We have a Roland LEJ-640ft and we are going to be doing some 48" x 65" prints on 1/2 acrylic second surface and we need to flood the back of the prints with white. Instead of flooding the print with white ink which will take up printer time and cost more in ink we were thinking of just painting on a couple coats of white. Does anyone know what would be the best product to use and would we need an adhesion promoter and if so what adhesion promoter? My background is in automotive painting, but the solvent based paints would probably destroy the print?
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White flood coat help
- Thread starter Kustom X
- Start date
SignMeUpGraphics
Super Active Member
Do you have anything against just backing it up with white vinyl?
Far easier and much less chance of destroying the first print.
Far easier and much less chance of destroying the first print.
Martin Denton
New Member
back it out in white vinyl, as said previously, little washing up liquid to your water and it will go down nice and smoothly with a far better finish than you will get from paint...
I'd be nervous about placing a dissimilar product over an ink of which you have the ability to coat with the same ink. Why did you buy a printer with white ink capability if not to use it when needed?
We do a fair amount of second surface graphics on clear acrylic and print them in reverse on our Roland solvent printer on clear cast vinyl and then back them up with white high performance vinyl. Seems to work really well for us.
We do a fair amount of second surface graphics on clear acrylic and print them in reverse on our Roland solvent printer on clear cast vinyl and then back them up with white high performance vinyl. Seems to work really well for us.
Grizzly
It’s all about your print!
I'd do it one of three ways. 1. Print direct and then back with white vinyl on a laminator. I wouldn't do it by hand, unless you don't have that option. 2. Print on clear vinyl as Tim said and apply to acrylic with laminator. 1/2" Acrylic is expensive and if something happens midway through the print when direct printing your toast. White can be troublesome sometimes. Clear vinyl is a lot less expensive. Also, 1/2" acrylic isn't always the flattest material, so you have to slow it down or print unidirectional to compensate. 3. Reverse print and flood print with white and just hope that everything works like it should. Good Luck! If they were smaller prints, direct print with white ink. Since they're larger, I'd print on clear vinyl and apply to the acrylic.
I want to thank everyone for their replies.
SignMeUpGraphics & Martin Denton - We had several options on the table. Print white, back it with vinyl, and paint white. The graphic is going to be seen from the back side also because of its location. We were thinking that the vinyl would possibly look cheap from the backside, but may be our best option. just worried about getting some dirt or dust while applying the vinyl. Even though we are in a controlled environment there is always that chance.
Tim Toad - We back with white a lot and would be the easiest because you can press print and let it go, but printing white with the opacity we want with the size of the print it would take roughly 180 min on standard quality just to print the white flood coats, put that with the CMYK and we are looking at about 231 min per graphic that is a lot of the printer time used up. Plus when you think of ink costing $0.41cc which is the equivalent to $1552/gallon or I could by a gallon of white for $100 that would last me a very long time. Printing on clear and backing with white is a good idea. Thanks
Grizzly - I would definitely flood print white if they were smaller and we do have a laminator. I going to give both options of backing with white and the clear vinyl techniques a try.
I want to thank everyone again and I am always up for new suggestions.
SignMeUpGraphics & Martin Denton - We had several options on the table. Print white, back it with vinyl, and paint white. The graphic is going to be seen from the back side also because of its location. We were thinking that the vinyl would possibly look cheap from the backside, but may be our best option. just worried about getting some dirt or dust while applying the vinyl. Even though we are in a controlled environment there is always that chance.
Tim Toad - We back with white a lot and would be the easiest because you can press print and let it go, but printing white with the opacity we want with the size of the print it would take roughly 180 min on standard quality just to print the white flood coats, put that with the CMYK and we are looking at about 231 min per graphic that is a lot of the printer time used up. Plus when you think of ink costing $0.41cc which is the equivalent to $1552/gallon or I could by a gallon of white for $100 that would last me a very long time. Printing on clear and backing with white is a good idea. Thanks
Grizzly - I would definitely flood print white if they were smaller and we do have a laminator. I going to give both options of backing with white and the clear vinyl techniques a try.
I want to thank everyone again and I am always up for new suggestions.