Without responding to all the misinformation that's being spread in this thread, here's the short answer:
There are two possible causes for gradient banding in your print.
One is that an 8-bit gradient has 256 levels of gradation, which is a small enough number that you can often see the steps of gradation. The best way to fix this is not by using 16-bit colours, because you probably don't know exactly how your RIP or your printer handles 16-bit — it probably gets reduced to 8-bit at some point before it becomes ink, and if that happens, you're back to 256 levels of banding. Some RIPs also may not support 16-bit files, and 16-bit files are an enormous waste of space for this situation. The right way to solve this is by enabling gradient dithering, which will eliminate any visible sign of 256-level banding. Maybe your RIP has a setting for this, but you can also enable dithering on a gradient in Photoshop.
Two is if your printer is not colour-managed (i.e. you don't have a spectrophotometer and custom linearized media profiles). If you're using stock profiles, gradient banding is often caused by the linearization curve that translates the digital file into actual ink output levels. This can cause banding even on dithered gradients, and the solution is to either invest in colour management, or trial and error with switching/adjusting your media profiles until you find something that works better.