School Me: 1Shot

[mesheau]

Ladies, Gents,

Got a few sign painting projects coming up and I wanted to pick the brains of the mighty old sign painters here on the interwebs. I'm new to traditional sign making as you can see by my few posts, anyway I have some general questions with regards to 1shot and painting.

1) Background Paint:
What type of background paint should I be using so it won't interfere with the lettering enamel. If I'm simply staining wood, what type of stain would be appropriate to 1shot over.

2)Clear Coats:
Should I clear coat over the 1shot for longevity, if so what kind?


That's all I can think of, might post up more questions as I can think of them

Thanks

 

[visual800]

if you are alrady mentioning staining the background I will assume you are doing a dimentional sign. First off let me say ONE SHOT SUCKS, and I would suggest going with latex or ronans aquacote, I dont use this Ronans but others on here like it. I stick with regular benjamin Moore. I know others on here still use One Shot religiously and that is their preference. I do know it can be cleared over but if you are staning the background on sign I would not suggest clearing over that.

all of our clears are done with high solid urethanes (car paint) DO NOT use off the shelf shellacs as they tend to not last outside

 

[mesheau]

No dimensional stuff here. I was simply thinking of staining the wood and then lettering over top of the stain with enamel, 1shot or Ronin.

I've been told 1Shot now stinks quite a bit more then they use to after being bought out by Pittsburg Paints. Alot of people are switching to Ronin. I haven't painted enough to really tell the difference.

 

[OldPaint]

painting background:
I PREFER automotive acrylic enamel, spray painted onto panel if its metal and even wood like MDO. will give you the best long lasting impervious to any mineral sprites or turps based mistakes. with the acrylic enamel background.........you can make a mistake with lettering enamel....wipe it off with turps/mineral sprites and never touch the background paint. on metal i usually get PRE-PAINTED, so i light scuff with 320-400 sandpaper, and spray color coat. on MDO.......I reprime with KILZ.... light sand that and then spray color coat acrylic enamel.
NOW... IF YOU CLEAR COAT the wood.......use a good polyurethane...water or oil based dont matter. these usually will allow 1-shot/ronan paint to bite into it. as for clear coat......if you do.........GIVE IT A WEEK.... between lettering and clear coat.
ONE SHOT DOES SUCK.......HOK( house of color)paints are what most pinstripers are going to instead of 1-shot.

 

[d fleming]

Sadly, one shot isn't what it used to be.

 

[player]

1Shot used to have lots of lead in it. Not now though.

 

[Saw Trax]

If your sandblasting it you can pre-prime the blank with primer - I use to use Kilz - sand it smooth, apply your sandblast mask, weed, and blast. After you blast the background you can stain the background and the raised sections (still under the mask) are already primed. Remove the remaining sandblast mask when you are ready to letter with the 1 shot. Let it dry then seal.

-Larry

 

[Billct2]

Lettering on stained wood that hasn't been sealed can be tough, the paint wants to beeld out through the grain. I would stain and seal first. If it's interior poly is fine, if it's exterior I use a 2 part marine varnish. Just be sure the client knows stained wood isn't going to hold up, though I have had them last for many years.
I still use 1 shot or Chromatic because they're what I have, definately not what it used to be and two coats are often required. When done don't apply a clear but use an automtive wax and tell the client to wash & wax twice a year.