why is laminating such a PAIN :frustrated:

[pixel_pusher]

We have a Roland VP-540 w/ take-up reel and a Royal Sovereign laminator with heat assisted upper roll. I love the Roland, and have little trouble with it, and I use the big squegee for all of my mounting work, but I just cannot find a good workflow for lamination if the piece is any larger than a poster.

First of all, it's very difficult to change laminate media for different jobs. The whole process of webbing the machine every time seems over-complicated and counter-intuitive. Plus, I find it very difficult to laminate large work like wraps and trade show graphics without having someone on the other end catching the print and either rolling it up or feeding it onto a work table. I've tried laminating wraps by individual tiles and several tiles on a 20' long roll, and I can't decide which I hate more. Moving all these large pieces around the shop is very cumbersome and finding a hair or other detritus under the film is not fun at all.

It just feels like there must be a more efficient way to do this, but I can't figure it out. What is your typical lamination workflow? Is there any good video or on-site training out there for this?

sorry for the long post. I guess I needed to vent.

 

[cgsigns_jamie]

I have the same laminator and I actually like it a lot.
Are you using the craft paper when your laminating? I find it's nearly impossible to laminate with out the craft paper.

 

[pixel_pusher]

I guess the laminator is OK, but I'm having trouble finding a routine. The craft paper is an absolute must, even if it wrinkles all the time.

 

[omgsideburns]

if you're getting wrinkles it sounds like you're loading your kraft/lam wrong.. or not loading your vinyl evenly when you begin to lam..

 

[pixel_pusher]

the craft paper wrinkles, but the print and lam are fine. No amount of tension adjustment has corrected that, and since it does no damage, I leave it alone. I load the laminate by using a media box flap as a sled to make sure it feeds in straight.

 

[Bigdawg]

Well... I differ here. I have the same setup as you and I cannot for the life of me, laminate anything using craft paper. Guaranteed to screw up the job for me.

I don't use the heat assist at all. And I run everything (including big ole 20'-30' rolls) through from the top... generally the only assistance I have is my flip-flop up against the back of the roll to keep it from unrolling (yeah - a real technical piece of equipment LOL).

Then I roll from the other side as it comes out if the piece is long enough... if not then I just let it drop as it goes through.

As far as threading it up... shouldn't give you that much grief, but the cast lams are a bit of a pain (like working with saran wrap). Just make sure you have a straight edge and it will help a lot.

 

[Graphics2u]

I almost NEVER use kraft paper! I have found that if I'm printing on 30" I use 30" lam or 54" I use 54" lam. If you have a straight edge on your print and start it straight it seems to work fine for me. I don't have the same laminator, but that shouldn't make alot of difference on the actual process. I can run 20' to 40' through as long as it's started straight.

Just let the finished product roll out on to the flor (make sure the floor is clean) and it will make a nice little pile that you can roll up from the back side when finished.

 

[Bigdawg]

Good point Graphics2u... lam size should match print size... always! Eliminates the whole need for craft paper...

 

[Graphics2u]

I think really it is all in finding what works for you personally. I've watched the videos from the manufacturer on how to operate my laminator, and I know i would have problems doing it the way they show.

 

[pixel_pusher]

it seems like you're asking for trouble running the same lam and print size with no craft paper. If your alignment is not NASA perfect, you would have some major overlap after 20 or 30 feet of media are fed through. Wouldn't that leave lots of residue on the rollers and cause the print to get crooked way faster?

 

[Bigdawg]

I've run with an inch hanging over without a problem... it's all in how you load it... load it straight and it's a thing of beauty

If you overlap, just pull the print up a little as it goes through... I run mine full out at top speed so it doesn't get much of a chance to catch.

EDITED TO ADD: In between posts I just ran a 24' run through using the method above... had maybe 1/4" overlap at the end which was no big deal...

.

 

[Graphics2u]

it seems like you're asking for trouble running the same lam and print size with no craft paper. If your alignment is not NASA perfect, you would have some major overlap after 20 or 30 feet of media are fed through. Wouldn't that leave lots of residue on the rollers and cause the print to get crooked way faster?

That's why you work at getting it started straight. I've found a way that is very comfortable for me, it might not be for you. Normally you don't print things that are 20' long non stop. Leave 5-6" between prints and if it starts getting too crooked cut it at one of those spaces and start it again. Your laminator has silicone rollers so the adhesive doesn't stick to them. if you have 2-3 " of overlap then you might have a problem with it sticking to the out feed side of laminator.

 

[m.hafenbrack]

We got the same laminator and used to have all sorts of trouble with it when I first started using it. To me it just takes practice like anything else, you'll get the hang of it.

I do agree that its a pain changing the rolls though.

 

[k.a.s.]

I have a seal and use no craft paper, never have, seems like a pain to me. I just use the same size vinyl & lam. My biggest complaint is changing the lam, it's a pain what really makes me mad is how much lam I waste doing it. I try to plan so I don't have to change very often.

Kevin

 

[Gene@mpls]

I have a 55" RS- no heat. Have never used kraft paper either- same size
vinyl/lam- I try to run 3-4- 8 foot sections at a time and almost never have
to cut sections apart to straighten.

Here is how i have always webbed rolls- see pict. This is the procedure to
web a new roll- once it is started, you just cut the backing paper and pull
the scrap piece out with the roll and you use that to reinsert the roll the
next time. It works a treat. I did not spend too much time putting this
visual together- hope you can figure it out. Gene

 

[pixel_pusher]

great tips, guys. I'd love to ditch the craft paper.
Gene, I'll have to try webbing like that next time.

 

[anotherdog]

I have the same setup only without the heated roller (I suck extra strong mints when I lam). I have just spent the whole morning laminating and while I hate doing it, but nothing went wrong today.
The only place where it can really go wrong (for me) is in the setup and initial feed. I try to rush or I feed a job in unevenly it will try to wrinkle. If I do that right it's smooth all the way.

I also have a coroplast "bridge" running to the main production table so it feeds out onto the table so laminating is a one man job.

I have also just begun to use the Big Squeegee for any job smaller than 54 inch, and it does a decent enough job so I almost never have to take lam off the Royal to use the rollers for mounting.

That said, there are EVIL lams out there. I have a whiteboard lam that loves to wrinkle. When I feed that I have to keep one hand on the lam feed roller for extra tension.

oh and I have never used craft paper with the laminator either.

 

[Former member]

Here's the trick... ( i have the exact same setup but no heat) Take the rolled prints from the take up system straight to the laminator. Leave the print on the roll and feed it through. I have laminated well over 100 linear feet without a problem.

 

[ZacCarter]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hb1uUXHy6lA

 

[cgsigns_jamie]

Well I just found this video for our laminator on YouTube and after watching it I can finally see how to use the machine without the craft paper

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bvc96adEVyI