
- Start date
Gino
Premium Subscriber
That doesn't look deep enough. For a 1/2" 4' x 8' panel, going into grooved posts, those grooves should be about 1.5" deep. Where'd you get that old looking post or is that the junk practice piece ??
Keeping it straight is like I said, keeping safety in mind first..... but concentrate on keeping that fence up against the post.
Keeping it straight is like I said, keeping safety in mind first..... but concentrate on keeping that fence up against the post.
Texas_Signmaker
Very Active Signmaker
Got it, I'll make it 1.5". That is an old practice piece.
Notarealsignguy
Arial - it's almost helvetica
Te
Tex that dinky thing looks like something your wife would use to build a bird house.
Texas_Signmaker
Very Active Signmaker
The batteries last long.. I'm always surprised with how much power I get out of them. Get an 8ah battery for your saw.
GAC05
Quit buggin' me
I have that same router - but different shoes.
Simple routing table from a guy that really knows wood:
Notarealsignguy
Arial - it's almost helvetica
Real tools have cords. This battery crap is great for convenience on little nonsense. We re-deck a lot of semi trailers, those cordless things, even with the fat batteries, dont hold up. I have a worm gear saw, it's backwards handed and it cuts anything, we've beat the shit out of it for years, ripping thick hardwood, leave it out in the rain whatever and it's still good. I have to replace my battery crap once every other year at best. I also have a battery powered trim router, it's fine for squaring up Formica or little stuff but after a few tasks it's done. My corded router will cut my house in half and be ready to go for the next job as soon as you're ready.
Scotchbrite
No comment
I'll never go back from my cordless circular saw. Granted I'm not a heavy user. It's quieter, don't have to wrestle with the cord, and I like that as soon as you release the trigger it stops.
Notarealsignguy
Arial - it's almost helvetica
You're not ripping 40' lengths of 2" oak with a battery saw that's for sure, even my big saw doesn't like it. I have a cordless and a corded sawzall, the cordless is good for a few cuts but I tend to get the corded one so I'm not stuck in the air halfway through a cut when the battery gives out. I do like a battery powered drill for screws because it stops when you let go. Same goes for drilling in tight spots, an electric one will break your hand if it binds up in the wrong spot.
GAC05
Quit buggin' me
Agreed, corded hand drills are not for the limp-wristed fellas
McDonald Signs
McDonald Signs & Graphics
Dado Blade on a Table Saw
Moze
Active Member
Every major cordless tool manufacturer has a circular saw that will easily rip anything you throw at it - including oak.
For pretty much any corded tool, there's a cordless version that performs as well as, or usually better, than the corded version. Almost all tools now are brushless and produce more torque/speed/performance than brushed tools.
The little cordless router Texas_Signmaker bought is small but it's a beast. Once he was set up, he probably cut that groove in less than a minute.
Notarealsignguy
Arial - it's almost helvetica
Sure but I have to do it more than once. Cordless isn't getting it done
Moze
Active Member
Just curious, why are you ripping multiple 40' lengths of oak with a circular saw and not a table saw?
Notarealsignguy
Arial - it's almost helvetica
It's faster, pop a chalk line, slide it off the edge of the trailer and make the run. It's not Amish furniture.
It's actually apitong which is harder than oak. We did 1-2 trailer re-decks a week for about 2 years. Then the material supply dried up so we stopped offering it which sucked. We just did one in 2" rough cut PT pine, the real PT not the home Depot Thompson's dipped crap. That stuff was heavy but still not dense like the hardwoods.