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Software to Convert a 2D image to 3D file (DFX)

Tycoon

New Member
What program is best for taking an 2D image/photograph and turning it into a 3D file (DFX) for CNC router?

I've tried BobArt. The system goes based on colors. I haven't been really happy with the result.

Hopefully someone else out there has had some luck with some other software. I don't mind spending the money on new software, but I would rather not go through thousands of dollars worth of time training and software to find a viable solution.

Thanks,
Eric
 

iSign

New Member
you can spend $10K, and you still won't find anything that makes what it sounds like you want, as easy as it sounds like you hope for.
 

Fitch

New Member
I think you need to post a 2D and 3D sample (obviously / most likely not the same image) you might get a more accurate response.

Cheers - G
 

iSign

New Member
I think you need to post a 2D and 3D sample (obviously / most likely not the same image) you might get a more accurate response.

Cheers - G

kinda what I thought of suggesting too... 3D is not quite the complete explanation it could be... I an a lithophane type image, but wanted a more accurate relief carving of a face, and Enroute can do an awesome job of that once you create a file, but Enroute wants highest sections to be white & lowest to be black... depending on the lighting, a photo of a face could be all kinds of shades of gray, but I don't see how any software can see a photo & convert it based on somehow recognizing relative depths & heights... just by converting a photo...

so, maybe you mean something different, hence the posting samples suggestion...
 

Tycoon

New Member
Techman, thanks. I will check your suggestion out.

iSign, my apologies that I made it sound like I was looking for an easy solution that automatically pops out the result I want. This is not the case, I am looking for control - a program that allows me the result I want even if it takes skill and a number of hours.

I assume it will be necessary to touch up the image in Photoshop first. After that, I may need a program like illustrator to convert it into a vector. From either the image or the vector I will looking for something that adds depth. BobArt does this by color (sort of a crap shoot), and then also allows you to fiddle with it afterwards to a minor extent. I am hoping there is a software package with control over the whole process, which of course will take skill and time.

Later today, I will post a sample image and style of result I am looking to achieve based up it.

Thanks,
Eric
 

Fred Weiss

Merchant Member
I requested some input at the forum that publishes Genetica software. The replies in this thread may be of some interest. They have a free demo download which you can download HERE.
 

marcinito

New Member
ArtCam pro can convert your picture into 3d relief.
Don't expect to take picture of your face and have ArtCam come up with full size 3d Relief. Look up Delcam and try to go to ArtCam pro forum to get better idea. I use ArtCam for all our 3d mold used in thermoforming. I've done my own face by using image to 3d conversion.
 

Tycoon

New Member
Fred, Thanks for the post and the link to the forum!

Techman, I know where to find corel draw... is dfxtools part of the package or is there a seperate link?

iSign, I am looking for a lithophane, not a true 3D output. Thanks for the insight on the proper term.

Woodsway, Vectric Aspire has the type of result I am looking for. Could I hire one of you guys to work with an image so I can to try and mill a sample before I go out and buy the package? I seems like either Vectric or Enroute is what I am looking for... and I hope Vectric is it.

marcinito... thanks, I will check out your recommendation too.
 

Techman

New Member
building a relief map is not so easy,, but it can be done..
DFXtools is a plug in for corel.

It exports files as a proper dfx.
 

Fitch

New Member
This is one of the programs I run - Rhino - works on Mesh Heightfield.

Here are two quick renditions I have done without any curving to a surface, pulling etc.

Might be worthwhile looking into.

Cheers - G
 

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Fitch

New Member
The other thing you have to be cautious about is this:

When people talk about 3D - they COULD be talking about 3D animation or 3D realism - on a screen - for example in a gaming environment where rotations cast and move shadows etc. Take a lightening strike for example - looks 3D but will be hard to get that to output on a CNC. The other thing you have to do is THINK 3D. That is - your mind has to be in a never ending world that is a space of 360 degrees. To design and cut in true 3D you would need a 5 axis router or for generics such as apples, humans, boats etc.... realise that they are a mirror image of the other half - as opposed to a man made object such as a corded desktop phone where the hand piece is on one side, the dialling buttons on the other. Only nature mirrors and repeats itself (flowers, snowflakes) in symmetry. Only man f#@*s it up.


