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Signcades

cartoad

New Member
We discontinued using PVC due to the temperature extremes we get, warps in the summer, and brittle in the winter. Our solution was to use .040 aluminum to apply prints or cut vinyl, apply with 6 screws to the Signcade. Looks good + lasts = happy customer.
 

Desert_Signs

New Member
We discontinued using PVC due to the temperature extremes we get, warps in the summer, and brittle in the winter. Our solution was to use .040 aluminum to apply prints or cut vinyl, apply with 6 screws to the Signcade. Looks good + lasts = happy customer.


We've always used coro. Either direct print or vinyl overlay then stuck on with "velcro". We've recently switched to the Signacade Deluxe. Lets us just slide the panels in and out. Saves on "velcro" and labor for a couple dollars difference in cost. In the end, it's close to a wash. You can also get them in black!
 

Malkin

New Member
The signicade delux is great, but it takes an odd size panel, like 25" wide or something dumb like that...
 

Mosh

New Member
I use the simpo frames, there is a slot for a panel to slide in and it makes it easy for the customer to switch out panels.
 

Tom Dalton

New Member
The signicade should be flame treated. There are instructions for flame treating the signicade at... http://www.signsdirect.com/PDF/Signicade-Plasticade-flame-treat.pdf

The manufacturer also does NOT recommend individual cut letters regardless of how you prep it. They recommend a full sheet of vinyl covering the sign area. See instruction #7 in this linked PDF. That information is right from the signicade manufacturer.

One great ALTERNATIVE is to just use the new signicade deluxe. It is almost identical to the signicade EXCEPT it has a "lift and drop" system for holding your 4mmm corrugated plastic panel. No screws needed, No velcro or 2-sided tape needed ....and you can change the sign in seconds.

-Tom
 
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