sc500 No Magenta on test print.

[lodcomm]

Hello Folks,

I setup my sc500, primed the ink lines and dampers - and ran a few powerful cleanings. My black/cyan/yellow appear to be test printing fine However I appear to be getting no magenta at all on the test prints or attempting to send a red solid square. I am assuming the print head(s) are clogged? - can someone point me in the proper direction for troubleshooting the missing magenta.

thanks!

-todd

 

[Baz]

Check the damper and o-rings for that color. (Where the ink line connects just before the printhead)

 

[lodcomm]

I checked both dampers o-rings on the feed line side & the O-rings where damper plugs into the nipple above the print head they are all present and in good condition. I should have said in the original post - I am getting no Magenta -or- Light Magenta ​output at all in the test print. I am able to prime ink all the way into both dampers. Am I correct in assuming that the magenta goes into the left printhead, and "Light Magenta" feeds into the right hand head?

 

[Baz]

Configuration is : 1st head: Black, Cyan, Magenta --- 2nd head: Light Cyan, Light Magenta, Yellow

 

[lodcomm]

Example Print of Red Red Square

Here is a picture of what I get when I attempt to print a 3" X 5" Red square & the output from flexi's test print.

 

[madsign25]

I think it's clogging in heads but try this:

-Get a new dampers for M&Lm you can switch a work dampers from your head to ensure that dampers work or not .
-the ink level inside dampers must be around half pull ink by syringe from dampers .
-probably there are clogging in the head put cleaning liquid on the cap let the head set on it few minute then few cleaning from menu test print see what happen.
-try push cleaning liquid in M&Lm head to fix the clogging if its not open you nee new heads.
If it's to expensive replace 2 heads you can replace one head and print CMYK without Lm Lc.

 

[lodcomm]

Blank Lines in the printed output..

Thanks for the unclogging suggestions... I will pick up some cleaning solution, and new dampers for the Magenta & Light Magenta. Is it ok to push the cleaning solution into the head using a syringe and tube going directly to the nipple that the damper plugs into, or should I flush the damper a push through the damper and into the head?

Also.. are the blank lines showing in all of my printouts (see below) a result of the missing M/Lm ?

thanks again everyone... I'm getting closer.

 

[J Hill Designs]

I think the blank lines are being cause by an unlicensed/trial version of the RIP

 

[madsign25]

Push cleaning solution direct to nipple by syringe it's make pressure on the nozzle to open good .The banding if the test print for other color perfect clean the encoder strip and encoder sensor by alcohol not cleaning solution it's make damage then from menu do bidirection calibration and print adjust here user manual.

 

[sfr table hockey]

Don't do your test print from a Rip, use the test print button on the printer. This will print the 6 colors and you can then see what jets are working. You will see missing bars in the test print and that will show blocked jets. I assume all the dampers are about half full of ink?

Draw ink into the heads by way of attaching a syringe and small length of tubing direct to the captop (where the white line goes to the pump). Make sure the heads are parked when you draw ink. If you hear air and no ink comes into the syringe then there is an air leak some where. Make sure power is off when moving the heads off the captops to attach the tube and reset the heads back onto the capping station.

It could be that the drain line on that side may be plugged and not recharging the head.

 

[madsign25]

I'm never note your test print I look now the other head clogging so you have banding ,note that your test print not print on the same line that mean cap problem fix cap first or replace it and sure that pump tube open perfect no clogging you can by alcohol or hot water clean cap and pump tube , do that before flushing head mybe it's just easy and work .do test print from printer not rip when work with head flushing disconnect the power cable .

 

[lodcomm]

Hello All,

the blank lines were indeed being caused by the RIP, I was still running in demo mode. I will proceed with the damper replacement, and head cleaning
as has been outlined here, and I will report my progress.

Thanks to everyone for the nearly instant assistance.. It'll be great once I get this machine printing and cutting.

Couple More questions...

1) Can anyone point me to a source for a copy of the original Colorchoice software that originally came with the sc-500

2) If I end up having to replace the head(s) - Does anyone have a source for the best price (ie: Least expensive!) for the proper printhead for the sc-500.. I think it calls for a colour epson DX2 ?


Someone suggested above that worst case I could replace only one print head and limp along missing the Lm & Lc - If I am forced to go this route I am assuming I would replace the #1 head which is my Black/Cyan/Magenta - and leave the #2 head in place which currently is firing Light Cyan and yellow. Is there a menu or configuration option to the the sc500 not to use the Lc & Lm - or Do I just run it in its current config and ignore the fact that the Lm is not firing on the #2 head?

thanks again all.

-t

 

[madsign25]

RCC take from flexisign they're the same but flexi mybe not have enough ICC
in both there're command from print setting called (color mode ) you can choose CMYKLmLc or CMYK but again check your cap .

 

[lodcomm]

RCC take from flexisign they're the same but flexi mybe not have enough ICC
in both there're command from print setting called (color mode ) you can choose CMYKLmLc or CMYK but again check your cap .

The capping station was brand new when I received this printer, the sponges were clean white and all the drain lines on it were clear. There is ink ejecting through both ink drain lines from the bottom of the capping station out into the drain bottle. Can you please detail what else you recommend in way of adjusting the capping station,


After sitting in the ink dampened sponges for several hours, and a few powerful cleans I started getting a bit out of the light magenta jets, and even a few (I know *FEW*) bits of lines from the magenta nozzles. (see print test below).