Now THAT is real 3D.


Cheers - G
 

Tycoon

New Member
Here is my sample image I am attempting to turn into a lithopane.

Offsite pics replaced. Please observe our rules on photo posting.
 

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PGSigns

New Member
I use the vetric softwre and it works real well for lithopanes. They have sample files you can down load and cut. You can also down load the trial and try out the software with the photo you want done. It will allow you to do everything but export the cut files. If you like what you see then you can buy it.
Jimmy
 

Steph_Stamm

New Member
Hey guys - I noticed you mentioned EnRoute a few times, so I wanted to give a bit more information. It sounds like EnRoute's new Rapid Texture feature is exactly what you're looking for. I've attached a picture sample of how the Rapid Texture feature works. You can also check out some video demos here:

http://www.enroutetv.com/
 

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jonnie

New Member
Hi

A reply to an old posting but someone may benefit.

You cannot recreate a realistic 3d model from a single photograph without supplying the software with
additional information. Intenstity ( black grey white ) or colour does not give depth information as other
factors are involved, intensity for instance may depend on depth but it will also depend on colour ( black reflects
less light ) and shadows ( obscuration ).

Information has been lost when 3d is converted to 2d in the camera and attempts to get back to 3d either require
additional information or they must guess and thereby produce mixed and inconsistent results.

Very advanced software can use cues, for instance buildings may be understood by vanishing points and
lines of persepective by intelligent algorithms but for this you need automatic and therefore intelligent
feature recognition or the user must help.

It is possible that focus and depth of field might be intepretted but in general, unless the software understands something
about the scence ( here we are talking pretty smart software ) and unless some other cue is available (steroscopic vision)
then intensity or colour cannot be used to recapture the lost 3 dimensional information.

The reliefs people are talking about here may approximate a 3 dimensional scene when viewed from one angle
but typically parts that are concave should have been convex and vice-versa, each region may just about hang
together with some level of visual consistency but taken as a whole the scene will usually contain contradictions.

I am sure everyone has seen the optical illusion where a convex carving of Einsteins face suddenly seems to pop out
concave as the carving is slowly rotating - well refiefs are often like that but using mixed regions of concave and
convex at the same time - it might look right from one angle but its not a great 3d representation.

Some 3d software works with faces because the software can work out ( often with help ) the position of the nose,
mouth and cheek bones, it also understands facial structure and so a combination of smart analysis and stored
knowledge can flesh out a 3d face from a 2d one but this involves more information than that contained in the photo.

In general a dark area may be dark because of its relative angle to the light source and viewer, it may be dark because
the material does not reflect light or it may be dark because it is hidden in shadow - none of these cues directly tells you anything
about how close to the camera lens the dark region. Reliefs of faces are often misleading, black hair may be pushed back when infact it
is buffoned out front, gleaming white teeth may extrude towards the camera and well infront of the darker lips when infact the teeth are
actually behind the lips.

The simple cheap software will generally work better with simple shapes - the ideal photo would be one of
a scene where intensity was proportional to distance - brighest points should be nearest the camera.

Relief software can be useful to capture simple graphic art work, for instance a cartoon character, the low
number of colours and constant intensities ( areas tend to be one colour and one intensity) mean that each region
will be correctly indentified, it may come out the wrong Z height but this can be post corrected ( subject to software )
relatively easily.

The replies listed here that suggest use software X are referring to non-sophisticated methods which will in general
not recapture the 3d information.
 

artbot

New Member
we used v-carve and some other b/w imaging program to edit from grayscale to 3d for the cnc. it took some practice to interpret what was up and down with the extreme whites and blacks. in the end the whole mess was boring and the panels took ages to mill. we ended up passing on a $75k order when we realized the cnc would have to mill for three days straight.

as for line art, this is my favorite way to get good closed lines out of a bitmap (the bit map was completely untouched when i started. photoshop does a good job of picking up detail.

image
threshold
color range
paths (make work path)
export work path to illustrator
import to corel (make black)
export to dxf
 

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