Versacamm Sp300V clogged heads... then nothing... help...

[LBaisch]

Okay, so I've been using my sp300v for a few months now, (it's new to me, but used) i was gone for 10 days and when i came back I had NO magenta but some yellow black and cyan were fine. I tried unclogging the magenta and yellow print head... no joy, in the process of trying to unclog it yellow stopped printing, so I am guessing that there was still some yellow in the head and that eventually ran out??? (I also changed the caps) I have a new head on the way... I have already replace the blue black head when I got this machine so should be no problem... now to my more pressing question...

In a last ditch effort to get something out of the yellow magenta head I flushed it (which eventually popped the membrane... fluid coming out the sides of the head) ok, no problem i have a new head on the way...

however, now I don't get anything on a test print... could this be because I popped the yellow magenta membrane... why would that cause problems with the blue black??? Sorry for being long winded... I just need to make sure I can get this machine back up and running asap, and if I need to order more parts I would like to do that sooner rather than later....

 

[Solventinkjet]

You probably popped the head fuse. You want to make sure you work with the machine unplugged and discharged which usually takes about 10 to 15 minutes. Also just be very careful not to get ink on the cables and make sure they are plugged in nice and straight before turning the machine back on.

To fix the fuse you will need a 1.6 amp fuse to replace it. If you are lucky and have a newer version main board, it is a socketed fuse and easy to replace. If you have an older version board, it is solder mount. There is a link to the fuse on our site below if you want to purchase it. It works for both socketed and solder types.

1.6 amp quick blow fuse

 

[Jim Hill]

You probably popped the head fuse. You want to make sure you work with the machine unplugged and discharged which usually takes about 10 to 15 minutes. Also just be very careful not to get ink on the cables and make sure they are plugged in nice and straight before turning the machine back on.

To fix the fuse you will need a 1.6 amp fuse to replace it. If you are lucky and have a newer version main board, it is a socketed fuse and easy to replace. If you have an older version board, it is solder mount. There is a link to the fuse on our site below if you want to purchase it. It works for both socketed and solder types.

1.6 amp quick blow fuse

When the fuse for the head blew on my SP-300V I went to the auto parts store and purchased an inline fuse holder and soldered and put some solder on each end of the wire and then held each end one at a time to each end of the fuse. Once you have the solder on the wire itself then simply touch with a soldering iron to the fuse on each end.

This way if it ever blows again you just remove the fuse and add another one and your back in business again. Just remember to use the correct size fuse like the one VanderJ mentioned that was 1.6 amp

Jim

 

[LBaisch]

You probably popped the head fuse. You want to make sure you work with the machine unplugged and discharged which usually takes about 10 to 15 minutes. Also just be very careful not to get ink on the cables and make sure they are plugged in nice and straight before turning the machine back on.

To fix the fuse you will need a 1.6 amp fuse to replace it. If you are lucky and have a newer version main board, it is a socketed fuse and easy to replace. If you have an older version board, it is solder mount. There is a link to the fuse on our site below if you want to purchase it. It works for both socketed and solder types.

1.6 amp quick blow fuse

You probably popped the head fuse. You want to make sure you work with the machine unplugged and discharged which usually takes about 10 to 15 minutes. Also just be very careful not to get ink on the cables and make sure they are plugged in nice and straight before turning the machine back on.

To fix the fuse you will need a 1.6 amp fuse to replace it. If you are lucky and have a newer version main board, it is a socketed fuse and easy to replace. If you have an older version board, it is solder mount. There is a link to the fuse on our site below if you want to purchase it. It works for both socketed and solder types.

1.6 amp quick blow fuse

WOW... those are the smallest fuses I have ever seen... (provided they are the two directly under the ribbon cables on the main board)... bad news, mine appear to be soldered in, can i buy the socket and have that soldered in? or do i need to have the fuses directly soldered? PS... I did place a multimeter on them and they both came up bingo... so I'm guessing I caused this problem in my haste to get the machine back up and running. SIGH... now I wait longer...

 

[LBaisch]

When the fuse for the head blew on my SP-300V I went to the auto parts store and purchased an inline fuse holder and soldered and put some solder on each end of the wire and then held each end one at a time to each end of the fuse. Once you have the solder on the wire itself then simply touch with a soldering iron to the fuse on each end.

This way if it ever blows again you just remove the fuse and add another one and your back in business again. Just remember to use the correct size fuse like the one VanderJ mentioned that was 1.6 amp

Jim

I like this plan... so just to clarify you took an inline 1.6 fuse holder and soldered it to the end of the fuse that was still soldered to the Main Board, thus creating an alternate circuit (and giving yourself a much larger surface to solder to!!!)

