I've seen this incompatibility before. I needed it done fast so.... I sprayed it from a distance with Rustoleum ultra cover clear. Or, if you can get it, I am a big fan of SEM 13003 vinyl clear coat. If you can get a light coat on without it dissolving and moving the ink, then you can add a few more coats until it is sealed. It can work. But of course the compatible paper is better.
isn't it easier to just buy a roll of paper, compatible with the chemistry of your printer?
i have done the same thing, not with paper, but with paints, after painting mdf for "sponsor panels" under "welcome to <your town> signs.
they play with the chemistry of paints so much, i often find vinyl lifting after 2-3 weeks.
spraying a clear coat on the paint seems to be a good "cheat" (if we end up doing a LOT OF THESE i will invest the time to learn as much about paint
chemistry as i know about my inks)