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Threaded a VERY small screwhead

spb

spb

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Jim Hancock said:
What is likely causing the screw to be stuck is probably dried ink. First, remove the dampers from the print head to give yourself some working room. I would suggest using an eyedropper and placing a single drop of acetone on the screw top and pressing a swab soaked with acetone on the bottom of the screw from under the head carriage. This will act like penetrating fluid and help dissolve the dried ink, which would be acting like Loctite. Then immediately before the acetone dries, using either a PH0 Phillips screwdriver or the Vampliers suggested by GAC05, try to loosen the screw. I have a pair of the Vampliers and they are probably the best thing to use here, as you can get maximum gripping on the screwhead with them.
Click to expand...
Try the above with acetone (or solvent ink wash), and if you still can't get it out - find an Allen key that fits the head (but spins freely). Put a drop of epoxy on the tip of the allen wrench and find a way to clamp it into place so the tip contacts the screw head. Let it set for 24 hours. Put some vise grips on the Allen key and gently twist until the screw starts to turn.

If you can get a flexible bit and a Dremel, you could try making it into a flathead screw with a cutoff wheel, then stick a screwdriver in and twist.

Those Vampliers look amazing
 
Signarama Jockey

Signarama Jockey

New Member
netsol said:
Red loctite needs to be heated to be removed.
Only a fool would use red loctite in a printhead
Click to expand...
Yeah, that sounds right. Red would be overkill.

There are, of course, different colors of Loctite with different strengths. It is conceivable that manufacturers could use a threadlocker with a lower strength on parts that they really don't want coming loose. I'm not saying that they did, just that it would be something to consider.

8bd08a1c-addb-45c5-9024-e6267af7833f.__CR0,0,970,300_PT0_SX970_V1___.jpg
 
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weyandsign

New Member
cornholio said:
According to Roland, it's a Phillips screw. They sell a long Phillips bit to go with their torque driver.
Since the carriage base is made of aluminum, it's also possible to strip the thread.
II had to drill out such a screw once on a FJ-540. It was tightened by someone else before...
While I normally don't use the torque driver, it makes sense to "calibrate your fingers" from time to time...
Small screws are overtightened by most people, while bigger screws are not tightened enough.
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I'm going to disagree. I respect your expertise and know you're one of the most knowledgeable people on here when it comes to printers. But you're telling me every single screw in my Roland printer has these dots stamped in them, and they are considered "regular" phillips? I'm seeing multiple people saying they have a problem stripping these screws out. All I'm saying is maybe if a JIS driver was being used they would come out without so many people stripping them. There's multiple sources online showing a dot stamped on the screw is a JIS screw and not phillips, and using a phillips driver tends to strip them out. The OP's pic is too blurry to be able to see if there's a dot stamped on them. I've also had a certified Roland tech tell me they are not regular phillips screws.

chapmanmfg.com

Phillips Bits Vs. JIS Bits: What's the difference?

Does your Phillips driver feel like it doesn't quite fit that screw? Chances are that's because it's not a Phillips screw, it's a JIS screw. JIS, or Japanese Industry Standard screws are just different enough in shape that Phillips drivers will not fit well and slip/strip them. The difference is...
chapmanmfg.com chapmanmfg.com
 

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weyandsign said:
I'm going to disagree. I respect your expertise and know you're one of the most knowledgeable people on here when it comes to printers. But you're telling me every single screw in my Roland printer has these dots stamped in them, and they are considered "regular" phillips? I'm seeing multiple people saying they have a problem stripping these screws out. All I'm saying is maybe if a JIS driver was being used they would come out without so many people stripping them. There's multiple sources online showing a dot stamped on the screw is a JIS screw and not phillips, and using a phillips driver tends to strip them out. The OP's pic is too blurry to be able to see if there's a dot stamped on them. I've also had a certified Roland tech tell me they are not regular phillips screws.

chapmanmfg.com

Phillips Bits Vs. JIS Bits: What's the difference?

Does your Phillips driver feel like it doesn't quite fit that screw? Chances are that's because it's not a Phillips screw, it's a JIS screw. JIS, or Japanese Industry Standard screws are just different enough in shape that Phillips drivers will not fit well and slip/strip them. The difference is...
chapmanmfg.com chapmanmfg.com
Click to expand...
OP's photo looks like a stripped hex cap screw to me. both the screws holding my printhead to the carriage on my Roland VS-300i were hex cap screws. I didn't know about JIS (Japanese Industry Standard) screws until today
 
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Novadon

Novadon

LEF2-200
What model is in discussion here? :rolleyes:

If this is any help, my Roland LEF2-200 Print Head replacement states this (in part):

Necessary tools
General tools No.2 Phillips screwdriver
Special tools ST-056 TORQUE DRIVER N6 1000005463
TOOL, BIT PHILLIPS NO.1 L150MM ST-107
 
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cornholio

New Member
Wow, I think I saw a dot on some of the bigger screws. (M3, M4)
I have a bag of the small screws in my car. Have to check with a magnifier...
 
JBurton

JBurton

Signtologist
JBurton said:
I just ordered some JIS drivers, gonna give them a go as a daily driver instead of phillips and see if my life changes.
Click to expand...
So I've been using a JIS driver in place of a phillips since January, and it's been just fine, nothing to write home about. That is up until I had to change the elements on my mom's ancient stovetop. There was a tiny philips that was caked in grease and rusting. I was dumbfounded that it absolutely did not slip, deform the head, nothing. Screw had a pan head that was under 3/16" across, actual cross was under 1/8" wide.
Overall performance inline with a philips, aside from being a beast on a tiny screw. 7/5, would recommend.
 
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Sam On Maui

New Member
JBurton said:
So I've been using a JIS driver in place of a phillips since January, and it's been just fine, nothing to write home about. That is up until I had to change the elements on my mom's ancient stovetop. There was a tiny philips that was caked in grease and rusting. I was dumbfounded that it absolutely did not slip, deform the head, nothing. Screw had a pan head that was under 3/16" across, actual cross was under 1/8" wide.
Overall performance inline with a philips, aside from being a beast on a tiny screw. 7/5, would recommend.
Click to expand...
Where did you get yours from? Got a link by chance?
 
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