vinyl sticking to latex paint

[Raulrdz]

I have a couple of signs up for over a year now, used the Rustoleum Brand latex that says it can be used for metal or wood. Vinyl stuck with no issues, the signs have been up year round even weathered the southern exposure to a hurricane and still look good with no lifting on the paint or vinyl.

 

[Just Another Sign Guy]

in my experience i've had issues with vinyl adhering well to high gloss and flat some paint i have had adhesion problems immediately some it has taken a while...i have had no problems with semi gloss. i've had discussions with multiple chemists at mulitple paint manufacturing companies regarding this and my understanding is that the problem is due primarily to the sylicone in the paint and that there is different traits for semi gloss/ high gloss, etc. they gave me a very in depth explanation that went completely over my head ... i guess i should have paid some attention in high school chemistry instead of staring dumbfounded at my sexy lab partner

 

[OldPaint]

augasta yea say? hey yup another "rebel". after livin in "THE COUNTY" for a number a years, anyone south a ban-ger, are considered "rebels" and not real maine yankees))))))))))))))))
dont know if ya got the place to spray paint, but most MDO/ALUMICORE i paint, i do AUTOMOTIVE ACRYLIC ENAMEL. cost is bout the same as it would be for a expensive latex, but it drys faster, is more durable, and one its dry, you can STICK ANTHING TO IT, that you would stick on a vehicle!!!!!!!!!

 

[coyote]

We switched to all latex to coat out signs years ago and have had no trouble. Avoid flat and go with gloss or semi gloss exterior. Don't be cheap, get paint with high color content (avoid neutral base if possible). Latex doesn't chalk like 1-shot. Let it cure completely before applying vinyl. We had a customer supplied graphic that did not stick however, so we top coated with a waterborne clear acrylic under the graphic. Never use customer supplied material unless you can test it first and don't offer any guarantee.

Full disclosure: we use Avery A-6 vinyl and have had no problems at all. Coat out your panels with a good quality foam roller, or thin nap "enamel" paint roller, and go with thin coats rolling over a final time to eliminate stipple and bubbles.

Don't apply wet and go over with a heat gun on low or a hair dryer for the last burnish. When using mask, only use semi or high gloss, flat won't work at all. We used to do hand cut sign mask using Tuffbak (remember that?) and flat paint would allow huge bleed under the mask no matter how much we burnished.
C

 

[Jillbeans]

Also, it's nice to see there are other female sign painters out there in the world.

Sign chicks rock! Welcome to the sorority!
From a fellow Sister of the Brush.

 

[infinitesign]

augasta yea say? hey yup another "rebel". after livin in "THE COUNTY" for a number a years, anyone south a ban-ger, are considered "rebels" and not real maine yankees))))))))))))))))
dont know if ya got the place to spray paint, but most MDO/ALUMICORE i paint, i do AUTOMOTIVE ACRYLIC ENAMEL. cost is bout the same as it would be for a expensive latex, but it drys faster, is more durable, and one its dry, you can STICK ANTHING TO IT, that you would stick on a vehicle!!!!!!!!!

well, I want to ask if business is better in Florida than Maine? Please let me know. Thinking of moving from this repressed,depressed,upset, Im upset...... mmmm, area. Maybe not to Florida, but somewhere....

 

[wes70]

in my experience i've had issues with vinyl adhering well to high gloss and flat some paint i have had adhesion problems immediately some it has taken a while...i have had no problems with semi gloss. i've had discussions with multiple chemists at mulitple paint manufacturing companies regarding this and my understanding is that the problem is due primarily to the sylicone in the paint and that there is different traits for semi gloss/ high gloss, etc. they gave me a very in depth explanation that went completely over my head ... i guess i should have paid some attention in high school chemistry instead of staring dumbfounded at my sexy lab partner

Thanks Dan for this bit of info.

I've have always used latex semi-gloss and never had any issues with vinyl not adhearing. Last year I coated out a 4x8 mdo sign with Ben Moore latex gloss and vinyl would not stick at all. The BM paint had a greasy finish. I called the BM rep and he told me the paint had an "additive" in it to help with debris not sticking to it.

I wonder if this pertains to all brands of gloss latex or a select few?

 

[coyote]

I think additives are different for different manufacturers. We've stuck with Duron because we know what we are working with.

Latex outlasts oil based paint, hands down.
C

 

[OldPaint]

LATEX...is just plain more problems, with humidity and temps.
gota be just right or it does wierd stuff. one time i painted a sign with gloss latex, vinyl stuck fine....did it again different weather condition, and nothin worked.
personally iam more comfortable SPRAYIN AUTOMOTIVE A/ENAMEL.....never a screw up and drys in the florida sun, within 2 hours from sprayin i can APPLY VINYL.

well, I want to ask if business is better in Florida than Maine? Please let me know. Thinking of moving from this repressed,depressed,upset, Im upset...... mmmm, area. Maybe not to Florida, but somewhere....
WELL ,i can say this....it sure is a lot warmer then a "mooseyard" down here))))))
not much more for work either. similar industries here as MAINE...logging and paper mills!!!!!
i have no want to ever go back...

 

[Mike Paul]

I guess I'm the odd man out here. I still prefer 1Shot Lettering and Bulletin Enamel for backgrounds.

 

[Custom Bob]

I use Benjamin Moore Wood and Metal Latex and have had good luck.
I've rolled on enamels but they take forever to dry.
Most of the time I spray my MDO with epoxy primer and then spray on an automotive enamel paint with hardner. The sign has a automotive showroom finish that anything sticks to. By spraying you can do coloring blending and fades that make the signs look real sharp. The only time this isn't good is if your looking for a flat, rich or antique look.
If you can't spray the boards yourself or have the area in your shop to do it, try hooking up with a body shop that will work with you.

 

[Artgunner]

I guess I'm the odd man out here. I still prefer 1Shot Lettering and Bulletin Enamel for backgrounds.

That's all I ever used for 18 years as a billboard contractor. Glad those days are over. If cost is the factor... then contact manufacture. We use to deal direct and buy in bulk saving considerable money. Even started price wars at vendor level with the help of manufacture for small orders and singles. Imagine that!

Art

 

[wayne6251]

I'm with John. I usually use Behr Premium from Home Depot (only because HD is close by) and the gloss has something in it that feels slick when its dry. The satin, however, works great and looks great. I was never a big fan on super glossy enamel because the reflections in the finish seemed distracting to me.

If you have to use the glossy then I've had good results wiping the paint down with denatured alcohol then lettering. Can't think of any failures we've had either way.

my customer painted the side of a alum box truck with latex, will the denatured help here also with vinyl not sticking, thanks Jerry JB Signs

 

[BigfishDM]

Wow this is the thread that keeps on giving, 8 years ago and we still bring it up all the time.

 

[d fleming]

Wow this is the thread that keeps on giving, 8 years ago and we still bring it up all the time.

We??

 

[ddarlak]

i clicked on it and did a double take when i saw shovelhead.... back from the grave...

RIP

 

[Billct2]

i clicked on it and did a double take when i saw shovelhead.... back from the grave...

RIP

Yea, I looked at the member list and he's still in the top ten of posters! He was a great member here.

and oh yea, vinyl doesn't like a lot of latexes