translucent vinyl, double strike?

[mwidmark]

that's a good point, something I'll need to look into... thanks!

maybe different backing thicknesses...you may need to setup a different profile with output size compensation adjusted for one of the two media

 

[401Graphics]

I print on clear with 2 passes of ink. then laminate, then apply to white translucent polycarb.

 

[Malkin]

Is this a practice you follow? If so, do you have problems with your white translucent lining up with your clear? I did a few tests a year ago and our problem was that the vinyls appeared to feed at different rates and the translucent would be an inch (give or take) longer than the clear but they were both 2mil thick materials...

thanks for your help and advice!

It isn't actually. I forward apply (1st surface) the print with translucent white, and second surface apply the clear. The 3/16" thickness of the polycarb helps minimize registration problem.

I mostly made that recommendation on the assumption that you prefer or needed to second surface mount all the graphics.

 

[Pixels Are Bad Mmmkay?]

We don't do double strike prints on translucent here either. We prefer a face print and then apply a second reverse print on the inside.

I made the mistake of trying double strike prints once and will never do it again. We had a job that required an orange similar to the Chicago Bears orange and the double strike prints turned out bright scorching red. I prefer to have my colors consistent from one job to the next.

 

[mwidmark]

yes! that is a problem that we have... our oranges look red once they are applied, greens with look black, as will blues..

I did a test backlit the other day where i printed 2 layers, one clear 2nd surface, and one translucent 2nd service and it look so much better! the colors stay consistance on and off...

We don't want to do the 1st surface 2nd surface because we do not laminate and a lot of our backlits are either outside or scores tables for basketball games and risk physical contact to either people or the elements...

but thank you for the advice! they look awesome!

We don't do double strike prints on translucent here either. We prefer a face print and then apply a second reverse print on the inside.

I made the mistake of trying double strike prints once and will never do it again. We had a job that required an orange similar to the Chicago Bears orange and the double strike prints turned out bright scorching red. I prefer to have my colors consistent from one job to the next.

 

[J Hill Designs]

We don't want to do the 1st surface 2nd surface because we do not laminate and a lot of our backlits are either outside or scores tables for basketball games and risk physical contact to either people or the elements...

this makes no sense. you can still laminate the first surface print to protect against wear/tear...

 

[SightLine]

I think he is saying he prefers to use clear acrylic instead of white and apply both the prints to the inside (second) surface to additional durability which would also work fine. To do that I'd print on a non adhesive backlit material and reverse print on clear. Laminate the reverse clear print to the back of the non-adhesive translucent print. Then laminating an optically clear mounting adhesive to the front of the translucent print and mount that to the clear acrylic. Does seem like a nice solution since many of the acrylic sheets you can get have their own UV resistance built into the sheet which is generally useless if you are first surface mounting an opaque print. By doing it this way the entire print is second surface.