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yeah magnetic sign/display material is the latest craze but it's not cheap so not a lot of people go with it. we actually silk screen a job that has magnetic receptive particals in the ink, specialty ink, very expensive but we screen the blank sheets with some design on top and then the customer...

not sure translucent will let in as much light as you would think but no the opaque vinyl will let less light through but it will also help block out some of the reverse side graphics. it's not 100% like a block out material but better than translucent

the Prahl family holds 6 spots and two of them multi year so it's in the genes

i mount them together, not two installs. print the mirror image on the clear then mount the white printed decal to the clear decal so it's one decal and one install. also don't use translucent white. use a regular calendared or cast vinyl with a clear adhesive.

we use the orajet HT as well, it's for a customer that puts the labels on a molded plastic case (low surface energy plastic) knock wood haven't had any issues. i you sure nothing changed in the powder coat? maybe there is some new additive that is causing the adhesive to peel. HT usually sticks...

print one side on the clear vinyl, mirrored image so when they stick it to the glass you can read it from the outside. then print the other image on white vinyl and mount that to the clear vinyl and trim accordingly. presto-change-o..... you have a two way decal

i am aware but if a customer comes to me with a larger size like that i will try to talk them in to a size we can do in one piece before i go with the seams but if not then we seam it. i do agree there are better options than wood that will last longer

R-tape vinylEfx has some good options also you can try american traffic safety materials, inc they have a bunch of options for different materials

any chance of talking them in to a 10' x 5' sign then you could get aluminum composite in one piece other wise what visual800 said

we had one of the original truvis VG eco-sol printers and it was a piece of sh$# (long story but went like 2 years we couldn't use it) we traded it in for a mimaki. then in january we bought the UV version and it does waste a lot of ink. i probably dump the waste once a week where my roland XR...

look at EFI but i would say you want to stay with a true flatbed not a belt driven/friction fed printer. rigid sheets/blanks can get skewed real easy

i don't remember the name of the site but there are a couple that let you just buy a single template with out the subscription. (i am sure you can google vehicle templates) side note just go out and take pics of it and measure it then make your own template. that's how i do it. i go take a pic...

we have a couple of these. they work well and aren't hard to use. we have men, women, small and large all use it with no problem

i trim banners with scissors. longest was about 15ft but i don't see a problem on a 33footer other than it will take longer. i would try to do it on a long table if possible as apposed to on the floor. roll it up start on one end and roll that end up as you go along. one end will be unrolling...

we do a lot of military nameplates that need to get a specific spray coating, whether it's matte or gloss but we specify that as a clear coat like everyone else here has said and if we use a vinyl or polyester laminate we say laminate or lamination. can't remember ever having any issues with...

hulk smash your QR code

not really a dumb question because depending on the lighting it might distort the image that your phone is reading so it could effect whether it works or not. i guess you will be our experiment..haha

i haven't tried on our mimaki yet but we printed on static cling with our roland printers for years. the eco-solvent can be tricky sometimes due to static and or head strikes because the heat causes it to wrinkle. raise the print head and maybe mess around with your heat temp. the best results...

we generally don't laminate UV prints but we do have some occasions where it is necessary. you should try to find a specific UV lam if possible, it will conform to the uv ink better. we generally print on polyester/mylar so we use a polyester/mylar laminate. but they do have specific vinyl...

all depends on what your idea of cheap is...haha but if you get a polyester chrome materials it's cheaper than the r-tape versions. polymet brilliant metalized polyester film is one