White Ink - OEM vs Lipla vs Nazdar

[D3D]

I understand white ink is always the most problematic but are any of these clear winners when it comes to reducing nozzle clogs on an ongoing basis? We are running a Arizona 2280 and using Lipla for the white currently and have been given the expectation that it should be the least prone to clogging of the options mentioned but its a daily struggle to get a good nozzle check on the whites.

 

[Pauly]

We have issues with white all the time on our AZ.
Lipla is suppose to be good. Cannot speak about Nazdar.

 

[Superior_Adam]

Nazdar makes ink for a lot of printer companies using their ingredients.

 

[petepaz]

white ink whether solvent or UV needs to be shaken daily and if not used you need to run the ink to keep the head firing properly. i actually created a white box approx 4" x the length of whatever material is loaded in the printer that i run every 3-5 days of non-use on the white ink. this helps keep everything running properly. we have used nadar aftermarket ink in our roland printers (uv and eco-solv) with no issues. nazdar gives you a warranty with the inks (i forget the exact perimeters of the warranty but they are pretty good) also ink is what nazdar does. we have been using their inks for silk screening for over 40yrs and now over the past 10 yrs or so they have been making digital printer inks.
if you are going to use an aftermarket ink makes sense to get it from a company that specializes in ink

 

[D3D]

The Lipla bulk tank for white includes a stirring mechanism, and we use white with every job since we are printing on clear plastic + we are meticulous about head cleaning. Nazdar's experience does make them a logical next step if we move on. I would probably pour the ink from the bag into our stir bottle and cut out the RFID, which is what I would do if I was going to use OEM too.

 

[Jessica S]

What formula of white are you using on your AZ? 256/257
only bc the 257 has a better adhesion than 256's and under.
also with the AZ's ppl tend to forget to purge the air filters. makes a enormous difference!
(over10yrs w/AZ's)

 

[D3D]

We are the second owner of the machine and never ran OEM white in the machine, only LIPLA. We are using 257 for our color inks. I have grown accustomed to bleeding the air from the filters and it does help but we still have problems like most people.

 

[D3D]

For the record I am not saying anything negative toward lipla white ink, I don't have the experience to compare it to anything at this point and I know white is a problem across the board. Happy to report back if I change though.

 

[chinaski]

white ink whether solvent or UV needs to be shaken daily and if not used you need to run the ink to keep the head firing properly. i actually created a white box approx 4" x the length of whatever material is loaded in the printer that i run every 3-5 days of non-use on the white ink. this helps keep everything running properly. we have used nadar aftermarket ink in our roland printers (uv and eco-solv) with no issues. nazdar gives you a warranty with the inks (i forget the exact perimeters of the warranty but they are pretty good) also ink is what nazdar does. we have been using their inks for silk screening for over 40yrs and now over the past 10 yrs or so they have been making digital printer inks.
if you are going to use an aftermarket ink makes sense to get it from a company that specializes in ink

I'd 2nd this. Purging white doesn't always bring full nozzles back but if I print a white swatch I've got a better chance of getting full nozzles recovered than I would just purging. I use #6 droplet in express mode and do two rounds and that almost always does the trick.

If white isn't printing well, in the middle of printing you can also pause for 20 seconds or so and that will bring a lot of nozzles back as well. Useful if you're flooding white ink and it doesn't need to be perfect but still want good coverage and can't be bothered to purge the white ink.