Seeking guidance-replacing wiper motor-Roland Pro II_SC-540

[96XP]

Have just R&R'd 3 pump motors and have a 4th ready to install for the wiper scraper.
However, it is mid way into the chassis, and from observation, not easily accessible.

It appears I may have to remove other components to get to it, just not sure on where to start and how difficult this is to do.

Am technically/mechanically inclined and seeking some advice/guidance on procedure.

Thanks for reading.

 

[Ragnabrok]

take the whole wiper assembly out. 2 motor connections and one sensor, and the whole unit is only held in by a few 3mm allen screws.
Haven't had to do it on a pro 2, but on versacamms one bolt is under the front apron, and one under the back. looks from the attached image the bolts are on the bottom right.

 

[96XP]

Thank you, Ragnabrok.

Attached are a couple more reference images. If I'm comprehending, the references of 'C' and 'D' would be the ones to remove?

There are also two very long screws extruding from the left side, marked 'A' and 'B'.
Are those to be removed as well, or do they have a different purpose?

I'm guessing as my first time, should take appr. 40 minutes?
Lastly, are there any fragile parts or obstructions I may need to address with greater care, or is it all pretty much easy to dig out, per say.

ADDENDUM
Can I use the same motor as that used on the pumps?
And I see it would be easier to service by having the print heads out of the way, and by using a Phillips screwdriver with a longer shaft.
Q.: How long can they (print heads) remain exposed to open air without sacrifice? And if for a prolonged period, can they be temporarily covered up with masking tape, or would it be better to baste them periodically with cleaning fluid?

 

[Ragnabrok]

Things to be careful of are the cables for the pumps and sensor, they don't have a lot of slack to move them to a place that is easy to disconnect.

Can't tell from the diagram, but it looks like all 4 screws are holding it down.

The motors are the same, but the gear may be different. you could always harvest it off the old motor.

The heads are good for a few hours uncapped, so go ahead and move them out of the way. occasionally basting them isn't a bad idea, but sticking anything to the surface would be a bad idea.

 

[96XP]

Excellent advice.

I have a few prints to run this week, so will schedule the task once I diminish the workload.
Many thanks again, and I'll post the results upon completion.

 

[96XP]

Mission accomplished.
It took less than an hour, even though I had some cleaning up to do. Found a couple screws inside as well, mixed into the blob. They are probably the ones I noticed missing when I began service.

In order to help others who may at some point need to address the same servicing, I have attached a few reference images to help demystify what you may encounter.
All in all, it was quite easy to do. And I would suggest not removing those two long screws on the left noted as 'A' and 'B' in the previous images posted. I believe they are for leveling, and that's what I had figured in advance, so used a small level (bubble) for registration before I had removed them so that I could get them set back to where they belong.

1) Get the head into cleaning position (far left).
2) Disconnect main power.
3) You will need to pull the rubber drain tube up and out the top first by removing the small metal clamp held by a single #2 Phillips. Be careful of dripping. Use paper towel and tape to block the end of the tube if necessary.
4) There are 4 connectors/sockets to be disconnected. Two at the front (noted in images below) and two which will be discovered along the right side of the assembly. Start with the two at the front.
5) Remove the two fastener/mounting screws (on the right; 'C' and 'D') from assembly to frame, then, gently move the assembly to the left in order to disconnect the furthest of the 4 connectors/sockets.
6) Having done so, you should easily be able to clear everything and pull the unit out from the printer.
7) Installation is just the reverse of that described above.

*Special thanks goes out to 'Ragnabrok' for the advance notice and recommendations before I got into it
Mods: if this information is worthy, please move or copy into the do it yourself section.

============================

 

[acs.dylan]

I just performed this myself on our SC-540 EX. This thread proved VERY helpful, as the procedure is not described in the Service Manual from Roland. Great job to 96XP for putting together an excellent set of pictures.

I thought I'd chime in real fast to perhaps help someone else even diagnose this problem in their own machines. I was listening to the printer clean itself one day, and thought that it had been making a terrible whining/grinding noise. I put it into service mode to try and watch the wipers as it was cleaning, and saw the issue immediately. The wipers weren't actually reaching the print heads because they were getting stuck on the scraper above. See the video below showing the malfunction of the motor.

