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Using metal shear to cut dibond and maxmetal

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Stan B

Guest
Hi guys,

Just wondering if anyone knows if 3mm dibond and such (like grimco max metal) can be cut with 12-14 gauge sheet metal shear?

Also if shear cut .040 aluminum will have smooth non-sharp edges (unlike saw cut aluminum) and can be handled by customer without special cut edge finishing?

Thank you.
 

Fred Weiss

Merchant Member
The 040 aluminum is what the shear will work best with. Thicker materials, especially aluminum clad ones, are problematic because of the slight angular cut made by most metal shears. One edge of the aluminum is as sharp as a carving blade and needs to be dulled or deburred before putting it in the hands of the customer.
 
S

Stan B

Guest
Shorty, we tried cutting \ scoring with our bench cutter, and had great difficulties to cut through. It would simply jam in the blade badly. We even tried few light strokes to slowly get the blade in with same little success.

I wonder if anyone had better luck with metal shear. Could it be that a different brand \ gauge shear may help with a non-sharp straight edge cut? I'd think a 10-12 gauge shear should have lesser cut angle then let's say 14-16 gauge ones?

I would really appreciate any feedback from fabricators.
 

CanuckSigns

Active Member
we usually cut with a table saw, but we have cut dibond with our metal shear, i'm not sure the guage of shear we have, but it is foot operated and you need to put quite a bit of force downto cut it.
 
S

Stan B

Guest
we usually cut with a table saw, but we have cut dibond with our metal shear, i'm not sure the guage of shear we have, but it is foot operated and you need to put quite a bit of force downto cut it.


How is the dibond edge then cut on the shear? Is it way too sharp to be considered "safe" or was it a plain straight "non-sharp" cut edge? Did you cut 3mm?

THANK YOU!
 

Gene@mpls

New Member
I actually talked to Safety Speed Cut about the sharp edge problem
and they brought me a blade that gives a great cut-

860TCGS Premium plastics, thin aluminum $179

Not cheap but works a trick and cheaper than a sheer.
 

skyhigh

New Member
I use a hydrolic 4' shear and don't get the sharp edge that Fred mentioned. I can cut .125 aluminum with ease, so the dibond is like butter. Both sides come out pretty smooth (or as smooth as can be expected....I'd say SAFE)

I have also cut with a utility knife (very easy and quick task). The key to cutting the dibond is.... once you feel the blade binding up a bit, that means you are probably into the plastic core and you would want to quit cutting and simply snap it off.....or you can give it a little bend to open up the cut and give it a couple more swipes.

Note: when cutting with the utility knife, one side will be smooth, and the other will have a curled up edge that needs a quick file.
 

CanuckSigns

Active Member
How is the dibond edge then cut on the shear? Is it way too sharp to be considered "safe" or was it a plain straight "non-sharp" cut edge? Did you cut 3mm?

THANK YOU!

the edge that is supported by the shear is fine, the edge on the piece that falls away has a slight burr on the underside, but 1 pass with a de-burring tool and it's gone.
 
S

Stan B

Guest
Great info, thank you so much guys!

We may be buying a shear just to cut dibond (and alike). Would you guys recommend Air powered or Hydraulic? And should we go with like 12 gauge or smaller if juts as good (14-16 gauges)

Thank you!!!
 

SignManiac

New Member
All of mine gets cut on the router table most of the time. Obviously, the right bit and feed rate make a difference to the quality of the cut.
 
S

Stan B

Guest
All of mine gets cut on the router table most of the time. Obviously, the right bit and feed rate make a difference to the quality of the cut.


Yeah I thought of that... We run an open floor plan shop with some very expensive digital print equipment and our policy is no dust making equipment \ procedures in the shop... Kind of limits our options
 

petrosgraphics

New Member
we have a shear that is at least 25 years old... never have a problem cutting dibond,

or the like.... never a sharp edge.... what it does not like to do, shave a little of the

edge... it leaves the under side edge, which has to be cleaned up....
 

Malkin

New Member
I use an 80 tooth metal cutting blade in the SSC panel saw, or I bring it to another shop that has an ancient 8ft stomp sheer...no idea of the guage, it can handle up to 3mm polymetal.
Edges come out almost perfect either way.
 

artbot

New Member
i have an air powered shear. what you don't foresee when you buy one is how loud they are. i lay a towel on the foot pedal where the exhaust comes out just absorb the blast. i don't use it often. i'd hate to have to hear that all day long.
 
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Stan B

Guest
i have an air powered shear. what you don't foresee when you buy one is how loud they are. i lay a towel on the foot pedal where the exhaust comes out just absorb the blast. i don't use it often. i'd hate to have to hear that all day long.


that's a great pointer, thank you. Hydraulic it is
 

njshorts

New Member
Shorty, we tried cutting \ scoring with our bench cutter, and had great difficulties to cut through. It would simply jam in the blade badly. We even tried few light strokes to slowly get the blade in with same little success.

I wonder if anyone had better luck with metal shear. Could it be that a different brand \ gauge shear may help with a non-sharp straight edge cut? I'd think a 10-12 gauge shear should have lesser cut angle then let's say 14-16 gauge ones?

I would really appreciate any feedback from fabricators.

what thickness? maybe that's where I'm going wrong... we're using the thinner of the two, and a speedpress boxcutter with a standard blade. 1-2 quick scores with the blade and it snaps clean off.
 
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