 

[Solventinkjet]

WOW... those are the smallest fuses I have ever seen... (provided they are the two directly under the ribbon cables on the main board)... bad news, mine appear to be soldered in, can i buy the socket and have that soldered in? or do i need to have the fuses directly soldered? PS... I did place a multimeter on them and they both came up bingo... so I'm guessing I caused this problem in my haste to get the machine back up and running. SIGH... now I wait longer...

Yeah they are tiny. If you purchase the fuse from me I will throw in a holder you can solder on. Just mention it in the notes when you checkout.

 

[Jim Hill]

I like this plan... so just to clarify you took an inline 1.6 fuse holder and soldered it to the end of the fuse that was still soldered to the Main Board, thus creating an alternate circuit (and giving yourself a much larger surface to solder to!!!)

Correct! Now there are a few tricks to do this and I will explain.

Always turn your printer off and unplug the power and then turn the on and off switch on and off a few times.

First make sure you purchase the correct size fuse and also buy a few of them so if it ever happens again you have more.
Once you have the inline fuse from an auto parts store take out the fuse it comes with because that is not what you need.

Take each end of the wire and twist the wired together and then apply some solder directly to each end of the fuse connector.
Next carefully unplug the two ribbon cables that are in front the the fuses you want to work on.

Now take one end of the inline fuse and put right on top of the fuse and touch it for a split second with your soldering iron. The reason I applied the solder first to the wires was because it is very hard to try and hold on end of the wire and the soldering iron along with the solder at the same time.

Now hold the other end of the inline fuse to the bottom of the fuse and again touch it for a split second with the soldering iron.

Check the wires to make sure soldered in good and then install you New fuse and carefully reconnect your ribbon cables and check the a few times to make sure they are installed the correct way.

Plug your printer back in and turn on the sub-power on the rear of the printer and then turn on the power on the front of the printer in that order.
Once you have determined that everything is working correctly turn off all the power and unplug and put the metal cover back over the mother board and all the components and restart the printer.

I would not advise anyone to install the metal cover back on without first turning off the power!

I like doing this way so that if the fuse ever blows again it is a simple fix with a New fuse.

Jim Hill

 

[LBaisch]

Thank you all so much for your help!!! i installed the fuse holders (VanderJ ... you rock) popped in the tiny tiny fused and I now have power and the fuses are testing out perfect!!!
This forum is amazing
And Jim, thank you for the detailed information, I did just that and now if I ever blow a fuse again it wont

 

[LBaisch]

well, the new head is installed the fuses are replaced, and I still don't have any ink on vinyl.... I'm struggling here, please help... I just get nothing when I do a test print. I have "pumped up" the ink several times, no luck. I used a syringe to draw ink through the dampers (new) and had good suction. I'm not sure if I just don't have ink in the heads or if there is something else wrong.

 

[LBaisch]

well, the new head is installed the fuses are replaced, and I still don't have any ink on vinyl.... I'm struggling here, please help... I just get nothing when I do a test print. I have "pumped up" the ink several times, no luck. I used a syringe to draw ink through the dampers (new) and had good suction. I'm not sure if I just don't have ink in the heads or if there is something else wrong.

Nevermind... I jumped the gun... just more air in the system than I thought possible!

 

[equippaint]

It takes awhile to get a new head printing right. The fun part now is the alignment.

 

[LBaisch]

Ok so I'm back... new printhead works perfectly, now after replacing the fuses I cant seem to pull cyan.

I thought I had all the air out, but I'm only pulling black at the pump. I used a glove to block off the black ink at the damper and I cant pull cyan through the line, I can pull it at the damper, but when I put the syringe at the pump I get nothing. Could this be a simple clog? I get fluid when I push it through (membrane is intact, and the fluid comes through the correct side)

I really need this machine running I'm behind already...

 

[cheryld]

Ok so I'm back... new printhead works perfectly, now after replacing the fuses I cant seem to pull cyan.

I thought I had all the air out, but I'm only pulling black at the pump. I used a glove to block off the black ink at the damper and I cant pull cyan through the line, I can pull it at the damper, but when I put the syringe at the pump I get nothing. Could this be a simple clog? I get fluid when I push it through (membrane is intact, and the fluid comes through the correct side)

I really need this machine running I'm behind already...

What did you find your problem to be? I'm having problems with mine; changed the heads and cups. Still no ink. Getting an error message when i boot up in service >Cartridge > IC Check. I checked the little fuses and they appear to be good. I wondering if the Cartridge board could be bad. Any help would be great.