I find the sound to be very unique, and obvious when the machine performs an auto clean--one that is different than the more common problem of dried up ink deposits obstructing the path of the wiper holder.

Also, the gears INSIDE of the motor itself were the problem, not the visible brass gear on top of the motor. In this specific case, there was no need to replace the gear, pulley, pulley tensioner, or belt like my sales rep tried to convince me of buying.
---------------------------------------------------------
The only difference I did in my motor replacement was I took the chance to try and replace as many 'consumables' as possible while I was in the Wiper Assembly. I replaced the foam serge mist filter (top and inner) as well as the main wiper tray pad (I forgot about the little one toward the front of the printer that the wipers hit before returning to the rear position...) Additionally, I cleaned the SNOT out of everything I could. The inner serge mist filter (sits inside of the left ink drain tube, underneath the top serge mist filter) was almost eaten to nothing by the years of ink and it took some TLC to remove all the bits and pieces of it from inside the hose. Ink had saturated through the wiper tray pad and fused some of the foam to the tray below it, which I also cleaned as best as I could before installing the new pad. I nearly took apart the entire upper portion of the wiper assembly, including the dark metal wiper rails, wiper cover, and replaced the wipers themselves.

While waiting for new parts to come in the mail, I was nervous about the fact that my printer was unable to clean itself properly, so I tried to come up with a cheap and quick solution to hold it over for a while. I took the scraper out of the assembly completely, and actually used an X-Acto knife to trim it down about 1/8" to hopefully reduce the friction between the wipers and the scraper. This helped a bit, but the motor was soon unable to even use enough force to push the wipers across the heads themselves. So all I could was pray really. I did replace the scraper with a new, uncut one at the same time during this procedure by the way, so I wasn't using the old cut up scraper anymore.

So far, everything seems to be a success. The two motors on the wiper assembly are working great, as well as the two sensors. The heads are getting cleaned with fresh new wipers again, and my test prints look great. There's a bit of an odd sound when the wipers actually move, maybe as if the wiper holder and shaft are having a bit of resistance together. I considered the idea of putting a small amount of lubrication on the shaft, but didn't see any from the factory so I decided against it. Does anybody have any input about this? Perhaps it will remedy itself after everything settles. One can hope...

 

[Fbermudez]

Mission accomplished.
It took less than an hour, even though I had some cleaning up to do. Found a couple screws inside as well, mixed into the blob. They are probably the ones I noticed missing when I began service.

In order to help others who may at some point need to address the same servicing, I have attached a few reference images to help demystify what you may encounter.
All in all, it was quite easy to do. And I would suggest not removing those two long screws on the left noted as 'A' and 'B' in the previous images posted. I believe they are for leveling, and that's what I had figured in advance, so used a small level (bubble) for registration before I had removed them so that I could get them set back to where they belong.

1) Get the head into cleaning position (far left).
2) Disconnect main power.
3) You will need to pull the rubber drain tube up and out the top first by removing the small metal clamp held by a single #2 Phillips. Be careful of dripping. Use paper towel and tape to block the end of the tube if necessary.
4) There are 4 connectors/sockets to be disconnected. Two at the front (noted in images below) and two which will be discovered along the right side of the assembly. Start with the two at the front.
5) Remove the two fastener/mounting screws (on the right; 'C' and 'D') from assembly to frame, then, gently move the assembly to the left in order to disconnect the furthest of the 4 connectors/sockets.
6) Having done so, you should easily be able to clear everything and pull the unit out from the printer.
7) Installation is just the reverse of that described above.

*Special thanks goes out to 'Ragnabrok' for the advance notice and recommendations before I got into it
Mods: if this information is worthy, please move or copy into the do it yourself section.

============================

 

[Fbermudez]

Hello I do need to replace the motor on my machine, can you guys provide me with the part number for the motor.
the couple of places I called say that they don't have a listing for that part.