I am having a bit of difficulty keeping the ink lines primed. I remove the damper, draw fully out of the lines with my syringe, in the short few seconds it takes to reconnect the line back to the damper the ink seems to "suck" back up the ink line leaving 3-4 inches of the line right above the damper inkless. It appears that the ink sometimes continues to recede even after the damper is connected and snapped back into place. The little line nuts and o-rings are all present and appear to be in good shape. I have also drawn the ink through the damper with the ink line connected, the dampers are about 1/2 full at the moment and if I were to attempt to keep drawing ink through them with the syringe, they will become completely full.. Is this a problem having the dampers completely full? Any Ideas why the ink keeps losing prime and receding back up the lines?


I am going to get some cleaning solvent and look for new dampers this afternoon.

thanks again all... I am making steady progress bringing this old girl back to life.

Test print:

 

[Baz]

I remember having to change the Inktype settings in Service mode when my printer was switched to Ecosol Max inks. You might want to check that also to make sure it is set for the right ink (it affected the pump i believe)

 

[madsign25]

No problem to full damper ink ,the minimum is the half full.

-you can test the cap by drop liquid above must absorb it direct no time if not the cap have problem.
-if you sure that all cap tube are good then check the pump tube push liauid insde tube must out smooth .
-check any loose in cap station move it right and left it must go up and down too it must be smooth .
- if you pull ink from damper do it while it's connect with the line tube feeding ink not when it disconnected so ink no back in line.



to adjust the cap station here link for service manual.
http://www.mediafire.com/download/tdommyezzyu1otq/ROLAND+SC500.zip#!

 

[madsign25]

Another thing check the wiper must be clean it's have 2 side smooth and harsh I'm not sure think the harsh must be out smooth in when wrong set sometimes make test print look bad because it's not cleaning the head face good and make a drop dot on the material when printing .

 

[sfr table hockey]

Some times with new carts there can be a draw caused by the cart and it will suck ink back into itself or a cart that is almost empty can do a similar thing and even suck ink from another color if the heads are parked on the capping station and the white sponge touches the heads. I like to use refill carts to eliminate this problem. How full are all the carts?

First if you remove the line from the damper and draw ink direct from the line, you will always have ink run backward once you remove the syringe because the air leak you create with the open line. If you can draw ink in that line just up to an inch or so from the end of the line and stop and leave the syringe attached. If you can leave it that way for a min. and the ink does not move back to the carts, then there is no air leak in the line itself which would be good. If the ink still runs backward then the issue is in that line to the carts.

Now when you attach the damper back to the line, make sure the o-ring sits proper inside the brass nut and thread it onto the damper. Then draw ink by way of the bottom of the damper until again the ink gets near the damper but not quite going in and watch the ink level again in the line to see if it moves back to the carts. if not then continue to charge the damper till its about half full. If it does run back then you could try an new o-ring and if you don't have one you can cut a thin piece of the drain line tube and make a temp. o-ring and put that in place of the o-ring on the line. If that does not hold ink in the line then change the damper.

If the ink stays in the line then try to draw ink into the heads by way of the capping station. Attach your syringe to the captop on the left side and make sure the heads are parked and locked on the capping station. Try to draw ink into the syringe. You will feel resistance as the ink draws through the heads. If you hear air sucking then the capping station may need to be adjusted in the service menu in the flushing adjustment. There are also clear lines that run from under the captops to a small rectangle box on the right side of the capping station. If these come off the bottom of the captops then you will have an air leak and not be able to charge the heads. What those lines do is when the capping station is parked the small rectangle box sits against a flat piece that blockes the two holes on that side and creates a vacuume and lets the pump draw ink from the white lines. When the heads move slightly over when cleaning this open the clear lines up to let air in so the drain lines can then clear the captops before the heads wipe over the wiper. If all is working proper you will see a thin line of ink on the wiper. If those clear lines get plugged you will see a thicker line of ink on the wiper because the captops were not able to clear the ink proper before the heads come off the captops. This is too much info but down the line it may come in handy.

So after drawing ink into the syringe by way of the captops you should see a muddy brown or almost black color ink in the syringe. Do a reg cleaning (never do more than a reg cleaning or you just end up dumping ink into the drain bottle). Then do another test print. If it is getting better, do another cleaning and then another test print.

Lets see what happens after you do the above.

 

[lodcomm]

Thanks Everyone for the time and effort to answer all of my questions. I will comply with the suggestions, checking the capping station, and drawing ink from the separate caps with the heads properly parked.

The carts are refill carts using Nazdar inks - They are each approximately 1/3 full.


On the ink settings in the service mode: When I power on this machine, it shows "CJ-500" on the little console. I thought I read that when the machine was upgraded to eco solvent, there was a firmware upgrade that should have been applied to the printer and it would boot up and display the "SC-500" banner on the display? I am understanding this correctly?


thanks again all!

-t

 

[sfr table hockey]

What firmware version are you on? I am running on 4.4

Also I used to run a Nazdar (lyson 2000) inks set but found it to dry up easily in the drain lines and heads. Rolands is much better for that and you can leave the printer off for a much longer period with minor issues. If you were using the the Lyson 2000 ink set I might have some profiles I made for it.

It's ok that it says CJ 500 and leave the ink set as is as it does not show a ecosolmax when its set up as a CJ500 waterbased printer. It will print no different however depending on what you have for profiles that is where it matters. Mine has been a CJ 500 since 2009 and I run Rolands EcoSolmax inks.

There is a switch that can be flipped on the main board but like I said it does not matter as it will print the same as a CJ500. I think that if you did flip that switch you may have issues with your auto crop mark detection. One member here did and once flipped back to the CJ it worked fine again.

You may have issues with profiles showing the right color using those inks. Even with ecosolmax inks I needed to make profiles for the right colors to show. The generic profiles will get you through but colors can be off on some print jobs.